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  1. Image one: use vise grips on the larger inner circle (with the indented tabs on it) and loosen. Image 2: use an adjustable wrench, but it’s reverse threaded.

  2. **Your bottom bracket should be English/BSA so just be sure you look up which side threads which way so you don’t tightening when you’re trying to loosen.

    On the non-drive (left) side of the bike, loosen the large outer ring first. The “correct” tool [looks like this](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-5). And then the inner part comes out with a different wrench – the ‘correct’ tool [looks like this](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/adjustable-cup-wrench-hcw-11).

    After you loosen/remove that, the inner part should be easy to remove.

    For the drive-side (right) the ‘correct’ tool [looks like this](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-4)

    You may be able to do it with tools you have at home, but the ‘correct’ ones will make things a lot easier. If you don’t plan on working with a lot of bottom brackets, it might be worth paying a shop to do it so you don’t have to buy new tools. If you do that, have them switch you to a sealed cartridge BB – only one tool for both sides.

  3. Strangely enough if you use the correct tools it’s not too hard a job. If however you try and bodge it through with adjustable spanners or hammer & chisels etc they can be an absolute swine.

  4. Gold_Ticket_1970 on

    Proper wrench. 36 mil i believe. That’s an old 5piece. Serviceable definitely

  5. I didn’t have the correct spline size and walked into my local shop today (they were slow) and asked what spline tool I needed. Brought the bike. Mechanic put in on the stand, gave me constant shit about my bike cleaning, and installed the new one. Refused payment for the install.

    Just FYI – sometimes you need the tool and your local shop has it.

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