I would gamble you’re just not putting enough force, around 40-50 Nm will be needed to remove a square tapered crankset, possibly more if there’s corrosion.
Antti5 on
It can require a lot of force to be applied on the crank puller. Greasing the threads on the puller helps.
Dithappoint on
I torch the crank arm* where it meets the spindle, inside and out for at least a solid minute, Im talking about getting that thing as close to red hot as a little propane torch can get it.
Then, while it’s still hot & with the bike upside down and the crank arm in the air, give the back of the arm a couple whacks with a hammer.
I’ve had crank arms that aren’t budging with half an hour’s worth of baseball swings, just *pop* right off after torching them
That being said, be careful not to burn any paint/plastic/cables or anything, and don’t hammer on the front sprockets if you plan on reusing them, they WILL bend. Most of the bikes I work on are pretty scarred up; I wouldn’t really use this method on a nice/expensive bike.
guidedhand on
I almost destroyed my threads because the tool I had was actually too thick for the hole.
Check for any sign that the head of the tool is deforming the edges of the hole, or use some indicator paint
A rather inelegant solution that does some wear to the components and is mildly dangerous is to ride it carefully round the block without the retaining bolts in and you’ll find pedaling will work it off the taper.
7 Comments
Penetrating oil and a heat gun.
I would gamble you’re just not putting enough force, around 40-50 Nm will be needed to remove a square tapered crankset, possibly more if there’s corrosion.
It can require a lot of force to be applied on the crank puller. Greasing the threads on the puller helps.
I torch the crank arm* where it meets the spindle, inside and out for at least a solid minute, Im talking about getting that thing as close to red hot as a little propane torch can get it.
Then, while it’s still hot & with the bike upside down and the crank arm in the air, give the back of the arm a couple whacks with a hammer.
I’ve had crank arms that aren’t budging with half an hour’s worth of baseball swings, just *pop* right off after torching them
That being said, be careful not to burn any paint/plastic/cables or anything, and don’t hammer on the front sprockets if you plan on reusing them, they WILL bend. Most of the bikes I work on are pretty scarred up; I wouldn’t really use this method on a nice/expensive bike.
I almost destroyed my threads because the tool I had was actually too thick for the hole.
Check for any sign that the head of the tool is deforming the edges of the hole, or use some indicator paint
If the threads are gone (thanks bikewrench !) use this technique https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9n1z2kwmL8o
A rather inelegant solution that does some wear to the components and is mildly dangerous is to ride it carefully round the block without the retaining bolts in and you’ll find pedaling will work it off the taper.