Bikepacking Nordsjö – aller Anfang ist schwer

[English subtitles available] Eine Reise in die Vergangenheit: Die allererste Radreise führte im Jahr 2013 nach Norwegen. Keine Erfahrung, kein Geld in der Tasche, dafür aber jede Menge Übergepäck – ein bisschen Luxus muss ja sein! Eine Reise mit Höhen und Tiefen, jeder Menge Instant-Nudeln und die Geburt einer Leidenschaft…

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It is already several years ago As we were still students, there was a lack of several things: Smartphones experience, and, first of all: money. But with the help of paper maps, Ebay, and self-made stuff my friend Melanie and me could fulfill a dream: Our very first bicycle journey. For that, we had chosen the Norwegian section of the North Sea Cycle Route. Starting in Oslo, we took the train to Bergen via Hardangervidda and from there, we cycled along the North Sea, and finished in Kristiansand. Combining “no money” and “food prices in Scandinavia”, we had to be well-prepared for our trip. Well, let’s see what Melanie had packed. Ice-Tea! – That sounds good! Ice-tea… What else do we have? Fried instant Pasta! How many packages? Instead of saying: “The HARDEST part is getting started” we could say: “The HEAVIEST part is getting started”. Apart from 20 packages of convenience noodles and some luxury products we had packed nearly half of our wardrobes. In case you can still call it “bikepacking” this was the “truck edition”. Melanie is really excited she needs to go to the toilet again and again We were starting our trip. We were both very excited. On the train ride through the Hardangervidda we were overwhelmed by the amazing landscapes. When we arrived in Bergen, we left the city to look for a camp site. The very first time “wild camping”. Comfy! Very comfy! It is already very dark… Wait, I’ll show our nice camp location It’s a little bit… not very flat… As you see, the tent is a little bit slack! Next to us, there’s a highway Obviously it has never been our strong point to find good camp sites. Third day. We had really good sleep, chiefly Melanie had! And she was NEVER frightened that night from noises she heard Yes, cause you hear NOTHING! I slept like a baby! For me, it was okay! It’s been raining cats and dogs for some hours, but it was comfy! What’s your opinion? Yes, it was comfy. Warm. Later. But I was a little scared… The most important thing is: One of us should at least PRETEND not to be frightened. We just reached our next camp site. Amazing view! Down there, there is a small bunker and over there, there is a lake What is not visible: There are many, many flies around! Small side note: We had used the potato bags for transport of our bike bags in the plane. We still were carrying them along, because they had a very important purpose: We used them as carpets inside the tent. Today, we rode 80km! Round about… Maybe 78… 84?! – Maybe even 84km! We don’t know exactly as the speedometer is outside, in the rain. And now, we are staying at a nice place which I showed before We’re going to make soup now for a relaxing end of the day! With regard to physics, you can NOT deny that grade resistance is a lot about weight. Yes, it WOULD have been a good idea to consider this in our packing list. But, we thought the route was flat, as the North Sea is flat and our route was called NORTH SEA Cycle Route. Melanie has written a song, perfect for the ascent: “I’m getting warm again” “That cannot be for real” “that you’re sweating” “the whole day” “Cause I’m getting warm again…” If we had suspected that even riding over bridges feel like riding a Trans-Alp we would have left one or two T-Shirts at home, for sure. I don’t know what’s the reason: In case that you don’t consider the typical wind direction on planning a one-way bicycle trip, the chance to have headwinds should be around 50%. Well, this trip was the beginning of a sample which makes me believing: Headwinds are intentional. Struggling with strong headwinds, we headed for a campsite in Haugesund. Well, we’ve arrived in the storm. Luckily, the ride was not windy (ironical) and tonight, we’ll check if the tent is stormproof. We just had to ask for some more tent pegs Melanie really enjoyed riding against the wind, right? It was great! I’ve never had more fun riding! The best food! My kitchen skills are better than I thought before! It’s gonna be a culinary delight!!! Our student-travel-cuisine consisted of three elements: Noodle-Instant-Meals, bread, and… nut nougat cream. The first chocolate since… since we…yesterday, in the evening… The first PROPER chocolate… That’s the reason why we already had to buy new stuff after only two days. A new glas of chocolate cream… We had no “proper” chocolate! After a headwind-day, you can eat a whole glas of chocolate cream with a spoon. Well, it was quite sunny today but after we’d taken the ferry in the noon, there were REALLY strong headwinds Some time later, I just wanted to throw my bike away because it was really hard! When you have to pedal strongly while riding DOWNHILL cycling is not much fun, you can believe me. But luckily you have Katrin for motivation! Still without chocolate, but this will change tomorrow! Finally, we made the 72km of riding we arrived safe and sound and hope that the night will become better than predicted, and also tomorrow will be better than predicted… Goodbye! Well, he haven’t started riding yet It’s raining cats and dogs! We’re standing in the toilet room, but soon it will be flooded… We’re quite motivated for today… Not so good… Call it as it is: It’s crappy!!! Our rain equipment was not very good. But necessity is the mother of invention. It’s not apparent that you are wearing a garbage bag! We’ve just asked for garbage bags at the reception as the weather is still not the very best… but, we have to go now. So, let’s go! The North Sea has a very rugged coast line in Norway. Many times. you have to take the ferry. In the late afternoon, we took the ferry to Stavanger. We wanted to spend the night in the area, as the plan was to make a detour to the famous Preikestolen the next day. Very professional, the way we pitched the tent! The entrance is right in the nettles! That can always happen. The next morning: After we left our luggage in a locker in Stavanger, we took the ferry for a 40km detour to Preikestolen. With an amateurish view to the blue sky we thought that we were SO lucky with the weather. Yes, it was the time before weather apps were common. Well, our trip to Preikestollen was a great failure… We’ve ridden 20km from the very you can hear thunder The last 5km were only uphill We decided to have lunch now and we’ll try to catch a bus afterwards to get back to the ferry We can forget about this. We’ve just started in Stavanger after a very successful detour to Preikestolen It was a crap! Yes, it was not a very successful day. We rode along the North Sea Cycle Route for a while, and then looked for a camp site. This is the camp site for tonight! SLIGHT slope…. Meanwhile, I know: Slopes with more than 5% are rather MEDIUM slope for sleeping. A dream! – What is a dream? The fragrance from our T-Shirts! Well, I have to prepare my bed! Why is it necessary? Because it is sloping, unfortunately! We have to sleep on an incline plane! It was the final of a really screwed-up day. Not only the trip to Preikestolen had failed Locker, bus and ferry had reduced the budget. And finally, we did not have the view we paid for! That means, we paid… 192 NOK – for NOTHING! No, you have to add the locker! Oh yes, we had to open it twice, because we forgot first the lighter and then my bib shorts I would have died without my bibs! Now we are here, in this beautiful field flat, crooked, sloped… We hope to get at least a few hours of sleep to continue with new energy tomorrow Our ride was 66km today, but I can’t tell you where we are. Good night. Well, good morning! good morning! We’re waiting to head off. – It’s raining again. Something very new. It’s starting again That cannot be true! That it is… raining again!!! That day, we realized, that garbage bags are NOT very breathable. In the evening, we reached Egersund. We reached the camping… what a surprise: As you see, slightly raining again. Like it did the whole day. We’re looking forward to have a hot shower! The showers on camp sites in Norway are really luxurious. Tuesday. We’re on a Kiwi-parking again as we had to buy a whole bread for the day And now, we’re starting our ride – with NICE weather – It hasn’t been like that for the whole day, this morning was strong rain again… so, we’re heading off to: Hauge!!! We had reached the south coast. We recognized, that the south is quite hilly… If you can see it: Slight sweat in my face! Nobody had thought before, that we are in the Alps! That we would reach the high mountain ranges!!! We’ve been riding uphill for… 3km! Pretty steep! But at the moment, it’s okay, we’re nearly on the top. The problem is: The plan was to ride just a few kilometers to find a camp site, but, up here, looking around: Looks bad. If we don’t want slope-sleeping again… We hope to find a spot in the next valley and then pitch the tent there. We arrived at our camp site for tonight! Melli had a great sixth sense again, and found a detour! After the REALLY LONG ascent we were nearly suffering from the mountain climate. It’s colder than usual… Maybe…10°C… I think less… We need to breathe more to get warm! – Good night! It’s wednesday. Noone can say, Norway is always rainy. That’s a good way to wake up! Good morning! Sun is shining! An entirely new feeling! That’s nice! After having passed Flekkefjord the route suddenly turned to a technical trail. No way! I would need my mountainbike! The rain had soaked the trail and it is extremely steep! And very bad surface! As in former times, we only had analog maps, and the route offered more surprises. Our new camp site We did not have much choice so we have to camp next to a gravel road, although we wanted to hide. But it wasn’t possible. So now we’re on that field… …which attracted also other beings. That’s why we call this field: “Mosquitoe Meadow” This is between the inner and the outer tarp, and we hope that they will STAY there! Of course, the attraction of mosquitoes and flies was not due to us. But, just to be sure, we decided to wash. Katrin’s just trying to get some water we’re going to heat it up followed by a little shower ceremony 1 liter of water for two persons That has to be enough! After “Bolognese”, “broccoli” and “arrabbiata” it was time for a new flavour enhancer. Noodles, “Försterinnen Art”! Nothing more to say today, because we are very… tired… and exhausted… We’re just hanging out lazily in this field We’re going to sleep early tonight to get restored for tomorrow, as we want to go to… Lyngdal! See you tomorrow! The sound of the night… How many mosquitoe bites do you have? 24. They’re all itchy like hell! What do you say about the route plan for today? Till now, it is perfect! We’re riding either downhill or on the flat! Some time later: Reading Melli’s mind is NOT recommended. A SLIGHT ascent again… and just a HINT of sweat! Maybe it was the birth of: Hiking holidays with a bicycle. These mountains… Another mountain where you have to push as it is so steep that the front wheel is taking off. Hell, I’m collapsing! We’ll check the sweat: There IS sweat! You see? Due to the necessity of a shower we chose a camping. A suberb camping. It just took some time until I had frightened away all children from the bouncy bubble. They are really crazy! They’re WALKING the North Sea Cycle Route! Camp site for tonight: It took some time to find a spot and it is still not optimal it is sloped again, and rough but we’ll see where we can pitch the tent. A change of plans: As there was a mosquitoe plague on the field we moved to the forest and, as you see at the foil: It’s gonna be a hard night! A bumpy night! The motto of our trip was: Better a branch in the back, than a stick in your backside. So we found a spot, in the middle of a forest look at the difference: my mattress is much higher than Katrin’s the forest ground is higher on my side We’re around 10-12km behind Mandal so after all, we had a riding distance of 60kms today. And tomorrow, we will ride the FINAL 40km to reach Kristiansand and I’m so HAPPY that tomorrow will be the last riding day! And we will arrive!!! And have a shower! It’s gonna be a great party! Now, good night! Today’s the final day, the last stage to Kristiansand We woke up in the rain We had a very… adventureous night little sleep Like that, it is still very early, 8am now. The last stage, I think around 45km. Let’s go! I have to admit: Regarding the mood, the announced “great party” was not yet in sight. The last kilometers were tough. Considering the weather, our trip ended the way it had started. Countdown! 10,5km left! When we finally arrived in Kristiansand in forgiving sunshine we noticed that the “great party” had already started without us. Finally, we are in Kristiansand! We renounced a start at the summer running event. Unfortunately, our packing list did not contain running shoes. The very first cycling trip came to an end. For sure, not everything went according to plan. But we learned, that you can have a great adventure although you have no experience, no money and no professional equipment. I took 3 things from this journey: A little bit of fear a lot of curiosity and plenty of freedom.