Hello everyone,
I’m currently using SRAM Code RSC brakes and having this long dead stroke issue. I’m running SRAM Centerline 203 mm rotors front and rear, along with Galfer purple e-bike pads.
Even with the contact point adjustment set all the way out, the bite point still comes very late. I’m not sure if there’s air in the system or not. I’m not experiencing heat fade on long rides, and the lever doesn’t feel spongy either.
What do you think the problem could be is that bleed issue or something like that?
I’d appreciate your thoughts, opinions, and suggestions.
Thanks and ride safe!
Sram CODE RSC Long Dead Stroke İssue
byu/Easy_Application8600 inMTB
by Easy_Application8600
11 Comments
It needs to be bled.
Stop messing with the contact adjust. It should be adjusted intermittently to keep your lever throw the same as your pads wear. That piece can get stuck and is a pain to get unstuck.
What happened before this occurred?
Take the wheel out the frame, pull the lever a bunch of times so the pistons get a little closer each time, then put the wheel back in and try again. I use this technique a lot, works with any brakes to reduce the dead stroke. Do a few pulls at a time as if they get too close you may need to lever the pistons back out a little. Caliper may also need realigning to the rotor after this which takes 2 mins
My Rs did the same thing, even after a bleed. I was basically riding without a rear brake. Swapped them out for SLX, couldn’t be happier.
Need bleeding!
I’m thinking about switching to the Maven. How about that?
Check the brake lines for any leaks also the codes calipers thend to get sticky pistons, a proper service and bleeding on time can prevent most of these…
Air, most likely. Just bleed it and see.
Here’s how to ACTUALLY fix the issue. Sram recommends you bleed the brakes with the contact all the way out, meaning after the bleed you are only able to lengthen the deadstroke.
Instead, set the contact adjust roughly in the middle and then perform a bleed as standard. This lets you then shorten the throw back to a normal range.
A few extra tips: you can use a 4mm allen key as a spacer for the pistons so that you can bring them out fully for cleaning. It should slot perfectly into the hole for the brake rotor. Clean them with alcohol or brake cleaner and work them back and forth a couple times. I like using 2 tire levers to push them back, since they can’t possibly scratch or crack the pistons.
This is op’s third post in here regarding this issue. Bottom line is you need a bleed. You said you don’t work on your bikes and if your bike shop can’t fix or advise you on this issue it is definitely time for a new shop. Regarding the mavens, they are great but like previously stated they require a lot for initial setup and if you are having this many issues with codes the mavens will be way more of a headache. My advice to you is get the codes bled at a new shop.
Get better brakes, SRAM sucks