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  1. drop the bars down and move the hoods back up to where you want, only thing is you will need to rewrap your bars

  2. Old_graveldoggo on

    Obviously, You have to rotate handlebars forwards/downwards and just raise the hoods on the bars back to comfortable appropriate position. 
    It will not work one without another.

  3. Isaid_biiiiitch on

    As a general rule of thumb the bar ends should be perpendicular to the ground, so those need to be rotated quite a bit. You’ll have to reposition the shifters after you rotate the bars so the controls are still within reach

  4. Most would set the bar so the forward portion is parallel to the ground and the brake levers vertical.

    In this situation, if you loosen your face plate and rotate the bars down, you’ll accomplish both.

  5. No, the bar is rotated very significantly too high. What you want is something like this: [https://imgur.com/a/W1kPd4O](https://imgur.com/a/W1kPd4O)

    So so the top of the bar close to horizontal, and the ends of the bar pointing slightly below horizontal. In rim brake bikes, the old rule of thumb was to point the ends of the bar at the rear brake.

  6. Set the bars where you want the drops then position the shifters where they feel comfortable. I like the end of the drops to be more or less parallel with the ground, but that can change slightly depending on the exact profile of the bars. Either way, looks like a redo in my book.

  7. Not even close.

    – set the bar to a point when the angle of the drops and ramps feels good (traditionally from level to pointed towards the rear hub)
    – move the levers to a point where the transition from the ramp section of the bar to the shifter feels smooth and the hoods position is comfortable with a neutral wrist.
    – adjust overall reach by changing the stem as needed.

  8. I generally try to keep the hoods and the top of the bar as close to aligned as possible and if possible and try to make the drops close to parallel to the ground.

    Its all about comfort but generally you don’t want to have your wrist tweaked when in the hoods.

  9. Nope. The bottom of the bars should be more or less parallel with the ground, as well as the tops of the hoods.

  10. Acrobatic_Salad_8705 on

    So basically the higher the hoods the more comfy it is and vice versa.

    But still you have to reposition the hoods so that it matches the handle level

  11. bigredbicycles on

    The issue is how the bar ends are not perpendicular to the ground, this makes the reach longer and less reliable (as you have to grip the bars instead of just letting your weight sit on them).

  12. Boxofbikeparts on

    For myself, no this would be terrible. Maybe it feels comfortable to you.

    Maybe you’re only an occasional cyclist that likes to sit upright? I’ve seen far stranger handlebar setups, including the DUI bars that I see riding around town in the summer.

  13. Grab your favorite bar tape, rotate the bars down where they should be and then reposition the hoods and retape.

  14. Rippin_Fat_Farts on

    Nah it’s way off. Drops should be parallel to ground. You’ll have to remove the tape and bring the brifters up the bar to a comfortable position.

    Take it for a ride to check for comfort before re taping the bars. Adjust the brifters up toward you as needed.

  15. Able_Youth_6400 on

    I’d vote that the hoods are decent but the bars need to be rotated down by about 20 degrees. (So the hoods would need to come back up)

  16. JeremyFromKenosha on

    Lots of people are trying to guide you, but not saying it right.

    The drops (bottoms) of the bar should be about a parallel to the ground. (not perpindicular) Simply rotating the bar in its clamp can do this, but then the brakes will be too far down the curve to be comfortable.

    You need to:

    1. Unwrap the bar
    2. loose the clamp bolts on the bar
    3. Rotate the bar so the drops are about parallel to the ground
    4. Loosen the clamp bolt for the brakes
    5. Slide them up to a comfortable position on the bar
    6. Re-wrap the bar

    I think we’re all guilty at some point of just rotating the bar to get the hoods of the brakes in a comfortable position and forgetting about the angle of the drops. (since we don’t spend a lot of time down there)

  17. Levers are too low on the bar, and the bar is tilted too far up IMO. Unwrap the bars, move the levers up, adjust bar rotation. Then wrap the bars up again. Good excuse to get some snazzy bar tape.

  18. Are you chasing some height with them rotated so high, I had them like this on my first gravel conversion, but now I know the bike was too long and too low stack…

  19. Top of the bars needs to be parallel to the ground, not tilted. Then adjust the brifters (move them up) until comfortable.

  20. Nope. Entirely wrong.

    With a very little bit of wiggle room for personal preference, the drops should be mostly p pararell to the ground. And again with a very little (maybe 2.5° ish) wiggle room, hoods should be close to parallel.

    These are not anywhere near close even accounting for preference.

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