Bike is a Boardman ADV 8.6.
I bought a Tortec Ultralight rack, which is shown fitted to a disc brake bike in the image online. When I try and fit it, the downward legs clash against the welds. I have to stretch them apart a ridiculous amount to even get them over the welds, to the point where they are splayed too much to get the screws in properly.
My question is: have I bought the wrong rack, or are these bike welds unusually large? (Or both?)
Could anyone recommend a rack that fits this bike? Thanks.
by Serious-Tip-1534
8 Comments
Use M5 standoffs (second time I’ve posted this in two days):
[https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standoffs/thread-size~m5/standoffs-2~/](https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standoffs/thread-size~m5/standoffs-2~/)
They’re cheap, and if you get them in stainless, they won’t rust.
One key is to feed a thin head M5 bolt from the inside of the dropout, add whatever spacers you need, and then put a nyloc nut to hold it together.
This saves you from trying to fit the nut next to the cogs and brake.
The problem with your bike is the hooded drop-outs rather than the disc brakes. I’ve never seen them with a welded look before; they’re usually clean like [this.](https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/img-6973-jpg.1322967/)
The most “disc brake friendly” racks will have some kind of offset next to their attachment points at the bottom, which also gets them around any hoods. The best example from Tortec is the [Transalp;](https://www.altura.co.uk/products/transalp-rear-disc-rack) the [Axiom Streamliner](https://axiomgear.com/en-us/collections/racks/products/streamliner-disc-dlx-bike-rack) is another example with a different shape. If you decide to keep your current rack, you’ll just have to add the offsets yourself. That can be as cheap or as rugged as you want it to be; I went the [cheap route,](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikecommuting/s/qyenffJBBq) which looks like it’ll last for a total of 6-12 months.
What angle is the rack at?
Is it horizontal or tipped back slightly as is generally advised?
Kinda looks the legs might clear the dropouts with the rack in that position.
Failing that if youve got a few basic tools and a bit of plate you could make an adapter somewhat like that in the link below to make a new mounting point a bit behind the dropout.
https://www.bikewarehousepro.co.uk/products/tubus-dropout-extension-adapter/
Check out this Topeak rack. It is made for older bikes where the disc brakes were outside of the seat stays.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKS9QYT/?coliid=I3SLOVI8I2BP2O&colid=15LHEV7GRA3MO&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_lstpd_EAH9DNN7Z2J84BTSFWW4](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKS9QYT/?coliid=I3SLOVI8I2BP2O&colid=15LHEV7GRA3MO&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_lstpd_EAH9DNN7Z2J84BTSFWW4)
Edit: I have one in my garage and I measured it. The extension point sticks out about 1 inch from the side of the rack and is 5/8 inch in diameter.
You just need some spacers and slightly longer M4 bolts and you should be g2g.
Use spacers, problem solved!
I had a similar problem with my pannier. I just took a dremmel to the aluminum rack and made some adjustments until it fit.