Guys, I am so desperate.
I just got this new torque wrench, thought I'd check all srews on my bike.
Unfortunately the wrench was bad manufactured, even though it's a Makita.
I applied way too much torque on one srew holding the saddle. It broke.
Worse is, that I realized, I put too much torque on the seatpost screw as well. Probably 20Nm instead of 5Nm.
From the outside everything looks fine. But idk if the frame is damaged now.
From the inside you can see two milky spots, which looks like micro fractures in the carbon to me. Can't see how the area around the seatpost screw itself looks. It's covered by this plate.
What am I supposed to do?
by Specific_Active8128
8 Comments
Can you still fit a seatpost in or is it hitting into the dent
Update:
I used an old toothbrush and cleaned it. White spots are gone now.
Did a knocking sound check and it seems to be alright. At least to my amateur ear.
Glad it seems fine.
Just out of interest, what is wrong with the wrench? Makita is strong brand, would not expect anything like that.
I have no idea. It just doesn’t trigger when the torque is reached
A way back I took to decision to buy a decent quality torque wrench just for the bike, which has a low starting and ending range 3-15 Nm. TBH the 2-10Nm ones like to Topeak are probably even better, especially for things like caliper bolts.
Can you share a link to the tool you used?
Makita makes a torque wrench? Sure you’re not using the wrong tool?
Ok, I have a few questions:
– Why would you buy a torque wrench for a bike from a construction company? Wouldn’t a bike specific wrench be better?
– What is the torque range. My experience is that broad torque wrenches like 2-20Nm lack finess in the low range
– Was there a certificate with it that shows the wrench was properly tested?
– Can you test your wrench at a LBS to see if its really off??
– Did you potentially harm the saddle post or the frame? First one I wouldn’t bother to much, second is potentially dangerous.
Great to hear some answers…
And best luck with the bike…