What France Is REALLY Like For Surfing

The is my third time in the South West of France. There are so many reasons I love it here, and each time I come I feel a little more at home. Here’s a short depiction of what it’s like to be here during the top season 🙂

NEW MERCHANIDSE HATS, ZINC AND TECHNIQUE STICKERS – https://kalebrock.com

The Surfer’s Roadmap, my online surfing university designed to progress your surfing – https://thesurfersroadmap.com/

To join me on a surf retreat – https://kalebrock.com.au/surf

Follow me on Instagram – http://bit.ly/kalesbroccoli

Follow The Surfer’s Roadmap on Instagram (dedicated 60 second tutorials etc) – https://bit.ly/3UzXf8u

[Music] this is my third time in the southwest of France there are so many reasons I love it here and each time I come I feel a little more at [Music] home [Music] when I come here I pick one place to stay as opposed to running around between different accommodations of course my life revolving around surfing each time I’ve picked hore as my base I love how it’s encased in forest and everywhere you go there’s something pretty quaint and very French to look at I’ve made some really cool friends here hore is a bit of a mecca for interesting people within the surfing industry so for the last 15 years it’s been basically my home and I love it over here it’s a perfect little surf town it’s really a lot about surfing you see surf shops everywhere surfboard factories no matter what conditions most times you can get a surf in there it’s just a happy little place you [Music] know [Music] n [Music] you put TR Cafe [Music] lat banana bread toasted this is H’s most trendy Cafe I come to practice my French and I know very well how to order a coffee that’s about it I’ve been trying to learn French for the past couple of years and each time I come I feel so much more invigorated to to do it properly it’s just been a time investment that I haven’t really been able to make but um I’m just listening to my audio book now [Music] awful I met Darren here last year he’s an Aussie who came over 25 years ago he speaks fluent French but he’s still sounds like an Aussie besides the big and powerful Peaks at Leno the famous big wave spot in the area it’s his family that have kept him here for 2 and a half decades I wanted to travel Europe and obviously hore was high on the list and without within 2 weeks of being here I met the woman of my dreams 25 years uh marriage today one anniv see [Music] w the seasons are quite drastic here in late summer and Early Autumn which is when I typically arrive the beaches are packed with tourists Surfers and new swell making it often necessary to hike along the beach out of the regular path in order to find some less crowded surf options I thought we’d be paid off with an empty lineup not quite but does look like a relatively easy lineup and lots and lots of waves so that’s always good as Autumn has arrived late in October but with the hinted intensity of the winter inbound the crowds have diminished the beaches are more empty now and the surf if you’re lucky a little more [Music] quiet storms begin to roll in this time of year and persist for days on end only to come to an abrupt halt ahead of the forecast and followed by 3 days of sun A desperate clinging to the warmer months just gone by the magical sandbanks that are built up over the summer get obliterated by the intense battering of new cold weather and so we now tend to drive south to beitz with reefs to rely on you can time it right and snag some really fun waves almost regardless of the conditions an added bonus down here is that we can check out the city this is where the kings and queens of old used to reside and around every corner you see that in the architecture the busyness seems to persist down here regardless of the weather and there always seems to be a wave at the local Beach no matter what the size beitz is pretty dazzling even but Bayon is the perfect way to appreciate the historic quaintness of the area it’s a small town that resides on a river and offers the most picturesque scene to enjoy a drink and a chat after surfing all day no one is getting rowdy everything is very calm and casual and as Daz and I sit and enjoy our last meal together for the trip I appreciate France more than ever I’m feeling called to settle down at home and stay there a lot more these days but I still know I’ll definitely be back to France Al this lash is not flashing but oh my gosh the [Music] food wa wa wa wa