drop the bars down and move the hoods back up to where you want, only thing is you will need to rewrap your bars
[deleted] on
[deleted]
Old_graveldoggo on
Obviously, You have to rotate handlebars forwards/downwards and just raise the hoods on the bars back to comfortable appropriate position.
It will not work one without another.
Isaid_biiiiitch on
As a general rule of thumb the bar ends should be perpendicular to the ground, so those need to be rotated quite a bit. You’ll have to reposition the shifters after you rotate the bars so the controls are still within reach
Moorbert on
no. this need a redo
Sandvik95 on
Most would set the bar so the forward portion is parallel to the ground and the brake levers vertical.
In this situation, if you loosen your face plate and rotate the bars down, you’ll accomplish both.
Might just be the angle of the photo, but is the left shifter more turned in than the right?
Antti5 on
No, the bar is rotated very significantly too high. What you want is something like this: [https://imgur.com/a/W1kPd4O](https://imgur.com/a/W1kPd4O)
So so the top of the bar close to horizontal, and the ends of the bar pointing slightly below horizontal. In rim brake bikes, the old rule of thumb was to point the ends of the bar at the rear brake.
otismcotis on
Set the bars where you want the drops then position the shifters where they feel comfortable. I like the end of the drops to be more or less parallel with the ground, but that can change slightly depending on the exact profile of the bars. Either way, looks like a redo in my book.
double___a on
Not even close.
– set the bar to a point when the angle of the drops and ramps feels good (traditionally from level to pointed towards the rear hub)
– move the levers to a point where the transition from the ramp section of the bar to the shifter feels smooth and the hoods position is comfortable with a neutral wrist.
– adjust overall reach by changing the stem as needed.
austinmiles on
I generally try to keep the hoods and the top of the bar as close to aligned as possible and if possible and try to make the drops close to parallel to the ground.
Its all about comfort but generally you don’t want to have your wrist tweaked when in the hoods.
Candid-Parsley3009 on
If it’s comfy, yes, perfect. Aesthetics < Comfort.
miklayn on
Nope. The bottom of the bars should be more or less parallel with the ground, as well as the tops of the hoods.
Acrobatic_Salad_8705 on
So basically the higher the hoods the more comfy it is and vice versa.
But still you have to reposition the hoods so that it matches the handle level
Visible-Grass-8805 on
😱 who did this? 🤣
bigredbicycles on
The issue is how the bar ends are not perpendicular to the ground, this makes the reach longer and less reliable (as you have to grip the bars instead of just letting your weight sit on them).
Financial-Link-8699 on
Drops close to horizontal to the road
Boxofbikeparts on
For myself, no this would be terrible. Maybe it feels comfortable to you.
Maybe you’re only an occasional cyclist that likes to sit upright? I’ve seen far stranger handlebar setups, including the DUI bars that I see riding around town in the summer.
TheWitness37 on
Grab your favorite bar tape, rotate the bars down where they should be and then reposition the hoods and retape.
Lost-Emu-990 on
Does it make a difference that the handlebars are flared?
Rippin_Fat_Farts on
Nah it’s way off. Drops should be parallel to ground. You’ll have to remove the tape and bring the brifters up the bar to a comfortable position.
Take it for a ride to check for comfort before re taping the bars. Adjust the brifters up toward you as needed.
Able_Youth_6400 on
I’d vote that the hoods are decent but the bars need to be rotated down by about 20 degrees. (So the hoods would need to come back up)
28Loki on
No
JeremyFromKenosha on
Lots of people are trying to guide you, but not saying it right.
The drops (bottoms) of the bar should be about a parallel to the ground. (not perpindicular) Simply rotating the bar in its clamp can do this, but then the brakes will be too far down the curve to be comfortable.
You need to:
1. Unwrap the bar
2. loose the clamp bolts on the bar
3. Rotate the bar so the drops are about parallel to the ground
4. Loosen the clamp bolt for the brakes
5. Slide them up to a comfortable position on the bar
6. Re-wrap the bar
I think we’re all guilty at some point of just rotating the bar to get the hoods of the brakes in a comfortable position and forgetting about the angle of the drops. (since we don’t spend a lot of time down there)
BD59 on
Levers are too low on the bar, and the bar is tilted too far up IMO. Unwrap the bars, move the levers up, adjust bar rotation. Then wrap the bars up again. Good excuse to get some snazzy bar tape.
oldbox on
Are you chasing some height with them rotated so high, I had them like this on my first gravel conversion, but now I know the bike was too long and too low stack…
widowhanzo on
Top of the bars needs to be parallel to the ground, not tilted. Then adjust the brifters (move them up) until comfortable.
_MountainFit on
Nope. Entirely wrong.
With a very little bit of wiggle room for personal preference, the drops should be mostly p pararell to the ground. And again with a very little (maybe 2.5° ish) wiggle room, hoods should be close to parallel.
These are not anywhere near close even accounting for preference.
29 Comments
drop the bars down and move the hoods back up to where you want, only thing is you will need to rewrap your bars
[deleted]
Obviously, You have to rotate handlebars forwards/downwards and just raise the hoods on the bars back to comfortable appropriate position.
It will not work one without another.
As a general rule of thumb the bar ends should be perpendicular to the ground, so those need to be rotated quite a bit. You’ll have to reposition the shifters after you rotate the bars so the controls are still within reach
no. this need a redo
Most would set the bar so the forward portion is parallel to the ground and the brake levers vertical.
In this situation, if you loosen your face plate and rotate the bars down, you’ll accomplish both.
Rotate the bars down, and then move the hoods up. You might be able to do it without unwrapping your bar tape. This [video](https://youtu.be/WjD4g3l3A54?si=-K8VCHJWn1zr93_C) explains it well
Might just be the angle of the photo, but is the left shifter more turned in than the right?
No, the bar is rotated very significantly too high. What you want is something like this: [https://imgur.com/a/W1kPd4O](https://imgur.com/a/W1kPd4O)
So so the top of the bar close to horizontal, and the ends of the bar pointing slightly below horizontal. In rim brake bikes, the old rule of thumb was to point the ends of the bar at the rear brake.
Set the bars where you want the drops then position the shifters where they feel comfortable. I like the end of the drops to be more or less parallel with the ground, but that can change slightly depending on the exact profile of the bars. Either way, looks like a redo in my book.
Not even close.
– set the bar to a point when the angle of the drops and ramps feels good (traditionally from level to pointed towards the rear hub)
– move the levers to a point where the transition from the ramp section of the bar to the shifter feels smooth and the hoods position is comfortable with a neutral wrist.
– adjust overall reach by changing the stem as needed.
I generally try to keep the hoods and the top of the bar as close to aligned as possible and if possible and try to make the drops close to parallel to the ground.
Its all about comfort but generally you don’t want to have your wrist tweaked when in the hoods.
If it’s comfy, yes, perfect. Aesthetics < Comfort.
Nope. The bottom of the bars should be more or less parallel with the ground, as well as the tops of the hoods.
So basically the higher the hoods the more comfy it is and vice versa.
But still you have to reposition the hoods so that it matches the handle level
😱 who did this? 🤣
The issue is how the bar ends are not perpendicular to the ground, this makes the reach longer and less reliable (as you have to grip the bars instead of just letting your weight sit on them).
Drops close to horizontal to the road
For myself, no this would be terrible. Maybe it feels comfortable to you.
Maybe you’re only an occasional cyclist that likes to sit upright? I’ve seen far stranger handlebar setups, including the DUI bars that I see riding around town in the summer.
Grab your favorite bar tape, rotate the bars down where they should be and then reposition the hoods and retape.
Does it make a difference that the handlebars are flared?
Nah it’s way off. Drops should be parallel to ground. You’ll have to remove the tape and bring the brifters up the bar to a comfortable position.
Take it for a ride to check for comfort before re taping the bars. Adjust the brifters up toward you as needed.
I’d vote that the hoods are decent but the bars need to be rotated down by about 20 degrees. (So the hoods would need to come back up)
No
Lots of people are trying to guide you, but not saying it right.
The drops (bottoms) of the bar should be about a parallel to the ground. (not perpindicular) Simply rotating the bar in its clamp can do this, but then the brakes will be too far down the curve to be comfortable.
You need to:
1. Unwrap the bar
2. loose the clamp bolts on the bar
3. Rotate the bar so the drops are about parallel to the ground
4. Loosen the clamp bolt for the brakes
5. Slide them up to a comfortable position on the bar
6. Re-wrap the bar
I think we’re all guilty at some point of just rotating the bar to get the hoods of the brakes in a comfortable position and forgetting about the angle of the drops. (since we don’t spend a lot of time down there)
Levers are too low on the bar, and the bar is tilted too far up IMO. Unwrap the bars, move the levers up, adjust bar rotation. Then wrap the bars up again. Good excuse to get some snazzy bar tape.
Are you chasing some height with them rotated so high, I had them like this on my first gravel conversion, but now I know the bike was too long and too low stack…
Top of the bars needs to be parallel to the ground, not tilted. Then adjust the brifters (move them up) until comfortable.
Nope. Entirely wrong.
With a very little bit of wiggle room for personal preference, the drops should be mostly p pararell to the ground. And again with a very little (maybe 2.5° ish) wiggle room, hoods should be close to parallel.
These are not anywhere near close even accounting for preference.