Rick Steves Iceland

Rick Steves’ Europe Travel Guide © 2024 | This one-hour special begins in Reykjavík, with endearing sights and thermal pools, plus a side-trip to the Golden Circle’s gorges, geysers, and waterfalls. Then, after fording rivers in a desolate valley and spotting puffins on volcano-shaped islands, we drive the 800-mile Ring Road — connecting glaciers, fjords, geothermal hotspots, sod-roofed settlements, and majestic Icelandic nature.

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Rick Steves, America’s most respected authority on European travel, writes European travel guidebooks, and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio.

00:00 Introduction
02:51 Reykjavík
14:43 Volcanoes and geothermal fields
16:33 Blue Lagoon
18:32 The Pearl
19:54 Golden Circle
28:06 Ring Road
54:30 Conclusion

#ricksteves #ricksteveseurope #iceland

Hi. I’m Rick Steves on the wild
and western fringe of Europe. It’s Iceland–the land
of thunderous waterfalls, fiery volcanoes,
and the midnight sun. With a resilient culture
and epic natural thrills, we’ll see why
this little island is so dang popular. Thanks for joining us! ♪ To fully experience Iceland,
we start in the capital city, Reykjavík, then we day-trip
deep into the blustery interior to sample the power of nature
on the famed Golden Circle, and then we do
the epic road trip: Iceland’s 800-mile Ring Road circling this
unforgettable island. Rick, voice-over:
Reykjavík, with its landmark church,
ruddy urban charm, and determined cultural life
is our springboard. After soaking with the locals
in a thermal pool and enjoying an Icelandic feast, we do the famous Golden Circle
day trip. We’ll see the gorge where
Europe meets America, thrill under
the original “geyser,” and feel the spray of
a thundering waterfall. Then we hit the road–
the Ring Road– and circle the entire island. With help from Cameron Hewitt,
my friend and fellow guidebook author,
we’ll do it all: exploring waterfalls, hiking through steaming
geothermal fields, cruising lagoons bobbing
with icebergs, fording glacial rivers, gathering eggs local style… and wandering evocative
black-sand beaches. We’ll chase rainbows,
elusive whales, roaming horses,
and the cutest puffins. Iceland, about the size
of Virginia with just 400,000 people, sits between
Greenland and Norway. From Reykjavík, after
the Golden Circle day trip, we hit the Ring Road. We explore the South Coast, side-tripping up
Thorsmork valley and sailing
to the Westman Islands. After Vík, we see
glacial lagoons, the rugged Eastfjords, geothermal hot zones
around Lake Myvatn, the fishing village of
Húsavík in the far north, and Snaefellsnes Peninsula
before finishing back where we started. ♪ Reykjavík, by far the biggest
city in the country, is still small–it’s about
the size of Berkeley, or Fargo. With a hard-scrabble heritage
and a vibrant culture, today it offers a tourist-
friendly mix of old and new. Rick, voice-over: While
short on world-class sights, Reykjavík certainly has
an urban vitality, with plenty of restaurants
and shopping to keep visitors entertained. It’s unexpectedly cosmopolitan, with an artistic,
bohemian flair. And it’s blustery. Iceland can be cold
even in summer. This is a typical day
in July…and so is this. If you don’t like the weather,
just wait a few minutes. ♪ Reykjavík’s neighborhoods
are enlivened by street art. A blank wall will just get
tagged with graffiti anyway, so, instead, homeowners hire
talented street artists to create colorful murals. ♪ It seems every street
leads to Hallgríms Church, crowning a hill
in the town center. ♪ Designed by Iceland’s state
architect in the 1930s, the church represents
the national style. Stark and utilitarian,
yet beautiful, it evokes the island’s
volcanic landscape. Stairstepped gables echo
Iceland’s basalt cliffs. ♪ The interior is Lutheran–
serene and austere. The glass is clear,
not stained… and the altar
is a simple table. ♪ An elevator whisks visitors
to the top of the tower for panoramic views
over all of Reykjavík. ♪ Two out of every 3 Icelanders lives within sight
of this steeple. ♪ In front of the church stands
a statue of Leif Erikson. Born here in Iceland,
this Viking explorer is believed to be the first
European to set foot in the Americas–
about 5 centuries before Christopher Columbus. ♪ The modern sculpture called
“The Sea Voyager” is an homage to those
Scandinavian adventurers who, beginning in
the ninth century, loaded up their ships, set sail
into an uncharted ocean, and brought civilization
to this uninhabited island. ♪ Iceland, so harsh and desolate, steaming with volcanoes,
was settled over 1,000 years ago
by early Norse farmers. ♪ Imagine the original
Icelanders– hardy folk eking out a living
on remote farms, living in isolation. They chronicled their lives
in “the Sagas”– a blending of
historical records, tall tales, and legends. ♪ From the age of the Vikings,
the country grew slowly. By the mid-1700s,
all of Iceland still only had about 50,000 people, and
Reykjavík was just a big farm. As trade,
mostly fishing, increased, and towns began to form, Reykjavík emerged
as the capital city. Rick, voice-over: The National
Museum collects artifacts from these early days
of Iceland. A society made of wood
doesn’t leave much behind. ♪ But a few exquisite items,
like these ornamental horns, and these whalebone
carvings, survive. ♪ Pagan Iceland
converted to Christianity in about the year 1000. Until relatively modern times, Icelandic settlers
lived in rustic cottages. Existence may have been bleak,
but families were tight-knit. Many Icelanders lived
simple lives, much like this, until the early 20th century. ♪ Life was tied to the sea. Icelanders sailed in
open boats, fished for cod, and hunted shark for
their valuable liver oil. ♪ More and more, symbols like
an official national costume and its own flag
demonstrated a growing sense of national identity. Iceland remained part of Denmark
through the 1800s. Iceland-born politician
Jón Sigurdsson lobbied in Copenhagen
for independence, which Denmark finally granted
in 1918. ♪ Iceland’s parliament, called
the Althing, may seem humble. But it represents a thousand-
year journey in this society from rustic farmsteads
to today’s modern, democratic nation. ♪ Rick, voice-over: For locals,
Parliament Square remains a place to
make your voice heard… or to just hang out. ♪ Reykjavík still has
a hardworking harbor, busy with both industrial
vessels and sightseeing boats. And, in just
the last generation, boldly modern condos and office
towers show how today’s Iceland is charging into the future. ♪ And a fine example of that is
the super-modern concert hall, called Harpa. ♪ In the lobby, the sky reflects
like you’re inside a giant honeycombed prism. ♪ This extravagant use
of space and glass put Iceland on the world’s
architectural map when it opened in 2011. Welcoming the public, a hit
with locals and tourists, and busy with
conferences and concerts, Harpa is the hub
of the country’s cultural and community activity. ♪ This island is proud of
its homegrown artists, especially the sculptor
Einar Jónsson, who in the early 1900s
was inspired by Rodin. ♪ A welcoming sculpture garden is filled with his bronze works. Inside the Einar Jónsson museum are the plaster originals. Jónsson’s works
are intense and emotive. You’ll see Viking warriors… bold explorers… protective women… and lots of drama. He blended
elements of Christianity, Old Norse legend,
Greek mythology, and his own belief
that every person contains at least
a kernel of goodness. A visit here reminds us that
even small countries produce talented artists,
like Jonsson, worth getting to know. For a peek at the city’s
everyday charms and more insight
into the culture, I’m joined by local tour guide
Saga Fridriksdottir, a Reykjavík native who loves
showing off her hometown. Saga, I love Iceland, but this
language is impossible for me. I mean, how can
any tourist remember that? Saga: Oh. Well, I mean
Skolavordustigur. Rick: Skolavordustigur. Saga: Yeah, it’s pretty hard,
but you know, we all speak English as well. Rick: Thank goodness. This street makes me happy. Saga: Very happy.
Very colorful. Dedicated to gay pride. But also a reminder
that Iceland is much for, just equality and human rights. And this is always
Rainbow Street. Rick: Nice.
Saga: Yes. Rick: So, in the summer,
days are very long, but in the winter…what is
it like in the winter? Saga: Well, cold
and very, very dark. But we have these beautiful,
colorful houses that really characterizes
Reykjavík. They brighten up
our days in winter. And also, you notice we have
a lot of corrugated iron that clothe these wooden houses,
which was a revolutionary material because
it protected the houses from this crazy
Icelandic weather. Rick: I’m sure historically,
this is a society that has dealt with hardships. Saga: Oh, yeah, for sure.
Definitely. But we have a strong mentality
and there’s actually a saying in Iceland:
Thetta reddast. Rick: Thetta reddast.
Saga: Thetta reddast. And it basically just means,
“It’s going to be fine. Don’t worry about it.
It’s gonna work out.” Rick, voice-over: On weekends,
the downtown flea market is a characteristic
and mostly local shopping scene. This is really a fun place. Rick, voice-over: And don’t miss
those famous Icelandic sweaters. Rick:
I don’t do a lot of shopping, but when it comes to the Nordic
countries, I like a sweater. Oh, that’s beautiful.
So, Saga, this really
feels like good wool. Saga: I mean,
we consider it to be the best wool in the world. Rick: This is like
Icelandic sheep. Saga: Proper Icelandic
sheep wool, yes. Rick: And what–is it special? Because it feels
a little special. Saga: Well, I guess because
they’ve been roaming freely in Iceland since 874. They know how to deal with
rough Icelandic weather, and they give us
the perfect clothing for that. Rick: Oh, yeah.
Do you think it’s good? Woman: Yes.
Saga: It’s very good. Rick: I like it because
it feels it has history. Woman: It’s warm and good.
You see you. Saga: Wow.
Rick: Oh, look at that. Yeah. Saga: You look like a local. Rick: I feel like a local.
I can speak Icelandic. Saga: Yes.
[Rick laughs] Rick, voice-over: The flea
market is also a place you can sample
some unique tastes. As the early Icelanders
settled this untamed island, they resorted to many
“hardship foods.” Rick: So,
when we come to Iceland, everybody has to try the shark. Saga: They have to
try the shark. Definitely. I mean, this is the famous
Greenland shark. Rick: This is shark.
Fermented shark. Saga: Fermented shark. Yeah.
Because if you would eat the shark straight away,
you know, when it’s fresh, you would die, unfortunately. Rick: You would die?
Saga: Yes, it is toxic. Rick: So, how did
you ferment this? Saga: So, you chop it in pieces, you bury it in the ground
for some time, and then hang it up,
and you get rid of the, the ammonia, or, like, the urine, basically,
which is the toxins. And I always think, like,
how many tries did it take to figure out
this method of, like, not getting killed
by eating the shark? Rick: That just
stokes my appetite. Is it possible to try some? Saga: You have to try it.
There’s some pieces here. Rick: Good. I’m gonna put
this piece of shark down. Saga: And this is usually how
it comes, like in small pieces. So, you’re more than welcome
to have a piece or two, if you fancy it. [Rick laughs] Saga: Give it a good chew. Rick: Wow. Now, that is very
fishy right now. Saga: Yes.
Wait for the aftertaste. Rick: Yeah. My goodness. Now it’s like it just got swept over with–with ammonia. Saga: Right. And usually you’re
supposed to drink it with the Black Death schnapps–
Brennivín. Rick: Some fire water.
Saga: Yes, please have some. Rick: Oh, baby,
that is…unforgettable. Saga: Yeah. But now you tried
the famous Icelandic shark. Rick: The aftertaste…
I just feel like I’ve been in a gas station
or something. All: 1, 2, 3, go! Iceland is a volcanic island.
it’s formed at the rift where the European
and North American tectonic plates
are pulling apart. That’s why there’s a chain of
active volcanoes, hot springs, and steam vents like this cutting right through
the center of the country. Rick, voice-over:
Visitors come to Iceland hoping to see
a volcanic eruption. But big, dramatic eruptions, that casual visitors
can actually get up close to and see,
are very rare. ♪ But exploring this island
does come with plenty of steamy serendipity. Like roadside attractions,
bubbling mud holes gurgle with molten muck. Vents spew steam, and as the
fog clears from your glasses, suddenly you’re
interested in geology! The entire island is shaped
by lava from past eruptions. Dark, chunky lava rock
blanketed by cushy moss covers much of Iceland’s
surface, giving the countryside a desolate, almost lunar feel. ♪ And the Icelanders have
ingeniously harnessed their endless supply
of green energy. Geothermal plants,
in the middle of nowhere, are hard at work, boring
deep into the earth’s crust to tap into hot water. And pipelines carry that
super-heated water through miles of countryside
to heat and power Reykjavík and other communities. ♪ Despite the chill,
houses are toasty. In fact, you’ll notice many
small windows propped open. Because that geothermal heat
is so cheap, people don’t even bother
turning down the radiator. They just crack the window. ♪ The most enjoyable use
for Iceland’s hot water is its thermal pools. And the most famous spa is
45 minutes outside Reykjavík: The Blue Lagoon. Years ago, a geothermal
plant began dumping its hot, mineral-rich waste water
into this lava landscape. Locals discovered it was
a great place to take a dip. Developers then transformed it
into a high-end spa. Today, Iceland’s
top tourist attraction is close to the airport and a popular first or last
stop for visitors. The Blue Lagoon is a lavish spa, but it’s extremely touristy and you sure won’t meet
many Icelanders here. But the good news: you have
plenty of alternatives that are just as relaxing–
the community thermal pools. ♪ The Blue Lagoon is popular. But it’s expensive—
about 10 times the cost of a pool like this. You can luxuriate
in the Blue Lagoon or you can soak with the locals
in a neighborhood pool. The choice is yours.
Today, I’m soakin’ local. Rick, voice-over:
Fed by natural thermal springs, the main pool is bathwater-warm. Waterslides, cascades,
and kids’ zones keep locals entertained. This is where Icelanders
meet up after work to connect with
friends and family. I can’t think of a better way
to meet the locals. And for the ultimate
in relaxation, hundred-degree hot pots
simmer nearby. Soaking together is
a great equalizer. Student, truck driver,
doctor, and tourist– everybody’s equal in the pool. ♪ Iceland is all about
the great outdoors. But if the weather’s bad,
as it often is, several indoor sights
here in Reykjavík offer a taste of
the majesty of Iceland without leaving
the capital city. Rick, voice-over: At the edge
of town is a one-stop way to experience this country’s
top natural wonders, at least virtually,
under one roof–The Pearl. Exhibits feature
fiery volcanoes, with majestic footage
that gives a sense of awe, birds perched precariously
on towering cliffs, and a 300-foot-long ice cave. It’s a primer
on Icelandic nature, especially worthwhile for those
without the time or money to see the real thing. The most elusive natural
thrill is the Aurora Borealis. In summer, when it’s too light
to see these Northern Lights, you can step into
the planetarium to get a sense of this
fabled phenomenon. But of course,
there’s nothing like experiencing the real thing. Remember, even if
you come in the winter solely for the Northern Lights, there’s no guarantees
of seeing them. But if you do see
those ethereal lights dancing in the sky,
the experience will stay with you
for the rest of your days. ♪ The weather’s great,
and from Reykjavík, we’re making the classic
150-mile day-trip loop: the Golden Circle. Within minutes, we’re immersed
in Iceland’s iconic wide-open spaces and enjoying
the dramatic scenery of this island’s
natural wonders. Today, we’ll see gorges,
waterfalls, geysers, and more, with epic views
all along the way. By the way, most people do this as a day-trip on a tour bus. But we’re driving. Rick, voice-over:
Our first stop is Thingvellir. This national park is
important to Icelanders for two reasons. First, at this gorge,
you can see the rift that marks that slow
separation of tectonic plates. Walking along this fissure
in the earth’s crust, travelers sense this meeting
of two continents: America on the left,
Europe on the right. And second, Thingvellir,
which means “Assembly Plains,” was the site of
the original Althing, an annual gathering
of early settlers. This is where the nation
of Iceland was born. 1,000 years ago,
chieftains from isolated farms all over the island
traveled great distances to meet right here every summer
and make important decisions. In an age when almost
no one could read or write, each meeting began by reciting
the memorized highlights from last year’s gathering. Rick, voice-over:
History aside, Thingvellir is inviting for a nature walk. In this evocative spot,
waterfalls tumble and the river flows as geology
does its slow-motion dance. ♪ Just up the road
is a geological site actually called Geysir. This geothermal field–
colorful and steamy with scalding water–is home
to the original geyser, which means “gusher”
in Icelandic. The site is otherworldly
as pools bubble and steam fills the air, all with a whiff of sulfur. But the big show is
the central geyser. ♪ Tourists line up, cameras
poised with anticip–ation… ready to capture the moment. They wait…
and wait…and wait. Sometimes they wait so long,
the weather actually improves. And then, suddenly,
with a gurgling belch the geyser explodes…rocketing
skyward and thrilling the crowd. [Indistinct chatter] ♪ As you drive the Golden Circle, remember to slow down
and enjoy the scenery. And it’s not just about
the famous natural sights. Along the way,
you’ll see slices of Iceland’s unique agriculture. ♪ With its efficient greenhouses, even with the lack
of good topsoil and its difficult weather, Iceland grows plenty of
tasty vegetables. The climate is harsh
for conventional farming. But its expertise in
greenhouse technology and in putting geothermal
energy to good use yields an abundant harvest. ♪ For lunch, we’re stopping
at a working farm. It’s clear that
frugal farmers here are tapping into
the tourist boom. This family now serves
hungry sightseers. The soup bar is
a budget standby: it’s all you can slurp,
with fresh-baked bread and a glass of water
and a cup of coffee. You can finish with
a farm-fresh dessert with a special twist: the cows
actually watch the diners enjoying ice cream made
from their very own milk. ♪ For generations, this family
has raised horses. Horse lovers know that
Iceland’s local breed is special. Small and sturdy, these were
first brought over by Vikings in the Settlement
Age, 1,000 years ago, chosen because they could fit
inside the hold of a ship, yet they were strong enough
to work hard once they arrived. Throughout the country, you’ll
see these wind-blown beauties. A long-established ban on
importing other breeds means that today’s Icelandic
horses are purebred and unique. ♪ They also have a distinctive
gait that thrills equestrians. ♪ The final stop on our
Golden Circle loop is one of the most
impressive waterfalls in a country
famed for waterfalls: Gullfoss–the Golden Falls. The churning glacial river
plummets into a narrow gorge. Up close, the cauldron
comes with a deafening roar. And even from high above, visitors feel
the spray, wonderstruck. Gullfoss is just one of
many waterfalls Iceland has to offer. But if you only have time
to see one, this is it. It’s rare anywhere on earth to
find such a dramatic display of water and gravity. ♪ Gullfoss is one of those
places Iceland specializes in, where you feel
the raw power of nature. It’s the perfect climax
to a Golden Circle day. Rick, voice-over: And the final
leg of the Golden Circle takes us across a vast
volcanic plateau. From this lonely lunar
landscape, we’re just 30 minutes from
downtown Reykjavík, and, as it happens,
it’s time for dinner. Eating in Iceland is expensive. Thankfully, you’ve got
a range of options, from fish and chips
to fine French cuisine. If you’re willing to pay for it,
you can eat really well. And tonight, we’re
enjoying a splurge. Rick, voice-over: This trendy
restaurant features traditional local ingredients
but with a modern twist. You’ll find the staples
you’d expect, like lamb and fish. ♪ While the perpetual flames of
the kitchen kick out plenty of meat for carnivores, it always has
a vegetarian option. I’m dining with my
travel buddy and fellow guidebook author Cameron Hewitt, and we’re starting our meal
with Arctic char and langoustine lava rocks,
served on a lava rock. Cameron: So, the inside is
langoustine, which are kind of like little super–
super-sized shrimp. Rick: It’s like it’s tempura,
but they… Cameron: They made it look
like lava rocks on lava rock. Rick: Actually cooked
in a lava flow. Cameron: Yeah. [Laughs]
Rick: That’s good. Cameron: Arctic char, which is
kind of like–tastes like salmon, sort of pink fish. Has mustard seed
and dill on top. Rick, voice-over: If this
seems fancy, it is. Iceland, while expensive,
is a place to invest in a memorable meal. Rick: It’s going to cost you
a fair amount anyway. So, you go just a little
bit more, you can have this. Cameron: Yeah,
that’s what I think. You save up and eat groceries for a few days and then
splurge for a meal like this. Rick, voice-over: For our
main course, we’re having some of those staples. Cameron’s having the salted cod and I’m going for
the lamb chops, but with sauces and presentation the Vikings wouldn’t recognize. Rick: I think they know
many ways to do cod here, I would imagine. Cameron: Yeah, it’s very good. Rick, voice-over: To drink,
I prefer something domestic– and this island definitely
doesn’t produce any wine. Instead, it’s a local microbrew. Finally, it’s
profiteroles for dessert. With this, that fermented
shark is a distant memory, and that is certainly
worth paying a premium for. From here in downtown
Reykjavík, we’ll drive 800 miles all the way around
Iceland’s Ring Road. Which highway?
Highway 1, of course. You can’t get lost. Rick, voice-over: On the first
leg is Iceland’s South Coast. Just two hours from Reykjavík
and we’re already deep in the thrills,
chalking up the experiences people visiting here dream of. Driving the entire Ring Road
takes about 30 hours non-stop. To do it justice, you need
at least 5 or 6 days. You can go in either direction– we’re going counter-clockwise– and it’s summertime, so,
it stays light really late. Rick, voice-over:
Seljalandsfoss–one of Iceland’s most accessible waterfalls–
is a favorite stop. The water tumbles
more than 200 feet from cliffs high above,
like a bridal veil. On sunny days, the scene is
like a party as everybody is suddenly waterfall crazy
and connoisseurs of rainbows. ♪ Late in the day,
with the setting sun, everyone’s a photographer. A slippery trail leads up
behind the cascading water and back here,
the energy is palpable. And rain parkas
get a good workout. ♪ Here in Iceland, we experience
both the power of nature and the beauty of nature. Rick, voice-over: This country
is expert at monetizing its stunning nature–making
the great outdoors accessible. Each morning, rugged vehicles
load up with tourists and head for the backcountry. We’ve hired one of
these enormous trucks with a driver, eager
for a thrilling experience. We’re heading up a remote and
rocky valley called Thorsmork. Even in this
land of superlatives, Thorsmork is one-of-a-kind. Venturing far beyond where
normal cars can tread, it’s a land of super-vehicles. But it’s still accessible. There’s even a public bus
service up this remote valley. All must have tires that deflate with the push of a button
for extra traction. “Super-jeeps” and buses alike, equipped with these
monster tires, churn through rivers of
glacial melt, giving all on board
a tale to tell. ♪ People come to hike. Remote lodges
provide simple bases. Up here, nature is
a great equalizer as everyone is psyching up… prepping to create
that lifetime memory. And hikers appreciate
the portable footbridges. They come with wheels to be
repositioned each season depending on where
the river flows. Charging deeper and deeper
into the valley, I keep thinking the off-road
prowess of our vehicle would make for a great TV ad. ♪ Finally, after parking our
super-jeep, we actually work up a sweat
with a short hike. Feeling small in this
primeval setting, we’re humbled at the majesty
of what surrounds us. ♪ And glaciers, reaching down
from the mountains, remind us of Iceland’s
snowcapped rooftop. The black on the ice is ash.
It’s from volcanic eruptions. Could be fresh,
could be very old. Rick, voice-over:
Nature is dynamic here. It’s unpredictable.
It changes without asking. Savoring this moment,
it occurs to me, this is Europe, wilder than
I’ve ever experienced. ♪ Highway 1 laces together
a steady parade of side-tripping options. Each detour comes with
a convenient lesson in the local history, and a schematic map
locating every farm, place to eat or sleep, and point of interest on that smaller road. Like any road trip,
doing the Ring Road requires multiple
one-night stays. There are plenty of
accommodation options. They range from big boxy
hotels to pre-fab cabins, tight little yurts,
remote hostels, and camping. Many enjoy a camper van
or pitching a tent. Efficient and scenic
campgrounds help budget travelers both save money
on hotels and meals and enjoy a wonderful circle
of new friends. ♪ It’s been a long day
of sightseeing for us. Time to settle in. Like with so many farms,
this family is meeting the new demand, housing more
tourists and fewer animals. The welcome is warm. Rick: I’m Rick Steves. Man: Hello, Mr. Steves.
How are you today? Rick: I’m good.
It’s nice to be here. Rick, voice-over: The rooms are
simple, but plenty comfortable. ♪ And the views are…Icelandic. ♪ A major stop on
the Iceland grand tour is the Westman Islands,
just a 40-minute ferry crossing from the South Coast. ♪ While locals sit inside,
tourists soak up the view as we approach the craggy
group of islands. ♪ The ferry squeezes
into the harbor. And tucked into the shelter
of the cliffs, our port comes into view. The Westman Islands’ only town
is a fishing community surrounded by sea cliffs
and a rugged terrain shaped by eons of
volcanic eruptions. Sightseeing boats are
dwarfed and outnumbered by a fleet of fishing boats. Visitors strolling
the boardwalk sense how fishing is big in this country, and the Westman Islands fleet
is the leading producer. ♪ Main Street has
most of the commerce. And it leads past inviting
neighborhood lanes to a classic Icelandic church. But the island is best known
for a fiery eruption in 1973 when its volcano blew. It was a massive event. The island actually
increased in size. The town’s Volcano Museum
tells the story. One frightening night,
the slumbering volcano above town rumbled
violently to life. Everyone evacuated by morning,
but for months, molten lava flowed,
slowly creeping closer and closer
to the town center. ♪ The museum’s centerpiece
is an actual house that was completely
engulfed by the lava. ♪ 50 years ago, this was
an oozing wall of red-hot molten lava. It was a slow-motion disaster
gradually consuming the town. Thankfully,
it stopped right here. Rick, voice-over: Back at
the harbor front, we’re catching a mini-bus tour to get
a more personal take on that terrifying eruption
and to explore the island. Local guide Ebbi was
born and raised here, knows the island,
and is ready to roll. We’re driving on lava left
from the 1973 eruption. Ebbi: So, you know,
good things, bad things with this–this huge
eruption like this. Now, nobody died
because of the eruption, which is a very good thing. We’ve gained also about 20%. The island increased
in size about 20%. Rick: And you’re more
famous for tourists now. Ebbi: Well, yes,
it got us on the map also. Underneath us are streets.
50 meters down underneath us, we have streets, we have houses. Actually, not far from here
is my grandparents’ house. And right here below
is one of our schools. This marking here is
a memorial about a house underneath here from
a wealthy fisherman. Rick: This house
was straight down? Ebbi: This house
right underneath us here. And everywhere on this lava,
we have these wooden crosses, like this one here, for example. This is called “Landagata.” One of many streets
that went under. Rick: So, that’s
the name of a street? Ebbi: There’s the name of
the street right underneath us. Rick, voice-over:
The town side of the lava ridge has additional examples
of what was lost and reminders of how
the entire town could have been consumed
by the lava flow. ♪ With Ebbi’s help, we learned
about the island’s long Viking history
and the hardships of living on an isolated island so long
ago here in the far north. Early settlers soon learned
that on such a harsh volcanic island
with poor farmland, you have to come up with some
creative ways to feed yourself. Ebbi: We have never been
any kind of farmers because we’re a volcano island,
but we had to eat. We have fish, plenty of fish, and the only wildlife
we have here are the birds. So, we would eat the eggs. We collected eggs
because of survival. Rick: The nests are
on the cliff. How did they harvest the eggs? Ebbi: So, you will have to
come down in a safety rope and you learn how to
collect the eggs here. And we swing over to where
we want to go to collect the eggs,
and we swing back. And that is also
a safety reason. So, if birds are attacking
you, you can swing away. Rick, voice-over: We moved
to another cliff to learn how the tradition of
egg collecting, or sprangan, is passed on to
the next generation. Rick: Do people still know
how to do this practice? Ebbi: Absolutely.
This is a traditional thing that every local kids
will learn. We start at age of
8 or 9 years old. Like this girl here,
she’s about 13 years old. Both boys and girls
will learn this. This is a traditional thing
that every local kid learns. Literally, your grandfather
or grandma will show you
literally the ropes. And this is the first thing
you learn before you go up
and collect the eggs. First you learn sprangan. Then you learn how
to collect the eggs. It’s not a matter
of “we have to.” It is a matter of
not forgetting how it was, how we had to
collect the eggs for survival. The rule is, if there are
four eggs, you can take two. If there are three eggs,
you can take one. You always leave two eggs behind because we don’t want to
damage the bird colonies here. And we’ve been doing
this for 1,000 years. Still we have
all the birds here, so, we must be
doing something right. Rick, voice-over:
And as if to prove his point, Ebbi takes us to
a thriving puffin colony popular with birders
and tourists alike. Ebbi: So, this location here is the biggest
puffin colony in the world. Now, people come here to
see the puffins, of course. The puffins, they live
in the ocean for eight months. And they’re only here
during the summer just to do that one thing. And that is to make that one egg a year that they make. They make one egg
per year, per couple. Now, the…half of the colony
is right now underneath here. There are thousands of birds sitting, taking care of the egg. Right now.
Underneath us right now. Rick: Under us.
Ebbi: Underneath us. Everywhere is a burrow
where they’ve digged in and they have this, like
an apartment, kind of. And half of the colony
is outside and out in the ocean
getting fish, and the other half is
taking care of the eggs. And people all around the world come to see the puffins,
of course. And they come here. ♪ Rick, voice-over: Back on
the mainland, we’re continuing around the Ring Road. And there’re lots more
dramatic natural sights. From this rugged promontory,
on a clear day, you can see virtually
the entire South Coast. ♪ And just below is one of
this volcanic island’s many black sand beaches. Travelers are enthralled
by this fantastical landscape. ♪ Sea stacks
rise out of the briny waves. Basalt formations bring out
the kid in every adventurer. ♪ A windy walk immersed
in this pristine beauty can be unforgettable. Marking the end of
the South Coast, the village of Vík
is the southernmost settlement in Iceland. Vik is both humble and sparse–
little more than a practical pit stop
for travelers. And for this village,
that’s nothing new. Historically,
there was no harbor. A century ago, before
the arrival of the road, provisions came in by boats
beached on this shore. What we’ve done so far,
with Cameron Hewitt, who co-authors guidebooks
with me, is all within day-tripping distance
from Reykjavík. Rick: Reykjavík is 3 hours
that way, or 6 days that way. I’m heading straight back
to work on the book. But we’ll follow
Cameron and the crew as he does his research
the long way around. We’ll meet up back in Reykjavík. Rick, voice-over: Leaving Vík,
the traffic thins out and the landscape opens up. We’ve just left Rick
in Vík, and now we’re continuing around the Ring Road. And, you know, already
the terrain is changing and the weather is changing. In fact, Iceland
is always changing. That’s why it’s so important
for us to go and travel in person to update our
guidebooks to make sure we have
the very latest information. Rick, voice-over: The next stop
is glacier country. 1/10 of Iceland is covered in
glaciers, and the biggest one spreads across the top
of these mountains. Its many outlets–called
tongues–reach down and lap at lowland valleys. The road crosses vast plains
of glacial grit and gravel, laced with milky rivers. ♪ At the foot of some glaciers
are lagoons bobbing with small icebergs
that have broken off. Lagoon cruises take
tourists out on these moody and beautiful waters. ♪ Passengers gear up
in heavy jackets and prepare for the adventure. They climb into
inflatable boats and then float through
this dreamy landscape. It’s an unforgettable
experience, no matter the weather. Our enthusiastic guide offers a lesson in glaciers 101. Man: Then, of course, there’s
the white ice and the blue ice. Rick, voice-over:
He explains how and why there are different colors
of ice. There’s black ice,
which is coated with dirt or volcanic ash. Then there’s white ice, which
is packed with air bubbles. Transparent ice
has fewer air bubbles. And then blue ice, which is
highly compressed and dense, has no air bubbles at all, and reflects
blue light intensely. Travelers get the chance
to hold a chunk of ice that originally fell
as snow…500 years ago. The guide explains how glaciers
naturally grow and recede. In fact,
this glacier used to extend all the way across the lagoon
at the end of the 19th century but has been retreating now
for over 130 years. Man: It is absolutely natural,
absolutely normal that at some points,
the glaciers are growing. At some point,
the glaciers are retreating. But now the glaciers
are retreating way, way faster
because of global warming. Rick, voice-over: Even from
the shore, people marvel at how glacial ice comes in
a stunning variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. The wind pushes the icebergs
into a traffic jam where the lagoon
meets the Atlantic. Birds and seals feed
in the swirling waters as the icebergs wait for their
final journey out to sea. When conditions are right,
chunks of ice wash up on the nearby black-sand beach. Nicknamed “Diamond Beach,”
it looks like thousands of gigantic gems
scattered over black velvet. Leaving the glaciers behind,
the Ring Road hugs the wild coastline. The churning
North Atlantic surf crashes on deserted beaches
and rocky shores. Soon, yawning bays
grow narrower, becoming the serene fjords
that slice deep into the east coast
of Iceland. Driving along the Eastfjords
is long and slow, but always scenic. ♪ And around each bend unfolds
one grand fjord after another. Tucked away at the deepest
point in one fjord is the colorful village
of Seydisfjordur. This charming place is
a magnet for young artists who appreciate
its majestic setting, vibrant murals, and trendy
places to eat and drink. ♪ It’s a welcome pocket of
quirky creativity in this very remote corner. ♪ Leaving the fjords and turning
inland, the road crosses the vast and arid Highlands. Tucked away in these rocky folds is another iconic waterfall. Arriving at what looks like
just a desolate volcanic landscape,
if you follow the trail, you’ll hear the thundering falls
before you see them. [Water rushing] Dettifoss is this country’s
most powerful waterfall… ♪ with 50,000 gallons of water
every second tumbling through
an awe-inspiring gorge of basalt cliffs. ♪ The falls fill the air
with mist and rainbows… ♪ and fill visitors
with an appreciation for the grandeur
of Icelandic nature. Continuing west,
the barren plateau gives way to the green oasis
of Lake Myvatn. ♪ Ringing the lake
is a wide variety of volcanic landscapes. Compact and accessible,
Myvatn feels like Iceland’s Yellowstone. ♪ Along the lakeshore,
these “pseudo-craters” are giant burst bubbles of
molten rock…stopped in time. At these pinnacles of lava–
called the “Dark Castles”– families and hikers love
exploring a maze of trails between fanciful landforms. ♪ And looming over the lakeshore
is a perfect volcanic ash crater. Bizarrely beautiful,
like visiting a moonscape, it’s one more indelible memory that comes with
driving the Ring Road. Nearby, the geothermal
activity keeps on simmering. Visitors wander through
this mind-bending, almost Martian landscape. Mud puddles bubble and steam. Fumaroles hiss like teakettles. ♪ The terrain is brushed
in vivid colors. And everything reeks of sulfur. ♪ You know,
when you come to a place as unusual as this,
the real challenge for a travel writer
is figuring out how to capture the sort of
sense of awe and wonder, and the essence of a place,
and then translate that into words. Rick, voice-over: Nearby
geothermal plants harness all this volcanic power
for heating and to generate electricity… and even here in the far north, Icelanders use their
endless hot water just for fun. The Myvatn Nature Baths,
overlooking the steamy volcanic landscape, are
a popular place to unwind in warm water tinted
with natural minerals. The landscape changes again
up along the north coast. The Ring Road itself is
a scenic spine around Iceland, but if you just stick
to Highway 1, there’s a lot you might miss. That’s why, if you have
a good guidebook, you’ll know which of
the side trips and detours are most worth the extra miles. Rick, voice-over: And one
of those is Húsavík, with its salty and picturesque
harbor on a protected bay, and a proud fishing heritage. ♪ Today, a stop here
educates visitors about Iceland’s whales. The Húsavík Whale Museum
displays the bones of whales that have washed ashore
from around the island. ♪ The lovingly displayed
skeletons teach visitors about these magnificent mammals. ♪ The star of the show–
an 80-foot-long blue whale, with a rib cage
as big as a truck. For a chance to watch living
whales, out at the harbor, visitors choose between
classic fishing boats or–for
a little more adventure– high-speed inflatables. Whale watchers suit up
and prepare for the journey. Tourists climb on board,
excited for the possibility of a close encounter
with a gentle giant. If they’re lucky, they may
come home with happy memories of breaching humpbacks
and curious orcas. ♪ Continuing across
Iceland’s north, the coastal road curls around
the Troll Peninsula, with sweeping vistas
toward the Arctic Circle. At the tip of
the Troll Peninsula sits the historic fishing town
of Siglufjordur. The mountains at the mouth
of the fjord protect the little harbor. And behind it
is an endearing museum that tells the story
of how, around 1900, this became a boom town
for herring. Visitors learn how these
tough, little boats caught mountains of herring– a nutritious
and highly prized food. This herring harvest powered
Iceland’s fledgling economy through the first half
of the 20th century. Cameron’s learning more
about the story from local guide Edda. Cameron: Tell me, why is it
in this town, why herring? What’s special about
herring to this town? Edda: So, the herring industry
was, for the longest time, one of the biggest industries
in the country, for the most part
of the 20th century. And for the longest time,
this town had the biggest herring port
in Iceland. And we often refer to this
as the capital of the herring. So, we are located in front
of a salting station, and from 1907 until 1968,
herring was salted here. We had the women, the herring
girls, salting and packing the herring into the barrels. Cameron: And so, this,
this table here is exactly where that happened. Edda: Yeah.
So, this is what we call the herring box. And the fishermen
coming into the fjord would start by unloading
the herring into those boxes, and then they would call out
the herring girls for work, and they would take
one herring at a time, cutting the head off
and pulling the guts out. And then they would place
the herring in here. They would do this
until they had almost filled this container. Then, in here, they would
mix it with the salt and then finally stack it
into the barrels. So, this is where the
herring girls would live. The women that would come from
all the places in Iceland just to work here at this
particular salting station. This would be an example
of their bedrooms. Cameron: OK.
How many herring girls would live in a room
about this size? Edda: So, there could be
up to 50 women living in all this,
the whole building. But at the busiest years,
they would have to share the beds, two to a bed. So, there could be
up to 12 women living in a room this size. Cameron: Tell me about
their working hours. Edda: When there was herring
to be salted, they need to be outside working. And so, that meant
that they could be working very long shifts. So, it could be 20-hour shifts, and one herring girl
we interviewed, she said that her longer shift
by the herring box was 34 hours straight. Rick, voice-over:
It’s inspiring to see the thoughtful ways
Iceland preserves and celebrates
its unique heritage. Finishing the loop
and leaving the coast behind, the road swings to the south. Along the way
is another artifact of this country’s
rugged history. ♪ In this land
where trees are scarce, houses were made out of sod. Glaumbaer is a perfectly
preserved turf house dating back centuries. ♪ The grassy roof
waves in the wind as visitors admire the sturdy
herringbone pattern of the stacked-sod walls. Inside, an earthen corridor
connects several rooms. Food was stored
in wooden barrels. In the kitchen, meals were
cooked over a sheep dung fire. The farmer’s family had
a spacious bedroom all to themselves. But the farmhands bunked
in a communal living room. Workers slept two to a bed,
tucked in by a wooden panel carved with prayers. Women, who did the delicate
spinning work, got the bunks near the windows
for the better light. People still
lived here until 1947. Modern as Iceland is today,
many grandparents remember growing up in houses like these. ♪ As the Ring Road winds its way
back toward Reykjavík, there’s time for
one last scenic detour. ♪ A drive around
the Snaefellsnes peninsula offers a wrap-up of Iceland’s
dramatic natural wonders: Iconic peaks, sheltered
fjords, frisky horses, glacier-topped mountains,
swirling sea birds, climbable craters,
and abundant waterfalls. ♪ In short, it’s a microcosm of
all the unique forms of nature that Iceland is famous for. This encore
of Icelandic splendor caps one of Europe’s
great road trips. ♪ After 800 miles, the crew
meets back up with me where we started–in Reykjavík. Rick: Iceland may be a small
country with a small population. Cameron: But it comes with
a powerful sightseeing punch. Rick: I’m Rick Steves.
Cameron: And I’m Cameron Hewitt. Rick: Thanks for joining us. Until next time,
keep on traveling! Rick: Tell me a tongue twister
in Icelandic. Saga: Ah. [Speaking Icelandic] Rick: What does that mean?
Saga: It’s a town. You know, as more and more
people discover this beautiful place,
it’s really more important– than–sorry, there’s a fly
right on my glasses. He was literally–[Laughs] You better not be rolling
with this hat on. [Man laughs]
Man 2: [Indistinct] Rick: There’s a blooper. ♪ ♪