I found a cromoly 26” scott montana frame for 20€ but with a little detail 🤣
They have cut the tubes of the rear sheaths to put 29” wheels
I’m thinking of buying it and send it to be welded, but I don’t know if this project is worth it
by featherx1111
15 Comments
Horrific work, also that head tube looks like it’s massive – do you have a set of forks with that much length or would you be sourcing that too? Certainly not staying a 20€ project
**Tired me looking at pictures:** Oh, that’s an interesting thing circled, I wonder what that mounted.
**Me reading description:** Ooooooooohhhhh Nnoooooooooooooooo.
Send the pictures to a welder and see what they say then figure out if you want to spend that. Personally I’d nope right out. If the previous owner did that who knows what else is hiding in that frame.
I mean, it’s up to you. To me this frame looks like it could be a fun project to experiment with especially since it’s already had those braces cut. So you’d have to probs add braces further up the seat and chainstay, maybe move dimples up on the chain stays and honestly while you’re at it put a disc brake tab and brace cuz I doubt those canti posts are gonna be much use with 29er wheels. Kinda feeling like 29″ wheels are a stretch with this. 27.5″ would probably be a more versatile pick. After the work is done you’ll have to paint it yourself or get it painted, then do actual build. If that sounds like fun to you i say go for it!!
“I wish the rear triangle was softer”
Guy with sawzall “I got chu”
Pass for me. I’m not buying any frames that someone has hacked. Take for free and then put in the work, welding, etc. sure, but I’m not paying money for it.
If you don’t have the means to braze or weld it yourself: No.
I’d only take it free of charge. And then I’d only use it for cruising around town, no actual MTBing.
Stay bridges are generally brazed on – you could heat it with a torch, melt to brass and pull them off (those stays aren’t drilled there).
Another bridge(s) could be brazed roughly two inches north (assuming spacing). There’s no reason it wouldn’t work but it sounds like an enormous hassle.
Also this is jig territory – otherwise you’re crabbing.
Nah. Once you’ve taken a hacksaw to your bike you don’t get to sell it anymore. Free-ninety-nine is the only good deal on this frame.
I would only consider taking that if it were free, and even then it’s a maybe.
Big yikes. I’d pass.
You can definitely find a similar bike for the price without the headache.
I think it’s fine for that price. The bridges are not structural when the wheel is installed (so I’ve read). The wheel (hub) becomes the structural member. Aesthetics, that’s a whole other issue.
They do help keep the stays from getting squished during transport and the wheel is out. That can be done with a brace, I use a threaded rod and nuts when I pack my bike.
The bridge is needed for rim brakes, it helps give stiffness to the stays and gives squeeze power to the brakes. This can be accomplished with a good brake arch, which will be needed on this frame.
If you’re planning on installing fenders, then that’s going to be difficult. The bridges are needed for those.
Many modern disc frames don’t have bridges on their stays. Particularly race frames.
I’d be more irritated by the missing fork and half headset. That’s just a hassle. The rear braking will not be great, but if the frame breaks it probably won’t be catastrophic.
this is really unfortunate and I’d avoid in favor of a frame that hasn’t been hacked… but, if the frame geometry and size are perfectly fit for you and you’re in for the struggle of the project, no reason not to tackle this for fun!
but, as to your question “worth it?”… no. definitely not worth it given the abundance of un-hacked frames available for roughly the same price. they’ll be far lower effort and ultimately lower cost, too.
I wouldn’t invest my time and energy in a 25+ year old scott thats been modded