Hey folks, I’m in the middle of building up my first old MTB project. I picked up two broken bikes on the cheap (one’s a Trek 830 Antelope, 91–93 I think?) plus another frame with a sweet golden fork and some extra parts. The goal is to turn it into a super comfortable gravel rig.
I’m already halfway through the 1×11 conversion, cassette’s on, and the rest of the parts are ordered and on the way.
Here’s my concern: the head tube where the fork sits looks a bit sketchy to me. It’s quite short and the angle seems really steep. Makes me wonder if it’ll actually handle the stresses of real riding. Has anyone built something similar? Ever seen a steel frame like this crack or bend?
Once the build is finished, I’ll share some proper pics. Sorry for the crappy photo quality for now this Samsung is on its way out anyway. For context, I already ride a full carbon gravel bike and do decent mileage, but I want a winter bike for Germany so I don’t risk trashing my main ride.
Appreciate any input!
by valek8
16 Comments
I think I’d worry less about the stress on the headtube and more about the geometry change, because it seems like the fork increased your axle to crown distance quite a bit.
Also, the combination of front-disc- rear-rim-brake will probably be a little weird, especially with a suspension fork. I’d at least get a Magura or Avid Arch rear-brake for it, to have less difference in stopping power.
As someone who’s super hard on all of my trek MTBs and even road stuff, I’d be pretty apprehensive about sending something on this. Then again with that geometry I don’t see much of that really happening.
Dad you’re drunk, go home.
Bike projects are cool but unless you have fucking short legs or fucking long arms, with the geometry that wonky (frame rotated way backwards) you are sitting in a different postal code than the handle bars. But at least you’re adding even more reach with the drop bars.
I know this sounds snarky but I cannot see that bike riding well. You need a fork with a shorter a2c and you need to bring the bars up and back a good bit unless you have really peculiar build.
Just throwing this out there, maybe you could find a suspension fork made for kids bikes, like for 24 or 20 inch wheels, that could shorten the axle to crown ratio and make the front end a bit less steep? Suspension forks for kids bikes are surprisingly good nowadays, durable, lots of adjustability etc. You would need a new wheel though. I’m not sure if that would even help or not, just a guess. Also it would likely be “less aesthetic”, but isn’t that what xbiking is?
Honestly I think it looks super cool! Geometry is way different than most rides, but I say try it out and see what you think. Your body will tell you if it’s good or bad. Isn’t that what they did to make mountain bikes in the first place? You never know until you try.
Safety wise, if you feel like testing your luck, then go for it. Depending on what terrain you want to ride, you might be alright? It’s really up to you and how comfortable you are potentially bending the head tube or getting hurt. I’ve seen a few bent out of round due to loose forks, but I have also had to work chro-moly before and it flexes a surprising amount before taking any bend. It’s a Frankenstein for sure, but that doesn’t mean it’s going to be bad.
Personally, I say try it! It could be a big flop, or it might turn out to be your favorite bike. Just remember..I’m not liable for what might happen. haha
Disgusting, I love it!
This is going to be an unpopular comment:
the 1×11 chainline isn’t great because you are getting into the years where the chain stays are shorter and the top tube longer. It will mostly work. A 2×10 is not popular, but much closer to the original design.
The head angle is typical for the era. You might be running a little longer fork? Not a big deal. If anything, you get a slightly slacker head angle.
You will need a shorter stem unless you have a really long torso.
V-brake rear is good enough. You’ll need to be sure you have the “long pull” brake lever action.
Also controversial, cable actuated disc brakes for the front would get you a “matchy-match” pair of brake levers.
Barcon shifters and long pull road levers the easiest way to put it all together.
If you can max out the forks a bit taller, drop the back wheel to a 20”, BOOM!!
Carolina Squat: X-Bike Edition.
Do it. It looks great
I hate to be yet another comment saying that fork is too long, but it’s true. The fork is so long the bottom bracket is level with the axles. I’ve tried similar things before and they rode like garbage. This frame really needs a 420mm a-c at the absolute most. 400mm would be ideal though.
Bike of the year
As a crackhead cyclist who didnt know what axle to crown length was, I know this will ride like a shit sack horse fart
Get a a couple travel spacers for the air shaft so you can shorten the fork–right now its a chopper. BB is really high–top tube should be dead level. Handling will be very floppy, especially so with the drop bar. Goal should be reducing the travel to 60mm.
All those people with concerns aren’t real xbikers.
Gotta be honest, this is a thing to maybe not do