If you can still get the tool in there I recommend heat and a good penratrant oil
naambezet on
Happy new bike day!
pauip on
Pick out the broken pieces that prevent the BB tool from fitting. Use penetrating oil and leave it a day on one side then more oil and lay it on the other side. Tap on the BB spindle here and there on both sides for a few seconds during this time. Torch the BB red hot and hit it with more penetrating oil. It will smoke really bad so prepare for that. Try the BB tool with a long pipe after that.
Grande_Mangiattore on
Soak it in wd40 or equivalent.
Then soak it some more.
The next day try to attach the right tool to the bb.
Now you have to secure the tool to the spindle with a bolt.
Soak it some more.
Get a wrench on your tool with a 6 foot extension. Be sure to turn it the good way around ( do some research for tge type of bb you have).
You can do it! Good luck!
digitalbladesreddit on
Do your best, watch YouTube tutorials. I tried 2 years different things, then stripped bike and threw out the frame 🙁
nbriles2000 on
Step 1: stop randomly hammering things!
ziggler81 on
You can try putting a quick release through the tool and the BB spindle to help hold it in place.
bizikletari on
Drive side uses left threads. Righty-loosey.
Philstar_nz on
what you need is a long bolt that fits though your BB tool and into the spindle (saw one some where as a tool for sale that had a double ended bolt and a nut to go outside your BB tool) , then bolt the bb tool to the BB/spindle. lots of penetration oil and time, maybe put the tool in a vice and hall on the frame, but i think you are out of luck.
if it is worth the effort you might be able to drill holes in the bb, thread them and then bolt a big leaver to it. or try removing it with a dremel and drill
Socks_n_crocs69 on
Find a hole in the wall machine shop with machinists chain smoking unfiltered Camels. They’ll have it apart in an hour for about $150.
Mindless-Baker-7757 on
I think I would try to use square taper crank bolt to hold the spline tool firmly in place and then crank on it until it comes out.
Lopsided_Belt_2237 on
Has anyone welded up the axle to the bearings and inside of the bb housing to be able to use the axle itself to grab onto?
Don’t use WD40 like everyone suggests. Use Kroil or PB Blaster and heat it up with a heat gun.
WD40 is mid to low tier as a penetrating oil. Only reason is popular is because of aggressive marketing and 90s sitcoms.
lingueenee on
I’d give the drive side a shot, securing the tool with a bolt through the spindle. You manage to get that side loose and remove the BB from the drive side then perhaps loosening the non-drive side cup with a hammer may be successful when it’s not tightened under installation. Remember BSA BB drive side has left hand thread.
JollyGreen_ on
I remember the first time I got my bottom busted out
Routine_Mortgage_499 on
Are you using a hammer and chisel? There’s a specific tool just for every thing on a bike.
phatsackocrap on
Mullet Mechanic just went through a similar situation
This problem seems to come back again and again here. I understand it because I used to be just as stumped, especially when I had bike on the stand and already removed the wheels meaning I just lost even the last bit of leverage I could have.
Furthermore, having long wrench like some advised doesn’t always work well because the BB tool of this style doesn’t go in very deep and its very easy to get it to slip if you don’t maintain correct angle. You can quickly mess up your tool or the teeth on the BB this way creating even more problems.
So, by far most foolproof solution is to basically copy this guy, this is how pro mechanics do it:
Step 3: Put frame flat on the ground on something soft like fabric, foam or cardboard
Step 4: Attach tool to impact driver
Step 5: Set impact to highest setting and lean with all your body weight into the frame with the tool engaged correctly
Step 6: Success
Indcent_Animal_1002 on
I think your options are an IPA or a lager.
JortsKitty on
Penetrating oil, heat, the proper tool. Or bring it to a bike shop.
skidsareforkids on
The tool needs to be as secure as humanly possible. We’re talking something to act as a sleeve or a bushing between the bottom bracket axle and the tool to make sure it can’t wiggle radially, then the whole lot needs cinched down using the crank bolt threads. I recommend having a wave washer under the bolt to keep it snug because as the cup hopefully starts to turn it needs a little wiggle room to be able to come out little by little. Also, you need to be prepared to put heat on the frame if it doesn’t move naturally
Hoppingbird on
Kroil or PB Blaster and the correct tool locked in with the crank bolt
BWWFC on
not saying it’s your only or prime option, but NBD (NFD+NBBD? idk you do you) would be my choice.
pick your battles, best luck
brian2funny on
Maybe ask at your local auto parts store.( Not crappy tire). What is the best penetrating oil they have and try that. I am no fan of WD-40.
TruckCAN-Bus on
Soak in oil.
Add pb blaster.
More oil.
Don’t remove it just keep using that freshly lubed BB.
3wolfmoonjedi on
The bus
trogdor-the-burner on
New bike day?
Vash_the_stampede73 on
I would try using the proper tool and some PB blaster and remove the other side first. Then you can use a hacksaw blade to cut a wedge out of this side and use your favorite hammer and chisel to break the cup out of the frame.
fill some tupperware with pb blaster and dunk it in that shit and let it soak, then hammer on the proper tool and put a long ass breaker bar on it.
Low-Literature5202 on
And after all that soaking in penetrating oil like they were speaking of in the other comments, next is the most important part, and that is to soak it some more at least 48 hours with with minimal of 10 thorough applications throughout that time. Then have a go with the 6-ft breaker bar with the proper BB tool
36 Comments
If you can still get the tool in there I recommend heat and a good penratrant oil
Happy new bike day!
Pick out the broken pieces that prevent the BB tool from fitting. Use penetrating oil and leave it a day on one side then more oil and lay it on the other side. Tap on the BB spindle here and there on both sides for a few seconds during this time. Torch the BB red hot and hit it with more penetrating oil. It will smoke really bad so prepare for that. Try the BB tool with a long pipe after that.
Soak it in wd40 or equivalent.
Then soak it some more.
The next day try to attach the right tool to the bb.
Now you have to secure the tool to the spindle with a bolt.
Soak it some more.
Get a wrench on your tool with a 6 foot extension. Be sure to turn it the good way around ( do some research for tge type of bb you have).
You can do it! Good luck!
Do your best, watch YouTube tutorials. I tried 2 years different things, then stripped bike and threw out the frame 🙁
Step 1: stop randomly hammering things!
You can try putting a quick release through the tool and the BB spindle to help hold it in place.
Drive side uses left threads. Righty-loosey.
what you need is a long bolt that fits though your BB tool and into the spindle (saw one some where as a tool for sale that had a double ended bolt and a nut to go outside your BB tool) , then bolt the bb tool to the BB/spindle. lots of penetration oil and time, maybe put the tool in a vice and hall on the frame, but i think you are out of luck.
if it is worth the effort you might be able to drill holes in the bb, thread them and then bolt a big leaver to it. or try removing it with a dremel and drill
Find a hole in the wall machine shop with machinists chain smoking unfiltered Camels. They’ll have it apart in an hour for about $150.
I think I would try to use square taper crank bolt to hold the spline tool firmly in place and then crank on it until it comes out.
Has anyone welded up the axle to the bearings and inside of the bb housing to be able to use the axle itself to grab onto?
https://pedros.com/products/bb-socket-holder-ii?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23481543497&gclid=CjwKCAjwn4vQBhBsEiwAq3hhN27JH2t7c9x_eBsM5mJgjrMgKBKNNqKC8fANE77bA8X4Q0PNKthL9xoCVwwQAvD_BwE
PB Blaster, soak a day.
Bolt through your tool, big wrench.
Or take to a shop.
https://preview.redd.it/uib7o2nnbs0h1.jpeg?width=447&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6ad50cad0ef88cd71ad7e0d9141e034a36cac89
Don’t use WD40 like everyone suggests. Use Kroil or PB Blaster and heat it up with a heat gun.
WD40 is mid to low tier as a penetrating oil. Only reason is popular is because of aggressive marketing and 90s sitcoms.
I’d give the drive side a shot, securing the tool with a bolt through the spindle. You manage to get that side loose and remove the BB from the drive side then perhaps loosening the non-drive side cup with a hammer may be successful when it’s not tightened under installation. Remember BSA BB drive side has left hand thread.
I remember the first time I got my bottom busted out
Are you using a hammer and chisel? There’s a specific tool just for every thing on a bike.
Mullet Mechanic just went through a similar situation
https://youtu.be/1zjXKJF5kRU
new bike
You sure you have been turning it the right way?
This problem seems to come back again and again here. I understand it because I used to be just as stumped, especially when I had bike on the stand and already removed the wheels meaning I just lost even the last bit of leverage I could have.
Furthermore, having long wrench like some advised doesn’t always work well because the BB tool of this style doesn’t go in very deep and its very easy to get it to slip if you don’t maintain correct angle. You can quickly mess up your tool or the teeth on the BB this way creating even more problems.
So, by far most foolproof solution is to basically copy this guy, this is how pro mechanics do it:
https://youtu.be/lqLjzICoBks?si=Maw7G9L6_vH_l-LR
Step 1: Have an impact drill
Step 2: Have the correct BB tool
Step 3: Put frame flat on the ground on something soft like fabric, foam or cardboard
Step 4: Attach tool to impact driver
Step 5: Set impact to highest setting and lean with all your body weight into the frame with the tool engaged correctly
Step 6: Success
I think your options are an IPA or a lager.
Penetrating oil, heat, the proper tool. Or bring it to a bike shop.
The tool needs to be as secure as humanly possible. We’re talking something to act as a sleeve or a bushing between the bottom bracket axle and the tool to make sure it can’t wiggle radially, then the whole lot needs cinched down using the crank bolt threads. I recommend having a wave washer under the bolt to keep it snug because as the cup hopefully starts to turn it needs a little wiggle room to be able to come out little by little. Also, you need to be prepared to put heat on the frame if it doesn’t move naturally
Kroil or PB Blaster and the correct tool locked in with the crank bolt
not saying it’s your only or prime option, but NBD (NFD+NBBD? idk you do you) would be my choice.
pick your battles, best luck
Maybe ask at your local auto parts store.( Not crappy tire). What is the best penetrating oil they have and try that. I am no fan of WD-40.
Soak in oil.
Add pb blaster.
More oil.
Don’t remove it just keep using that freshly lubed BB.
The bus
New bike day?
I would try using the proper tool and some PB blaster and remove the other side first. Then you can use a hacksaw blade to cut a wedge out of this side and use your favorite hammer and chisel to break the cup out of the frame.
https://preview.redd.it/4n3s2hm3gt0h1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=db606a733f747b90ea4bb7eec8e4adb4a6678f28
fill some tupperware with pb blaster and dunk it in that shit and let it soak, then hammer on the proper tool and put a long ass breaker bar on it.
And after all that soaking in penetrating oil like they were speaking of in the other comments, next is the most important part, and that is to soak it some more at least 48 hours with with minimal of 10 thorough applications throughout that time. Then have a go with the 6-ft breaker bar with the proper BB tool