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    Crank not spinning smoothly even after backing off the pre load tensioner , source?


    So I have this e thirteen crank and BB that I am re installing from another bike but it’s giving me trouble

    The BB called for one 2.5 mm spacer on the drive side (for my 73mm bb shell)

    Then I installed the crank and backed off the pre load tensioner fully as per instructions , but the crank doesn’t spin freely and has some slight resistance – what could cause this ?

    The pre load tension mechanism is also a bit crusty as you can see it requires a lot of force for me to twist it and it sounds a bit crunchy. But this can’t be the source of the overly resistant crank, right?

    Thanks for your help

    Crank not spinning smoothly even after backing off the pre load tensioner , source?
    byu/-LetsTryAgain- inbikewrench



    by -LetsTryAgain-

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    6 Comments

    1. Confident-Concern840 on

      Do the bottom bracket bearings spin smoothly? If so then it is likely that the bottom bracket faces on the frame are not perfectly parallel. If you have a local shop with a facing tool they could fix it for you.

    2. moonmarriedacherry on

      Unloaded bearing spins aren’t the be all and end all of bearing tests (they’re basically saying nothing actually).

      But you can check a couple of things:

      1. Check if you’ve greased everything that’s supposed to be greased

      2. Your frame or BB isn’t perfectly straight. Might have to get it faced

    3. OD32 on

      Is the BB new or used? How do the bearings feel without the cranks with your finger? If the BB is new they don’t always spin freely from the get go.

      Did you clean the APS adjuster? I have a different model and can take it fully apart to clean the tread etc. There is also a little teeth/spring mechanism in the APS that makes sure it does not unthread. As the ring you twist sounds metal this might be the clicking you hear

    5. Azmtbkr on

      That looks normal to me, modern bottom brackets are packed with thick grease and have seals to keep gunk out, both of which produce drag. As long as there isn’t any uneven binding or scraping I would send it.

    6. Programmer-Severe on

      Within normal bounds for me. If the bearings are full contact seals they’ll drag like this, especially when new. Maybe the faces aren’t square – this might shorten the bearings’ life a bit. As long as it feels smooth, the actual loss in watts will be pretty unnoticeable

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