Reposting this with more info because the other bike I was looking at got sold already.

Bike: Cannondale CAAD3 ($200) 48cm (I am 5'3)

Intended use: Biking to campus and longer weekend trips (weather permitting). Roads would be pavement, some gravel (if there is road work), and bumps/potholes (I live in a city). Also, there would be plenty of uphills and downhills.

I got to see the Cannondale CAAD3 in person and test ride it while I was visiting another state. It was really smooth and rode nice. The only problem is that it’s in a whole different state, so I would have to travel far to pick it up.

The Cannondale has some issues, but the owner (an elderly guy who’s really passionate about bikes) will fix it up for no extra charge. Brakes are really good, but he’ll tune them up more and clean up the rim (it’s a bit dusty). The only issue is a weird noise when the bike coasts (when holding it up), so he said he would check the bearings to make sure.

The bike has 24 gears, a new rear cassette (11-28T, I believe), Shimano 105 for the rear, and Shimano Sora for the front. Tires are 23mm but will be switched to 25mm. Wheels are unoriginal since he switched them out. Paint was peeling originally, but he painted over it with rust-resistant paint.

The bike is aluminum but feels like it's around 23lbs with the changes. Its really light weight (which I like).

He didn’t want to let me go with a "less than perfect bike," so he’ll let me pick it up Saturday after he finishes all the fixes.

Any thoughts on the bike?

by Okay_biker

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13 Comments

  1. I mean it’s an old model with fairly old / tired parts on it. Then again, there is no reason to think a CAAD3 won’t do anymore – it’ll still be a really good bike overall, especially if you maintain it well and maybe upgrade some parts.

    As for the price, I cannot judge that, it’ll depend a lot on your local market. Around my parts, you won’t get any kind of vaguely decent road bike for much less than that.

  2. Improvedandconfused on

    That bike is around 20 years old with low end Sora parts and visible damage, especially on the shifter. I would also question the compatibility of the Sora shifter with the 105 derailleur. $175 is probably actually bordering on the high side.

  3. Its fine, but you could get it for 125 or 150.

    If youre interested in an older steel road bike, look for a Lemond. They are typically a little more, but some are in great shape.

  4. Cleaned up, ready to ride; $175 is totally reasonable.

    Shimano Sora is entry-level but acceptable. The only issue is a design flaw on the front derailleur. They all break eventually. You can ride it till it breaks, its not dangerous. And it wont leave you stranded, you can just shift to the middle chainringg and leave it.

    Replace it with a used 105 or Ultegra triple front derailleur and you’re golden.

  5. BasketNo4817 on

    $175 is on lower high end of value range IMHO. Looks like it was maintained over the years.
    While I don’t love the Sora/105, it’s not horrible either.
    See if the seller has wiggle room to get to $160 to replace the bar tape.

  6. It seems like a good bike for how you intend to use it. Not a hidden gem, but if 48cm’s are hard to find near you, jump on it. I think you could get down a little more.

  7. Good fit for your use, and someone carefully tuning and tweaking it for you? Do it. Price is fine.

  8. An aluminum frame and steel fork, from maybe 1999.

    This bike has been through a lot in its lifetime! “The only issue is a weird noise when the bike coasts (when holding it up), so he said he would check the bearings to make sure.” A noise while the rear wheel is spinning would indicate the freehub, which is the ratcheting mechanism that allows coasting and pedaling. The rear wheel is a Bontrager AT-750 and the freehub is not serviceable, but is replaceable if the part is available. I didn’t hear it, so maybe it’s nothing and it’s fine as is. But if there is an issue there are only a few things you can do: take everything apart, pick off the seal and drip some light lubricant into the freehub body, maybe that will help, replace the freehub body (it’s the part the cassette mounts on and isn’t really visible normally), or if the part isn’t available, replace the entire wheel. A wheel like that probably sells for around $80 at a bike shop, less online. Let’s see what the seller works out, ask him about this though.

    Overall it seems like a good value for the money. The paint isn’t beautiful, did he use a paint brush? lol. New chain, cassette, newish rear derailleur. The rear skewer is intended for a mountain bike (mt bike uses 135mm rear spacing, road 130mm) you can see the extra 5mm of threads extending out from it. This is fine, just part of the bike’s story.

    The rear tire, on the drive side, at some point the brake pad was severely mis adjusted and was rubbing against the tire. You can see the mark it wore into the rubber. The brake is adjusted correctly now, but the tire was damaged from this (not badly). Corrosion on most of the bolts is normal at this age.

    The brake cable and housing is quite old, but the shift cable has been replaced more recently. The front derailleur cable doesn’t have a cap and is fraying. This will poke and puncture you! Have him or somebody trim it and put an end cap on.

    The bar tape is awful. Whoever wrapped it has no idea how to work on bikes. They did a poor job of things overall, but specifically they didn’t roll back the rubber hoods, they wrapped over them. The wrap is very loose so it is unravelling. They didn’t know what to do with the ends so just wrapped lots of electrical tape.

    Personally, I wouldn’t buy it because I don’t think it’s beautiful. What that man did to the paint would bother me. But it should be a solid and reliable bike for basic transportation. It’s a good deal as long the rear hub isn’t an issue. The price is fair. Sizing should be OK for you, the ergonomics, the reach will be a little longer with the older style long reach handlebars. It’s not something major. You already said it feel comfortable.

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