Are you just getting started with gravel cycling? In this video, we share 5 things I wish I knew before starting gravel cycling to help you save money, avoid common beginner gravel cycling mistakes, and get the most out of your gravel bike setup.
Buying a new gravel bike in 2026 can seem like a bit of a minefield but have you considered these common gravel cycling mistakes? Gravel cycling can be great when you get it right so we share some tips on gravel bike tyre width, the best gravel bikes for your gravel cycling, what to take with you when gravel cycling and much more.
Let us know any of your gravel cycling mistakes down in the comments below…
0:00 Intro
0:25 Gravel bike position
2:05 Tyre width on a gravel bike
3:24 Tubeless gravel bike tyres
4:21 What to take with you when gravel cycling
5:35 Disc brakes
6:20 Different gravel bikes
7:10 Outro
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38 Comments
"there's no point on being aero when you're riding gravel" – making another great argument for flat bar XC bikes as gravel bikes.
very great
Best tip I can give for gravel riding is to get some excellent quality wheels. Cheap wheel sets will feel unresponsive and will soon go out of true on gravel tracks. I have a couple of Paul Hewitt built wheel sets for my gravel bike and they are absolutely bombproof and a joy to ride. Mind, he is one of the best wheel builders in the UK so you get what you pay for.
As an MTB rider, I love 38cm bars on my gravel bike. I’ve had 40-42cm in the past, but narrow bars (that fit) are just so much more comfortable.
wahts the name of the bar with the rise in 0:32?
People go on and on and on about how tubeless is an absolute necessity for gravel. I've been riding all kinds of gravel for nine years now with tubes and, in about 18,000 miles, I have not yet flatted once. Not one flat in nine years and 18,000 miles using tubes. That is not luck. I will never go to tubeless because (1) I'm messy and I don't want that all over my workshop and (2) I am not about to try to keep up with which wheels need new (or more) sealant. I know several people who use sealant who end up with flats because their sealant is old and dried out. JMO, I'll do me, you do you. But tubes have worked great for me. (FYI, I'm not exactly a big boy but I do weigh 175 lbs so I'm not tiny either).
Three years ago I got a Cervelo R5cx as my gravel bike, and I've noticed most current high-end gravel race bikes look a lot like it. It takes 45s with ease. I started tubeless but have since switched to using Tubolito tubes (like on my road bike). I personally found tubeless to be too messy and unreliable, and I'd revert to tubes anyhow if I ever had a puncture the sealant couldn't stop.
On loose surfaces, control is key and moving rider weight all over the bike is part of the control equation. So having the bike setup as you describe makes sense. Now gravel bikes are turning into drop bar hard tail mountain bikes with dropper posts and full front suspension forks. So the riding style used for riding mountain bikes more or less is a given. And yes, grip, tubeless, lower tyre pressure. No question. And robust tires as well. Reliability is a way better idea than "fast" and fragile.
Always wear long sleeves, and go easy on the front brake…
Completely agree with bike fit stuff and saddle height. Most road cyclists have seat too high anyway!
Buy a Hardtail cross country mountain bike….done
At this point theres little difference beetween this setup and an XC bike with a rigid fork, low stem and a "narrow bar" (~660..700mm). Wide tubeless tyres are accepted as standart in the offroad-ish gravel community, at last.
I`ve been riding such a setup since forever (15 years to be precise).
I’ve also got a dropper post on my gravel bike. It’s come in handy more often than you think.
Point 1 – the Lauf fork 👌
Saddke height. Knee pain coming. How brainless can you get?
This is just drop bar mountain biking.
what size tire are those?
Found my ideal gravel e-bike in the Specialized Creo 2, running 50mm Tracer Pro tyre with MucOff tubeless. Gears 1 by12 (44T chainring to 11/50T), SRAM AXS eTap electronic shifting and dropper seat. Carbon frame and less than 15Kg.
it looks like the bike is much too small for you i could not drive like this 10 km, your bike position looks absurd to me. large people on a far to small bike telling others what to do. Thats modern cycling.
All OK except tubeless – it is after it's prime and TPU is taking over.
You missed a few things:
1. Gear ratios. Not all drive trains are alike. I've seen gravel bike with a granny gear with a ratio of 1:1 – which isn't great at climbing, and some that are nearly in mountain bike territory. If you are in a mountainous area, this is critical. On the other hand, if you are mostly on roads and riding with a group on road bikes, having a good top gear can help you from being left behind.
2. Tire pressure. I ride pavement to the trails. Once I get on a trail – if it is at all challenging, I drop my pressure. I'll usually reinflate when I return to the road. Which leads to …
3. Electric mini pumps – really an improvement when you want to just top off your tires
4. Suspension stem – some of my routes are bumpy and rocky – having a suspension stem – one with 2 pivot points helps.
5. I may also get a suspension post
Gravel tires are getting wider and wider. Lots of people around me are running 50mm. That's almost 2", in another couple years they will revolutionize the gravel bike world and release the hardtail MTB.
I bought a gravel bike and now think all this gravel movement is a scam 🙂 There is a very narrow range of road surfaces where it is faster than my Canyon Lux WC. Everywhere else, it is slow and insanely uncomfortable. And yes, I do have 50mm tyres on my gravel 🙂
No you do not need to go tubeless for gravel… shorter stem depends on how long and what you normal position – for me gravel is most comfortable in a compact position to the joins being slightly bend makes better for shock absorption
I agree with a little bit wider bars and shorter stem. Do not agree with lower saddle height. 45s-50s tubeless tires are what most riders will prefer. Absolutely hydraulic disc brakes. === I'll add shorter cranks and 1X if not a high level gravel racer
For me it’s two up front. It’s not all gravel and can still pedal up to 40 mph.Well down hill that is.
There’s little disadvantage in a wider tires but I love 38s still. I feel like I’m more deliberate in my lines
Where's the link you mentioned about tyre width please can't see it ?? Tia..
Narrow bars are better on single track, as a mountainbiker! Saddle height down so your legs are more able to keep you smooth over the rough. Older gravel bike with limited width….oh well! Never done tubeless….never will i dont think harder tire pressure and different style gets it done.
Totally disagree about hydraulic brakes, I have Paul Klampers, never had a single issue wet and all, plus I can fix anywhere.
Super useful tips here. I am a current roadie, but (at 72) I want to expand the repertoire. Thinking of a 1×13 set up…the note about wide tires and tubeless is probably the most germane point here related to my search. THANKS so much. Looking forward to more of the outdoors in New England usa.
My 46-33, 10-36 on my new 3T Racemax gravel bike has proved to be too big. I’m fairly strong and enjoy 50-34, 11-34 on my road bike with any hill. BUT many gravel rides have some steep loose climbs. They say spin it to win it. But low RPM and big watts just is not efficient. The gears are awesome if you want it as a combination gravel/road…
I was riding MTB/XC for more than 25 years now, and 3 days ago I bought my first gravel bike. I need to change or buy a few things, for example a saddle with a cutout (because the position is different and some particular parts of my body feel sore after the ride), a set of new tires and I will go tubeless here as well (although I didn't wanted to go tubeless because of more maintenance than TPU tubes). Anyway this bike is fast compared to my MTB, and unfortunately it is less stable, so I hope to learn how to ride it properly before I crush on some corner… 😉
Suspension stem (USE) and thick bar tape (lizard Skins DSP Ultra 3.5mm) add comfort and control. I also prefer a slightly wider bar with shallow drop and some flare for greater stability when in the drops descending on the rough stuff. I ride a slightly wider tyre on the front for greater comfort and control – I do it on MTB so why not Gravel. But agree with everything elser – shorter stem, saddle position, tubeless, tyre widths etc.
Bought Rose Backroad Carbon 2023 with 47” clearance on 29” tubeless
Sram Force AXS + X01 Eagle AXS mullet build.
Love it! 💪🏼
And just an add-on to my MTB and Road bikes.
I started graveling in 2019 – then and today ALWAYS the same position on all my bikes – Retro steelbikes – mtb – roadbikes – and my gravelbike. I started with a racebike where I fitted a bigger fork, where I could fit a 40mm tyre – out back only 28mm – WHAT a blast we had 🙂, but I did miss my discbrakes on the mtb. Stepping up with a TREK trekkingbike and V-brakes – space for 40mm tyres – did everything right (except the braking) – then getting a Cube C62 Nuroad 2x secondhand – exceptionel good bike – which is for sale now – getting the LAUF SEIGLA next week😁😍
Pues lo que he aprendido es a qué me gusta más una Gravel con suspensión delantera que la rígida!!
I put sealant in my tubes.
I don’t race, just enjoy the movement and scenery at age 78. I ride a 700×45 in the front and 700×42 in the rear. Seems to work for me.