Hi everyone, so i went to a bike shop saying my breaks are very “spongie” and have no stopping power (this is a brand new build). I have now moved my leavers reach out more as i was told the breaks don’t have power because they are hitting my bars…?
After moving the leavers out i have noticed my right (rear) break is very slow coming out, compared to my left (front). What could be causing this and could this be the reason to little stopping power?
Also, how to people with small hands get stopping power if the reach is screwed closer and the leaver hits the bar? Surely this should not be a problem and could be resolved by re-bleeding the system?
Breaks are: SRAM Rival eTap AXS
Little LOL…I found out my breaks had no to little power going 75kph down 9% 🙈
Videos Attached…
by chossyclimber
7 Comments
Some higher end levers have a separate bite point adjustment on top of the lever reach adjustment.
Basically, you can change how much the lever can move until the brake pads engage, not just how far away the lever is.
Unfortunately, I’m fairly certain that Rival brakes don’t have this setting, only the Force and Red. [If you have](https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publications/2bJvdvYz3DCAfCZVNeUucG#hashItem=reach-and-contact-point-adjustment) this screw on the top of the lever, then you actually have and it would probably solve this.
The lever way will also get longer as the pads wear down. It’s all just a bit suboptimal and probably why people were so excited for the new levers.
Now, this obviously doesn’t help you right now.
If the brakes are bedded in, then SRAM just suggests to do [this](https://docs.sram.com/en-US/publications/2bJvdvYz3DCAfCZVNeUucG#hashItem=disc-brake-piston-massage). I think it’ll also help with the slow return.
Your BRAKES must be the same generation as my SRAM AXS. had the same issue on my Creo 2. down a steep 10% grade and no power. mine are lower end Apex, but the levers have that same effect you show in your video. I was very surprised. BUT This is a common problem. I have read that the latest version of Rival and Force fix this problem, requires new shifter/brake levers though! I had the rear brakes bled and that helped a bit.
i would definitely try rebleeding the system. i’ve had to angle my levers and calipers in many many wierd positions until i was positive all the air was out. it helped alot
you should get contact and light braking/slowing at about 25mm of movement.
The next 12mm should give you firm / heavy braking.
You should have to squeeze the crap out of them to get the lever to touch the handlebars.
Slow lever return seems to be a thing for whatever reason. I had this happen with a SRAM Force D2 lever. I read in [this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1bus1ei/slow_brake_lever_return/) that it could have been an issue with the barb or olive, so I cut the hose a little (luckily I had some to spare!) and fitted a new Stealth-a-majig, and that seemed to “fix” it. I say “fix” because the brakes have never felt fantastic, regardless of how many SRAM technical documents or videos I follow to the absolute letter of the law.
I actually just bought an upgrade kit because people have been raving about the new E1 levers, so hoping that makes things better or else I’m throwing it all in the trash and going back to GRX.
A quick edit: re-reading the linked thread, I suspect my problem might have been related to not having a full 8nm on the compression nut. I used a better torque wrench the second time around.
i don’t know those brakes, but my cable operated spyres will stop me on 9% no problem (although i’m rarely much above 60kmh). i don’t think this is acceptable and i would try another shop (well, tbh, i would bleed them myself).
Watch a youtube tuttorial for bleeding the breaks, I’ve had this happen a few times