So many knobs, so little grip. You may have the wrong tires on your bike.
Yes, I’m sponsored by Michelin. No, I don’t want this video to be about pushing Michelin tires, which is why I’m only including my tire preferences here in the video description.
My personal tire preferences for MY home trails:
Front – Michelin Wild Enduro Racing Line MH
Rear – Michelin Wild Enduro Racing Line Rear
They have super supportive casings/sidewalls, they’re designed to not need tire inserts and they have just the right amount of tread for my local rides.
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37 Comments
I use slicks on the down hill I want 100% of my tire doing the grip.
I’ve entered so many giveaways, and without a good household income I’ve been trying to save up on my own. I even started my own shoveling snow and summer detailing business. But with all that being said, I entered my first e-bike giveaway hoping for the best, but obviously didn’t come out on top. I’m 15 in Chicago, Illinois, and it’s starting to get warmer. I really hope I can win this time so I can have a bike before summer and warmer weather really starts. Also, TheLoamRanger, thank you for being one of the YouTubers who actually gives back. I honestly don’t think you get enough credit for what you do.
2.4" + dh casing on all my bikes. Its pretty simple!
In Florida the Maxxis Rekon does very very well
Im not Steve.
I think tire durability is a factor that is missing for me here. I go with these super heavy tires for No other reason then that they last a lot longer. When I tried a faster rolling rear tire it punctured on my first lap. Choosing something durable that doesnt hinder you is from a Money and time perspective what most people should go for IMO. The Video Misses that point a little. Anywho thanks for the great work 😊
If your trails are moondust over hard(think southern Sierras and deserts south of it), would that be soft knobbs or hard knobbs?
100% correct
Interesting. 23 to 25 psi? I weigh a little more and ride rather aggressive but never have more air than 20 psi max.
For me the casing and rubber compound is most important than the pattern. 3 things I’ve learned:
1. The best pattern in the wrong casing and compound is not usable for anything. The wrong pattern with the correct casing and compound can work, as simple as that.
2. Do not overthink too much when choosing. Average riders do not need it.
3. Buy the tire that is on sale.
Awesome watch! This video is a must watch for all those folks (like me) who have always had a nagging gut feeling that the tyres were to blame for all those falls….
Finding the right tires has been driving me crazy. The parts of Epping Forest that I ride are usually very wet and sloppy, which makes my Jumbo Jim tires completely useless in very wet, slippery, loose mud. The closest option I've come across is the Magic Mary, and that just goes to show how desperate I am to find a truly knobby tire for my fat e-MTB. I'd be willing to running them magic Marys stretched on 80mm rims. just so i could have better knobby tires as all the fat tire dirt or mud options seem very similar to my jumbo Jim's such as surely Edwin so if you or someone in the comments has a good suggestions for a set of tires for very sloppy churned up boggy mud please let me know
You freaked me out, RYAN.
—Steve
I only use Maxxis or Vittoria tires
Good video! The trail at the end gives me vertigo!
– Steve
Cush cores?
how did you know i weas looking for tires?1
Sincerly,
Steve
I think casing choice is also determined by where the rider is struggling, knowing that the choice will result in compromise elsewhere. If the rider is struggling to make it to the top, then that rider will appreciate tires with less drag to help get to the top. But that comes at the cost of not having as much durability for the aggressive fun shredding downhill we all love.
Thanks man! new perspective that definitely makes the decision more clear, definitely plenty of decision paralysis with all the options out there.
why is every single video on Youtube tellin me that i'm doing somethin wrong ?
3:50 thinner casing is not only less weight but also less rolling resistance. In hard mountain biking this is not very important but if somebody riding mix xc and trail that could be quite a difference.
If your tires have a rotation indicator, always install the front in reverse rotation. Sounds dumb but it makes sense if you actually look how the pattern is contacting the ground. Moto gp does it with the rain/wet tires.
It’s all about enjoying it and not the gear – well said ❤
Or choose a tire that will give consistant grip across most surfaces, so you don't have big surprises.
What tire do you rec for a 27.5” rear?
Much has changed since the early 1970s ! We learned off road on bikes , motorcycles and trucks . Soft = deep and open tread , medium = mid grip , Hard = tight and shallow tread . These days I'm much older and slower . My Slash 9.8 is fine with the SE6/SE4 for most local trails Or a SE6 /SE6 for soft deeper stuff . Hammering days on those insane " Wet Scream and Hill Billy " treads are for fireside chat stories now . Ride smart young friends .
Good video, nice and to the point!
You can look at Seth's video on Berm Peak Express when he mounted slick tyres on his mountain bike. They were fast on pavement (no surprise there), hardpack and DRY rocks were good too, problem was leaves, braking and sideways grip.
And I know videos about cars might not seem relevant at first, but it's the same principles and technology, just different compromises. For example Team O'neil Rally School explains why rally cars are throwing dirt everywhere. It's the same thing you said, the tyre needs to get down to hardpack. It just does so by applaying extra throttle to start digging and moving away the top layer of loose dirt for more grip.
As for compound you can look at Formula 1. Soft compound is for most grip, fast cornering and wears out fast while hard can sometimes last almost the whole race at the expense of a few fractions of a second per lap. Another example is winter vs summer tyres. If you car to notice winter tyres are softer and during the summer wear out fast and have worse grip.
If you're old or good 26" WTB Velocoraptor for life. They roll slow, you'll get used to it, and be stronger for it. There is no other tire for grip.
I think you’re spot on – the problem is that there are very few options made that hit the tough casing, grippy, lower knob profile sweet spot.
3:27: “I choose the heaviest casing I can. It’s just the weight you are dealing with”
What?
First of all, tire weight matters a lot. It has the biggest influence on inertia of any part on the bike. So, every time you pedal to get back up to speed after hitting the brakes, that’s extra work you are doing, more than the same weight somewhere else on the bike. And, all weight matters going uphill. Mtb involves uphills (except for DH). It’s also unsprung weight so negatively affects your suspension.
Second, it’s not just weight, it also increases rolling resistance. Sometimes by a lot. So now you have tires that roll slower, and are heavier, double whammy to make climbing harder and accelerating in flatter, rolling trails less fun.
Whats the location of the last trail in the end of the video
how do i know if tire casing is thick or thin? is there like a scale or smth telling me that?
i mean you dont know when you gonna ride a bike park right???
Thanks for the great review!
Steve gang reporting in.
Hardpack is about all I have in my area unless I'm riding after senescence(leaf fall). XC tire all day every day. Gotta go fast.
Front: Maxxis Assegai
Rear: Maxxis Minion DHR II
Well, these are the tires personally use because I’m more of a dh person instead of like enduro but yeah, they work really well.
outta topic kidna the riding vids are so good