A month ago I completed my first bikepacking trip. After I was thinking of flying back home from Chile, a friend casually mentioned that her friend did the Carretera Austral on a bike. The idea got into my mind and I couldn’t shake it off!

I had never even thought about bikepacking, I had done some hiking and backpacking in Patagonia but it didn’t scratch the itch and that idea just felt so right.

At that point the longest I had ridden a bike continuously was 3 hours in Ecuador and I bussed back cuz it was an uphill but I made up my mind and three weeks after that conversation I went to Puerto Montt to find a bike and figure out what gear I needed, what it is called in Spanish and how to pack it with no knowledge about bikes!

Should I get used? Should I just rent? I would go to a Facebook marketplace seller to see a bike then when I would arrive I wouldn’t know what to test or look for. I screen recorded some YT videos on how to fix this and that. I had thoughts of just ditching the plan and going back home, but I went through with it and I was rewarded with the best trip in my life!

The first days on the trip were very harsh, uphills and downhills with really coarse gravel and constructions, raaainnnn, really flat stretches with repetitive scenes, rain and soaked socks, mental battles and questioning why the hell I was doing that, rain and losing hope in getting my shoes or socks dry, loneliness and squeaky muscles, rain and wet clothes, on top of that my food options were limited to what Señora Maria had at her little store. The rain later turned into scorching Patagonian sun that felt really harsh on the skin, and had some headwinds that made me feel paralyzed, but I pushed through and I am so happy I did.

The scenes were crazy beautiful. I truly think cameras could never capture the beauty of Patagonia. I think it was everywhere I got spoiled and used to it.

I had a lot of quiet rides and nights with no service and did lots of reflecting. Had so many deep thoughts and although loneliness was getting to me, I enjoyed the solitude I had.

Everyday I met new cyclists, from different parts of the world, (never from the Middle East where I am from though) and it was fun to see them in one town and then run to them two days later in the next one. It felt like we created a little cycling family that also helped me stay motivated without interfering with my solitude as I would bike with one or two for a couple nights then go solo again. The convos we had made me feel like bikepacking is some sort of a video game but irl where everyone has some XP points, a unique set of gear, some levels they have gone through. I realized my gear was humble and kind of minimal compared to what I saw and I actually really liked that.

This trip has given me great memories, I felt as free as a bird, the bike could take me anywhere I wanted. It was fast enough to cover distance, yet slow to stop to skinny dip in the waterfall by the street. I realized how little I needed to live as I carried everything I needed to live and it was less than 25kg. I realized how strong mentally and physically I am. The carretera austral tested my patience with Patagonia’s coldness, invasive sun, headwind, remoteness, gravel, but I think I liked it too much I’m afraid it ruined thru-hiking for me!

When I reached my destination, Villa O’Higgins, after 1330 km over the course of 25 days, I had to sell the bike. I felt like a wingless bird.. I couldn’t get to that cool waterfall with sweet fresh cold water or that wild camping spot by a heavenly lake anymore. It was hard to say goodbye to that harsh yet addictive lifestyle.

Now, one month later, I am looking forward to my next bikepacking trip 🙂

by Coookie99

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5 Comments

  1. Your story is a great read, and one I needed to see. I have just bought a bike which I plan to cycle around Britain on and then hopefully head in to Europe and just kind of cycle until I don’t want to any more. I have become hermitted at home and often suffer little motivation to leave the house. I am fearful of not enjoying it or not managing because I am not a professional athelete. But you give me hope.

    May your future adventures be just as rewarding!

  2. Did this back in January of 2019. My friend invited me, failed to mention the other 3 in the group were marathon runners and avid cyclists. They all flew their gravel bikes down while I rented a mountain bike that didn’t fit me properly. Was brutal but amazing. Kinda want to live in Bariloche 😂

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