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  1. If you are positive the internal part that pushes against the bottom bracket is making contact and not hitting the edges of square part of your crank arm more pressure + heat + penetrating fluid is the best bet. If it is contacting the crank arm before hitting the bottom bracket because the diameter is too big then likely a new tool is needed.

  2. Those park all in one crank pullers are hard to use since you can’t adjust the angle of the handle once you’re ready to start pushing off of the bottom bracket. One with a hex on the end like CWP-7 allows you to put a longer tool on for more leverage as well as orienting the tool.

    For now, the blue handle one is your tool and you need more force.

  3. CCP-2 should be the tool. Just looks like a standard square tapered BB. So more pressure. For difficult to remove ones I’ll align the tool handle with the crank. Then standing/sitting behind the crank I’ll pull the tool handle towards me while simultaneously pushing the crank arm away from me. Sometimes I have to stand above the crank arm and have it clocked at about 8 o’clock then the same push/pull on crank arm and tool handle.

  4. Ancient-Snow1349 on

    Should the little spindle thing at the end of the tool be connecting with the silver round part of the bike or the black square part?

  5. Squideleespooch on

    The CCP-2 is the one you need for a square-taper bottom bracket. Be careful threading it into the crank, make sure it threads straight, as you can strip the crank threads. You may need to use an additional tool, such as a pipe, or the like, to add additional leverage on the CCP-2; their handle can often be too short to provide the necessary leverage. Hold the crank with one hand, while simultaneously pulling the CCP-2’s handle. You can also put the bike on the ground and have another person hold the bike for stability. Pro recommendation: wear leather gloves in case you slip; to avoid smashing a knuckle (ask me how I learned this).

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