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    Embarrassed I can’t figure this out

    Frame: LeMond Big Sky (some time in early 2000s?)

    Fork: OEM (bought frame+fork off eBay and it has the LeMond logo and fits perfectly with the oem headset)

    Wheels: ICAN carbon 50mm with 25mm external width

    Tires: Maxxis High Road 25mm (26mm when inflated to 85 psi)

    Brakes: Dura Ace 7800

    Pads: ICAN in-house brand included with wheelset

    Please help if you know what is going on. I was under the impression this fork/frame combo does not need long reach calipers.

    But now I'm not so certain.

    On the rear (no pics), it's just the opposite issue: Drive side pads line up but Non-drive side overlaps rim/tire.

    The calipers are reasonably centered on the fork and frame (haven't set up brifters and cables so I just eye-balled it). Also the pad holders are at the lowest position.

    Any thoughts? Do I need long reach calipers?

    If it's a simple Occam's Razor type of fix, feel free to rib me. But please save the mean comments if at all possible. I'm going through some serious health issues and the thought of a nice retro rim brake bike is one of the few bright spots in my life.

    Thank you

    EDIT: I tightened the hex bolt near the top of the caliper with 3mm. Although I can visually see the calipers being adjusted a little, still the same annoying over lap on the Front Drive and Rear Non-drive.

    by Surfer_2134

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    8 Comments

    1. singlejeff on

      I can’t tell how close to the braking surface the cable side arm is. Try closing the calipers with your hand to see if the pads line up with the brake track better.

    2. SkyyRez on

      I am much more experienced with mountain bike wrenching but it looks like the tire bead is on the outside of the rim instead of seated inside. I have never set up rims with a carbon braking surface so i might be missing something (I have set up 100s if not 1000s of brakes), but the tire seating seems to be awry.

    4. wannabe_biceguy on

      I would first try unscrewing the adjuster bolt. And then try re-centering the calipers. Sometimes those things can get a little funky.

      I’d also be curious if you’re experiencing the same issue in the rear? Are we sure it’s a 700c bike?

      As someone else mentioned, there are different caliper styles for all different bikes. You might want to consider a different pair.

      You might also start plugging way at numbers – how far your brake bolt hole is from the drop outs, what’s the mm difference from center point to brake bed, etc.

    6. puffmoike on

      Seeking clarification (I’m as confused as you): from your photos and question I’m assuming the issue is that the brake pads line up properly with the braking surface on one side of the wheel but not the other.

      If we assume:
      1. The pads are both set to the lowest point on the brake arms
      2. The brake arms are symmetrical (same length)
      3. The brake surfaces of the rim are symmetrical (same distance from the axle)
      4. The brake mounting point of the fork is centred

      then the temptation is to assume you have the calipers rotated somewhat on the fork. But whilst there is no photo from front on so that the rest of us can see this I assume from the detail and tone of the rest of your question that that is not the case???

      So I’m stumped too. (Not much help I know, but I don’t think you’re going mad.)

    7. commonguy001 on

      I think you should try medium reach calipers. The one I see on ebay appears to use mid reach calipers with lots of adjustment slot below the pads.

    8. TheSlayer696969 on

      Can you please take a photo of the caliper head on rather than from the side? Photo directly centered would be ideal so we can assess for any asymmetry. It could help to have such a photo both with and without the wheel installed to see both cases.

      You say the issue is the opposite on the rear caliper—could it that both calipers appear “short” on the “push” arm but normal on the “pull” arm? Perhaps they are set up incorrectly. Note that the arms have pivot points that are asymmetric and this can cause one pad to appear higher.

      Sorry to hear that you are going through some health issues, but glad to hear that you have something bike-related as a bright spot to look forward to 🙂

      Edit: take a look at this, seems like it might be same problem as you and there’s a solution there? https://www.roadbikereview.com/threads/installing-7800-caliper-am-i-doing-it-wrong.283328/

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