So my old spokes were aluminum and were constantly breaking. Got it rebuilt with steel spokes and the front wheel sits in the fork like this. The bike is a triban rc500 with 28 hole rim.
by depthpolice
So my old spokes were aluminum and were constantly breaking. Got it rebuilt with steel spokes and the front wheel sits in the fork like this. The bike is a triban rc500 with 28 hole rim.
by depthpolice
21 Comments
Needs to be redished
Do you have a photo of the axle and how it is sitting in the fork?
Whoever rebuilt it didn’t do a very good job centering it OR you put the wheel in crooked.
It’s not super difficult to recenter the wheel, but it definitely helps to have some experience in trueing.
Did you flip it around and check the dish is in the wheel, and not just not fully inserted when fitted ?
Check the end caps in the hub axle, there is a chance they were accidentally swapped. For most disc hubs, the longer end cap is on the rotor side
do it right ?
There is a tool that helps center the rim between the axle ends. Whoever did the re-lace did not use the tool. They used the truing stand thinking it was centered. Take it back and have them center it.
Does it sit like that when you spin it or does it wobble around?
Let’s hope they have used the correct spokes for the erd( effective rim diameter) as this will dictate the rim to start central. Other wise one side spokes will be tighten to end of the treads and the other will not be in far enough when dished.
I would ask for your money back and go to some other more competent wheel builder. That’s unacceptable. Can’t trust someone to even fix that. If they fucked up once, they’ll do it again.
I don’t see a rim brake so how are you even getting the disc brake rotor into the brake caliper?
I would double check that it’s sitting in the dropouts correctly first. It’s super easy to miss with a QR bike, and a super easy fix if it’s wrong. Do that before making any changes to spoke tension. It would be really wild if a bike shop did a rebuild this poorly.
Another reason something like this might happen is if the hub has spacing washers on the axle assembly. And those washers haven’t been put back on the correct sides. Resulting in the whole hub and everything attached to it being positioned too far to one side.
If the hubs been assembled properly and the wheel has been put on the bike correctly then it’s a spoke issue as other people on here have said. The spoke tension will be wrong and in the worst case scenario the wrong length spokes will have been used during the rebuild.
If someone else built that wheel then return! Demand a fix or refund!! If you’re going to fix it yourself you’ll need a dishing tool like the [Park Tool WAG-4](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/wheel-alignment-gauge-wag-4?category=Wheel+%26+Spoke). The rim is moved over by loosening the spokes on one side and tightening on the other. If you reach the limit of adjustment then you may have to consider getting a different length set of spokes.
Tips:
When replacing spokes, measure the old ones!!! If they were the right length, you don’t need to do any complicated maths or expensive trial and error purchases.
Luckily modern double-walled rims have some leeway so wheel builders can get away with having some of the spokes a little too long. This never used to be the case with single-walled rims.
Get a refund and find a different shop.
I wonder if the spokes might have been relaxed in opposite sides
Get a new wheel builder.
Hold up. Your old spokes were aluminum? Unless you had a “wheel system” like Industry Nine or Mavic, I doubt that.
That’s a deeper dish than even Papa John’s sell. Someone screwed up in a very rudimentary way.
I’ve built hundreds of wheels and dishing relates to the rear wheel (because of the freewheel). We never used a dishing tool/gauge because we used the Park truing stand.
Did u ensure the QR axle was all the way in the dropout before closing the lever?
If it isn’t QR get the wheel dished