Is this a somewhat universal problem, using drop bar levers with cantilevers and mini-v brakes? They are extremely spongy, not very responsive at all. Using 90mm v-brake, Shimano br-r353. I do have a flat bar bike with the 85mm v-brakes, tektro rx-1, at my parents house so I can try swapping at some point in the future to see if that helps. But I also set up a Fuji touring with drops and cantis recently and the brakes work just ok but not great.. I think I am using the right housing, compressionless (woven, I think). Any tips to make my brakes work better? Thanks
by bikinibottomrealest8
18 Comments
You need to buy a pair of V-Brake specific levers that have the longer cable pull required for V-Brakes.
SJS Cycles in the UK have a good selection of V-Brake specific levers: [https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers-v-brake/](https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers-v-brake/)
if you want to keep the levers you have then you’ll need a V-Brake apater like this:
[https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325167332191?chn=ps&_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325167332191?chn=ps&_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item)
Sheldon Brown (RIP) has a great article explaining the differences between cantilever and direct pull (V-Brake). It includes the workarounds:
[https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html](https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html)
https://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel-agent
Unrelated to the post, but I dig your speedy lawn tractor.
Cantilevers are tricky to set up, but powerful once done correctly. Sponginess means power with them though, a hard lever feel indicates a weak brake.
Not tried mini-V brakes, can’t comment there on lever feel.
no salmon (pads), no luck
On the Fuji bike, you can use [brake boosters](https://www.gringineer.com/gorilla-brake-beefer-brake-booster.html) to decrease the deflection of the seat stays & fork blades. They work really well.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
For the cantis, try moving the straddle cable yoke down. That will give you more leverage / stopping power
Are they spongy when testing them? How well do they slow the bike down?
I see your update. I did it before and the adjustment took a lot of trial and error but it can be done. eventually just went with the bullhorns with the levers at the top of the horns.
https://preview.redd.it/48h069vj6hif1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=adcba2f112fae57f28feab16a66b9d49d058c345
The R353 are amongst the best and have amazing stopping power even with normal housing.
Compression-less housing will make it feel sharper.
I wanted stronger brakes on a build for my son so I tried out Magura HS-33s after researching your question forever. Insanely strong, but admittedly pricey.
Kool Stop salmon pads
Yokozuna for me when I use drop bar levers and v-brake or canti. That takes out almost all the slop.
Just did a dropbar ultegra sti conversion using 110mm vbrakes and using litepro stroke converters (Ali copies of problem solvers) work pretty well no rubbing and plenty of power without hitting the bars. Although i kinda wish I had gone with cantis because I prefer the look
FWIW, unless I’m misremembering, shimano lists those brakes as incompatible with their brifters for whatever reason.
I’ve seen Avid oryx with pads F+R CX style cantilever in both black or silver for stupidly cheap.. would solve lots of problems once setup.
put all the spacers on the other side of the pads and increase cable tension.