Yes, as long as your 1x chainring is the same bcd (I believe that is 110 in this case)
donnybrasc0 on
May need some slimmer chainring bolts. Have a red road quarq that i still use 1x for years.
Brayden_D91 on
Yes. Your crank arm and power meter are separate (ideal). It is either 8 bolts or 3 bolts holding it together but….. (skip to the end if you don’t care about the technical stuff)
Your chain line is measured between your two chainrings and to the center of your seat tube. It will probably be ≈43.5mm assuming you have rim brakes and use a 130mm rear hub. Now if you are more modern and have disk brakes with either a 135mm or 142mm hub your chain line will be ≈45mm. In saying that you have gravel bikes now with 45-47.5mm chain lines to accommodate wider tires.
Long story short since your spider and cracks are separate (ideal) you can just install a 2mm offset shim to basically push your power meter inward so you can install your 1x chainring on the outside. This will basically split the difference. Your goal is to measure your bikes current chain line and try to match it with a 1x chainring as best a possible.
The only thing that matters:
If your current chain line is 45mm and your largest ring chain line is ≈48mm (which is normally what it is) small ring should be ≈42mm. Technically totally fine since it is basically 47.5mm which is used for a wide set up. You have the luxury of using a 2mm offset shim which would move that big ring from ≈48mm to ≈46mm. Which is not quite your original 45mm but good enough; but more importantly more ideal than just slapping on a 1x chainring.
3 Comments
Yes, as long as your 1x chainring is the same bcd (I believe that is 110 in this case)
May need some slimmer chainring bolts. Have a red road quarq that i still use 1x for years.
Yes. Your crank arm and power meter are separate (ideal). It is either 8 bolts or 3 bolts holding it together but….. (skip to the end if you don’t care about the technical stuff)
Your chain line is measured between your two chainrings and to the center of your seat tube. It will probably be ≈43.5mm assuming you have rim brakes and use a 130mm rear hub. Now if you are more modern and have disk brakes with either a 135mm or 142mm hub your chain line will be ≈45mm. In saying that you have gravel bikes now with 45-47.5mm chain lines to accommodate wider tires.
Long story short since your spider and cracks are separate (ideal) you can just install a 2mm offset shim to basically push your power meter inward so you can install your 1x chainring on the outside. This will basically split the difference. Your goal is to measure your bikes current chain line and try to match it with a 1x chainring as best a possible.
The only thing that matters:
If your current chain line is 45mm and your largest ring chain line is ≈48mm (which is normally what it is) small ring should be ≈42mm. Technically totally fine since it is basically 47.5mm which is used for a wide set up. You have the luxury of using a 2mm offset shim which would move that big ring from ≈48mm to ≈46mm. Which is not quite your original 45mm but good enough; but more importantly more ideal than just slapping on a 1x chainring.