Hey guys, I might have a problem. I switched from AdventX on my Cannondale Topstone to a 2*11 Shimano 105. STIs are ST-R7025.
While tightening the screw(flange connecting bolt Y8RD02000) that should secure the olive, CAREFULLY, something cracked in the STI (see picture). I really tried to screw in the bolt gently, but it cracked instantly, as soon as there was resistance. Usually this is the point where there is contact to the olive.
My question is:
Am I screwed and did I mess up my sti (the shown crack is obviously non existent on the other sti, everything worked out fine there).
Is there a way to fix my brand new STI?
Thank you for your help!
by FurstRW
13 Comments
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Honestly you’ve over tighten it sadly.
A new levers is needed.
You need a new lever. Sorry.
My bike was cross threaded from factory and it required a new lever
Hi if there are new you can send them to warranty, if they say no than you can choose one more new lever)
You didn’t realise that there was already an olive in there…
Someone pass that bloke the butter this one is toast.
Sadly you just learned the expensive lesson that plastic hydraulic housing is not as strong as a metal spanner held in a human hand. You only need to tighten it enough to deform the olive and create a seal not torque it to 40nm
Try SJS Cycles. They should stock the part you need.
You’ve heard that it’s no good. But you should know if you replace it you really should use a torque wrench and a crow foot adapter to tighten this. They can crack if they are over tightened, and the nut flange does not bottom out on the housing when properly tightened.
You probably did not use the shimano barb and olive. Shimano has the tolerances perfect for their barb and olive. When the bolt snugs against the brake, everything is perfect. If you use a different manufacturer’s barb and olive, it does not compress the same and the lever cracks.
lol i like that “carefully” part, tell that to shimano’s support.
there should be at least 1 mm gap between the flange and the lever’s body when everything seated properly.
i wonder, how much torque you applied to the levers’ metal band as well. they could be damaged too
If you have used a torque wrench for the bolt, you would have known that usually the bolt wouldn’t have been flushed.
If the flange is flush with the lever, it’s signs of over tightening.
It’s very tempting to tighten to flush. You don’t need a torque wrench every install but that’s a mistake a lot of newbies make.
I did this recently with my 105 lever as well. I didn’t overtighten, I think the olive wasn’t aligned correctly so it couldn’t go on.
I got some gorilla glue and applied it into the gap the bolt created, then loosened the bolt so the gap closed together. I then waited a couple hours for it to dry.
Once it dried I tightened the bolt back in and the gap didn’t appear.
It has held up fine for a few months now. No leaks or anything and I have really wrenched on the lever to test it out. I’ll be keeping an eye on it, prob checking pre and post ride going forward.
I would definitely try and go the warranty route if you can and they’re new. Mine were not so I tried what I could to salvage them. This was the fourth or fifth bike I was putting them on so they had been moved around a lot.