Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my chain constantly breaking, even when I'm just riding, no grinding.
i have a brand new 28t sprocket, bramd new wheels (literally first use today, Shadow truss x Symbol rear wheel), all on a quite new Total BMX Hangover frame.
My problem is, that the chain is really bad aligned and I don't see a way to fix it. There are now spacers on the sprocket, only the dust cap on the crank arm. And even when removing that, I can't bring the sprocket closer to the frame becaise it's already super close.
On the hub, I would need to move driver cöoser to the dropout, but how? Is that even possible?
Or are modern frames not made for 28t sprockets anymore?!
Any ideas are highly appreciated!
by DK_Post
6 Comments
More info: The chain seems to break immediately when using a chain lock. It seems to hold longer (maybe even not breaking at all) when I ride without a chain lock.
Also, there are no spacers on the sprocket (typo in the post).
im using a 25tooth chainring and i replace the dustcup with just the spacer.I think im only using one spacer.My chainring is so close to the chainstays like only 3-4mm clearance
When you get new sprocket and wheels, get a new chain as well.
You don’t need a dustcap on your bottom bracket, you can remove at least one spacer, you have “plenty” of space before it starts hitting the frame.
Get a drive side hubguard, when you grind on the drive side you basically grind on top of your driver/chain. Expect your chain to snap often if you don’t ride hubguards.
“Or are modern frames not made for 28t sprockets anymore?!”
this. you may concievably be able to find a narrower drive side cone spacer, but you’d then have to dish the wheel
I have a 2mm spacer on my drive side to line my chain up with my z coaster and s&m sprocket .Now to wait for my new bottom bracket. If you want a good chain get a knc b1h chain
You might not have a adapter in your sprocket hole too, does it seem tighter or looser depending on the crank position? I would get a half link chain though, stronger.