Hi Guys,
I have a project going on with restoring an old American Eaqle MTB. I went for a new BB and Hollowtech Cranks and as it's the first time doing that I'm not sure if I did anything wrong.
I have a gap left on the non drive side of the cranks. Chatgpt tells me it's fine, but I can't wrap my head around how the axle is stoppec from moving axially. Is the axle locked inside when the preload is set?
by Perfect_Salamander85
9 Comments
Have you enough spacers to accommodate the length of the crankset axle? Your driveside crank should have more clearance between the itself and the chainstay.
uhm from the limited perspective i dont believe those are hollowtech? that looks like sram dub to me no?
anyways, ai is thrash in so many aspects, dont believe it in anything it says. the gap is not fine and it will move laterally and break. you need spacers, what and how many should be readable in the instruction of you bb.
Fuck ChatGPT
Which *specific* model of crankset is that?
How wide is the bottom bracket shell? Measure it.
Looks like you need a crank spindle with wider spacing to accommodate the width of your chainstays. What crank are you running in the photo?
This crankset has a preload ring that eliminates side-to-side play. Inspect the left crank arm for a threaded ring and a pinch bolt that holds it in place. Turn the preload ring clockwise towards the bottom bracket until it just makes contact with the bearing.
But it looks like you should get a wider crankset. I have this crankset on my road bike. In general, road cranksets have a narrower Q-factor than mountain bikes. The Q factor is the distance between the outside of one crank arm to the outside of the other.
Thanks guys. That’s what I thought. I have a 3d printer on hand, so spacers are no problem. There came 2 2.5mm spacers with the crankset, but those are already mounted.
Can I simply add 2 2mm spacers? It should be fine then according to my measurements. The clearance to the chainstais is about 5mm then.
It’s an evosid crankset for gravel bikes. The q factor is indeed a bit too “flat” I guess.
Sorry, it’s not possible to edit the op: the picture of the driveside was before adding the 2.5mm spacers.
If you think ChatGPT is trustworthy for anything at all never mind anything connected to cycle repair you are way beyond needing our input.