Hi all,

Looking to upgrade my 1980s Repco Traveller I think it is. I really like this bike and don’t want to let it go yet. I ride maybe 4-5 times a week but feel like if I upgrade some parts (gear, brakes and tyres imo) it might ride a little bit better. Could you please advise me on what I can do and also how to find parts that I might need for the upgrades? I’m pretty new to this so any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks!

by Jumpy_Sample1044

Share.

4 Comments

  1. There are lots of upgrades and/or fixes you can make, but some are more important and easy than others.

    I’d say the most pressing issue is the tires, they look pretty old, and it’s usually the one upgrade that improves the ride the most. We can help you with sizing if you’re unsure, if you take a pic of the current tires’ markings.

    Then I’d turn to the braking. One limitation of the bike as it is will be its steel rims. They look in good shape so it’s a shame, but the best improvement of braking power would be by changing the wheels, or at least the rims, to aluminium ones, especially if you’re going to be riding in wet conditions a lot.

    There are extra-soft brake pads that can mitigate this effect so it’s worth a try before changing out the wheelset.

    Getting dual-pivot brake calipers would be nice too but it’s probably not the limiting factor (yet).

    Then I’d turn to the points of contact : saddle, pedals, bars/bar tape. That’ll have a bigger impact than one might think.

    Only then would I turn to the drivetrain. It has a 5 speed freewheel, so it probably had a 1/8″ chain and chanrings, which means you’d have to upgrade the whole thing at once, which would be a shame, I think, so I’m not too sure. But you’ll know if you feel limited by your gearing only after having ridden it for a while.

    All of this is assuming there aren’t any glaring issues that would take priority. I’ll list what my experience tells me to check :
    – worn brake cables or housing,
    – an indexed headset,
    – freeplay in the wheel bearings or the bottom bracket,
    – stuck seatpost
    – stuck handlebar stem
    – heavily dented rims
    – spoke tension problems

  2. Grouchy-Tadpole-4390 on

    First before riding get rid of that cable sharp angle out of the hand brakes, you need a far more gentle arch and replace the no doubt antique pads so you can stop quickly if needed. Tubes and tires if needed but put some miles on it and things will come to you. Hopefully you have the original made in Victoria Australia decal.

  3. I’ve been down this road before on a bike of similar vintage, and while ultimately it was a great learning experience, there’s only so much that’s reasonable to do before you’re throwing good money after bad.

    First thing that jumps out at me to fix are the brake levers. That style you have is *not* supposed to have the brake cable housing under then handlebar tape, by doing so you have a sharp angle at the lever which adds friction and reduces braking performance. Plus suicide levers were never a good idea in the first place. I’d actually consider replacing both the brake levers and the entire handlebar (and brake cables/bar tape)- Some Tektro RL430s and some drop bars with a modern shape will totally update the feel of the bike. Some new brake pads is rarely a bad idea, but those looks like steel rims, which will never have the best braking performance.

    A more modern saddle could also be a lot more comfy too.

    If the tires are in poor shape they’d also be high on my list to replace. However, if they’re in decent condition and you’re not bothered by them being mis-matched, then you’re probably better off leaving them as-is. They’re likely 27″ wheels, which is a mostly obsolete size, meaning there’s a limited selection of tires available for them, none of them particularly high-performance.

    If everything is functional on the drive train, I probably wouldn’t touch it. There’s a bunch of things you’d need to replace all at once to get a noticeable upgrade (crankset, bottom bracket, derailleurs, shifters, freewheel, even maybe the wheel itself), and it’s unlikely to be worth it.

    Some new pedals might not be a bad easy upgrade.

  4. TheDaysComeAndGone on

    The problem is really: Where do you start and stop? Wheels, tyres, saddle, handlebar, brakes, pedals … suddenly you are 500€ into this project and we haven’t even touched the drivetrain yet.

    I would fix the brake cable routing (it shouldn’t be under the bar tape) and anything else which actually needs fixing (e.g. tyres if they have (severe) cracks (dry rot), chain if it’s ≥1% worn) and then just ride it.

    Service the bearings if it hasn’t been done in a while and it’s going to work just fine for a long time.

Leave A Reply