There is a tensioning ring on the inside of the non drive crank that you can unscrew to take out the slack.
If it’s too much, it might need a BB spacer
johnboo89 on
Usually a little play is the preload isn’t set. But this is a lot of play. Seems like spacers aren’t correct.
Shot_Animator_8234 on
Missing a spacer plus you need to wind the big nut in to have the correct tension.
Remarkable_Bat_7897 on
you should bring the bike to the seller and ask him to fix that.
coiler_dh on
On the non drive side you have a plastic nut to adjust the play. (It’s secured with a small imbus)
OrmTheBearSlayer on
Assuming you have the right number of spacers on the bottom bracket and the cranks are torqued to the correct spec then there is a preload collar on the none drive side crank arm. Slacken the grub screw on the preload collar then turn it until it just say takes any play out and the cranks still spin freely then tighten the grub screw to hold it in place.
If there is too much play for the preload collar to take out then you’re probably missing a spacer on the bottom bracket.
Ecstatic_Wishbone609 on
This looks more than the preload on the non-drive side can fix. 99% needs an additional spacer or spacers. Since this is a new bike, seller needs to fix this. Bring it back to them.
grumpysfs on
Needs a spacer and preload set.
ReceptionBorn2390 on
Since this is a new bike, take it to wherever you purchased it and have them adjust it. Many bikes need fine tuning after being ridden the first few times as parts might settle or it has been a while since they were set at the factory. If you purchased this from a bike shop, they should fix it for free. Do not pay anything.
West_Wheel_5055 on
XPLR uses a wide chainline. If you have a SRAM DUB bottom bracket, follow the guide for Road-Wide:
12 Comments
There is a tensioning ring on the inside of the non drive crank that you can unscrew to take out the slack.
If it’s too much, it might need a BB spacer
Usually a little play is the preload isn’t set. But this is a lot of play. Seems like spacers aren’t correct.
Missing a spacer plus you need to wind the big nut in to have the correct tension.
you should bring the bike to the seller and ask him to fix that.
On the non drive side you have a plastic nut to adjust the play. (It’s secured with a small imbus)
Assuming you have the right number of spacers on the bottom bracket and the cranks are torqued to the correct spec then there is a preload collar on the none drive side crank arm. Slacken the grub screw on the preload collar then turn it until it just say takes any play out and the cranks still spin freely then tighten the grub screw to hold it in place.
If there is too much play for the preload collar to take out then you’re probably missing a spacer on the bottom bracket.
This looks more than the preload on the non-drive side can fix. 99% needs an additional spacer or spacers. Since this is a new bike, seller needs to fix this. Bring it back to them.
Needs a spacer and preload set.
Since this is a new bike, take it to wherever you purchased it and have them adjust it. Many bikes need fine tuning after being ridden the first few times as parts might settle or it has been a while since they were set at the factory. If you purchased this from a bike shop, they should fix it for free. Do not pay anything.
XPLR uses a wide chainline. If you have a SRAM DUB bottom bracket, follow the guide for Road-Wide:
[https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf](https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/road/dub-choose-a-road-bottom-bracket-compatibility-map.pdf)
You need an extra 2.5mm outer spacer on the left and right. If you don’t have them, you can buy the kit:
[https://www.performancebike.com/sram-dub-mountain-road-v3-bottom-bracket-spacer-kit-black-11.6418.002.002/p1281060](https://www.performancebike.com/sram-dub-mountain-road-v3-bottom-bracket-spacer-kit-black-11.6418.002.002/p1281060)
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compatibility-map/mtb/dub-mtb-bottom-bracket-compatibility-chart.pdf
Thats a lot of play. Id guess its missing spacers and the preload ring being used properly
That much play seems like a spacer issue. Thankfully SRAM is pretty good about specs, diagrams and spacers are cheap