Just wanted to check before I do anything. I plan on stripping and then waxing this new chain. Is that correct? Or unnecessary?
by BrightonsBestish
Just wanted to check before I do anything. I plan on stripping and then waxing this new chain. Is that correct? Or unnecessary?
by BrightonsBestish
19 Comments
Strip, then when you think its clean…..do it all over again. Then wax
Hopefully someone else can confirm, but I am suspicious about the packaging, meaning your chain is possibly fake
i just wipe off excess on the exterior of the chain with a rag/towel slightly damped with isopropyl alcohol.
Wait, what? Are you planning to hot wax it and ride a waxed system? Or are you planning to use a chain oiled system?
No blue tick, its printed black probably fake. Where did you buy it?
And yeah strip clean in solvent turpentine’paint thiner’ like 3 or 4 times. rinse in isopropyl alcohol. dry completely hairdryer helps, then wax it
I’ve used the silca strip chip a couple times with good results.
A brand new chain is lubed better than you’ll ever be able to do yourself. I always wipe the outside down and run it for as long as it stays silent, usually a couple weeks. Be sure to wipe it down after each ride in the mean time and then degrease properly once you want to wax it.
I only buy chains at a bike shop now because Amazon is full of fakes
I use simple green aircraft and an ultrasonic cleaner. Not necessary but the simple green aircraft works well. I then alcohol bath it, let it dry and into the wax.
Install the chain, go one full revolution spraying a liberal amount of dry/wet lube, run it through a clean shop rag another few revolutions, you’re GTG.
Hipsters with solvents and wax. Lol
Seeing all the advice here is interesting. My local bike mechanic says that the factory lube is better than anything you can buy. Not saying she’s right but I’ve been following her advice to no detriment.
Yes. You can get those pre-waxed, but if it has that default lube on it, you need to strip that off or the wax won’t work.
Zero p
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Yes. I soak them in mineral spirits overnight and that removes it pretty well. If I were waxing I would probably give it a second soak in clean mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol.
Looks like a fake chain…
11s is too narrow for 9s…if my memory is correct, even for 10s. It should not say 9s and 10s compatible.
The check-mark to indicate the number of lengths SHOULD NOT be printed; it should be HAND marked with a sharpie/pen. Also check the barcode on the back – the barcode SHOULD be a sticker, and NOT printed directly onto the box.
I’ve only seen a couple replies mentioning how to strip the grease from the chain hoping to find the answer as well. Color me surprised.
Damn they got fake 11s hollow pins now?
Since this has turned into a counterfeit chain post, everyone can rest assured: I am returning the chain, and have already ordered a new one.
Ali Express had a pretty screamin’ deal…
If you’re going that route, it’s more than just stripping and waxing. You got to get the whole package. You need to strip and degrease thoroughly your chainring cassette and the derailer pulleys. Any oil lube will degrade the wax. I’ve done it and it’s a big job you need a degreaser scrubbers 100% isopropic alcohol and boiling water. Basically you’re stripping everything down to bare metal. I even took my cassette apart because it’s hard to get into the nook and crannies of the cassette teeth. Then you’re going to need to get the drip wax because after bad weather rides from time to time you’ll need to top it off with drip wax. Then you’ll need to buy all the proper bike cleaning products that silica offers because the traditional bike cleaning products and degreasers degrade and break down the wax. That’s something they don’t tell you or advertise on YouTube. Anyhow since I got the wax chain I’ve been setting PRS and I love everything about the setup. Just once in awhile you’ll still need to use lube to put in your derailer pivots and pulley wheel pivots while being careful not to get anything on the drivetrain. Good luck.