Is this 5nm? It’s seem to tighten a LOT and I’ve never used this tool before but it’s way tighter than I would normally do with an Allen wrench
by thafloorer
Is this 5nm? It’s seem to tighten a LOT and I’ve never used this tool before but it’s way tighter than I would normally do with an Allen wrench
by thafloorer
12 Comments
It’s 6, you would need to be between 4 and 6 and read +1 on the rotating bit to be at 5
Yes, but 5nm is not much force at all. What size bolt is it? One thing when using a torque wrench, especially when working with smaller bolts, is to use torque intuition. If you think it’s too tight, it probably is. If you have a vice you can put the end of the wrench in it and see how much force it takes to get it to click, thats what I do when it seems like it’s too high, just to get a feel.
Edit: it’s at 6nm, oops.
Torque wrenches can go out of torque when not stored properly, or just over time. Always helps to compare to a friend’s or a shops wrench they know is accurate. 5nm shouldn’t usually scare you about it being too tight. It should be just enough to make the bits on the bars not move in most cases.
Looks like 6
Do you know how this torque wrench works? Have you checked the manual? Does it click to let you know you have reached your desired torque? Has it ever been calibrated? Has it seen lots of use and abuse? Has it been stored a long time without being properly zeroed?
…and remember that most torque values stamped on stem, bars, etc are NOT recommended torque, instead they are MAX torque (and most likely based on dry bolts). Per suggestion above, use intuition, where if u feel sufficient purchase before u reach max torque, then u r good and do not need to over tighten thereafter
I done a really stupid thing one time where I bought a torque wrench for my bike to tighten the Seatpost clamp on my brand new carbon bike and tightened to 5Nm but before I knew it I had a snapped bolt it my hand.
My mistake was I thought I knew how this wrench would click because I had used other ones, but it was a very faint click and it had already clicked ages ago! So my advice is, if it’s a new tool, wind it way down to 1-2Nm, familiarise yourself with the click, then work your way up 1Nm at a time! Don’t be like me.
That’s definitely set to 6 Nm if this is like any other torque wrench of similar design. The torque value on these types of wrenches is the sum of the highest horizontal line that the top of the collar touches (in this case 6 Nm) plus the value on the collar that lines up with the vertical line on the wrench (in this case 0.0 Nm). If you want 5 Nm, you need to turn the collar so that the top of the collar is somewhere between the horizontal lines for 4 Nm and 6 Nm (making 4 Nm the highest value horizontal line that the collar touches) with the vertical line on the collar labeled 1.0 Nm lined up with the vertical line on the wrench. This will give you 4.0 Nm + 1.0 Nm = 5.0 Nm. Read the manual to be sure though.
Its at 6. Notice the collar says 0.0
Since the shaft is labeled 4 and then 6, the shaft should say 1 to be at 5nn
That’s probably 6. Turn it to the opposite side between 4 and 6.
For low torque stuff, I use a “[key” style torque wrench](https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/accessories/torque-key-6-bit?srsltid=AfmBOopNKlfrKbwg1tucj87X7M-4MRV0SPxVVzh0bdgy2VUDuwK6azd_); full-size wrenches do better at bigger numbers.
This is 6nm.
If you want 5, turn it back until the „1“ shows up at the collar. You‘d be in between the 4 and 6 markings on the wrench.
Anyway: 5nm is about „hand-tight with a regular size allen key“.
Not using your weight or slamming it. Not stopping at just some resistance either.
You don’t necessarily need a torque wrench for that. Or most things on a bike actually.