Solo Cycling France: 4 Days, 400km & 40°C Heatwave – Part 1

Join me on the first part of a 4-day solo bike tour through Southern France, where I trade flat valley roads for rolling countryside and mountain climbs. Starting from Toulouse, I follow the iconic Canal du Midi before leaving the flats behind and making my way to Foix for the first night.

Day 2 takes me on quiet, scenic roads with a challenging climb, followed by an exhilarating descent through the stunning Gorges de Rebenty and the Gorge de Pierre Lys. I finish the day exploring the charming town of Quillan and the ruins of the old chateau overlooking it all. The relentless heat, hitting nearly 40°C, tested my limits every turn of the pedals!

This is my first solo tour in France which is a change of pace from riding with my husband Stephen, who’s been in all of our previous videos.

If you love quiet roads, dramatic landscapes, and bike adventures, hit subscribe to follow along as I continue this journey in Part 2.

👍 Please like, comment, and ask any questions about my route etc. I’d love to hear from you!

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Some people book spa treatments for a relaxing holiday. Me, well, I choose to ride 400 plus kilometers through southern France in 40° heat for fun. I’ve hit that point in the ride where I just want to be there. Over 4 days, I pedal solo from Tuloo to Carason and back again, involving forested clims, ancient towns, and a hell of a lot of sweat. Shade, sweet, sweet shade. Woo! I made it. Yay! Riding past castles, through mesmerizing gorgees, and discovering just how many lers of water one human can possibly drink in a day. Is this place for real? On quiet roads. What a ridiculous place to ride a bike. This is the scenic route. France, you are ridiculous. I tell you what, I’m so happy to be on a bike and not in a car. That sickening feeling when you realize the route you’ve been blindly following on your GPS is not the one you’re meant to be following and you’re way off course. Welcome to the ride and join me for part one of this adventure. [Music] Off on an adventure, but no adventure in France can begin without a stop at the Bologonerie. Purchase has been made. Leaving those mountains behind for some different ones. Platform C. [Music] Okay, arrived at Lord’s train station and another little mini adventure is about to begin. Last year I took a train, a very cheap ticket to Tuloose from here and did a circuit around Carcasson and looped all the way back to Tuloo over 4 days. And this year changing it up. I’m on my own. I’m actually staying at hotels and I’m going in the other direction. So, it’s going to be a fun time. It’s meant to be really hot. I think we’ll get temperatures in the high30s. So, it’ll be interesting to see how I go. But the bike is loaded up and couple of paners on some food. Just done a bakery stop. So, I’ve got a nice chocolate in there and yeah, just waiting for the train. I’m on an intercity train today or onto city as they pronounce it in France, which has meant that I have to reserve a bike place. So, it’s an extra €5 to put the bike on, but I also know that it’s reserved for me. And that means that I can rest easy to know that the great thing about Lord’s train station, which is where I’m leaving from, is I don’t need to think about staircases and hauling a bike and panas downstairs. So, I have my fingers crossed that I won’t have an issue in Tuloo. Arrived at the train station in Tuloo. So, we’ll have the fun of managing the platforms. This is Jeanluke who I sat next to. Jean Luke is 72 and he has just traveled from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. A big journey himself, 19 days. He’s awesome. We’ve just had the best conversation the whole time. And uh yeah, and JeanLuke lives near Carcasson where I’m going. And when I get there, we’ll have a drink together. [Music] I can’t believe my luck. There’s a lift. There’s a lift. Woohoo. [Music] There’s never a lift that works at Tuloo. So thanking my lucky stars. [Music] about 5 km out of Tuloose. And I always feel this is the part where you feel you’ve sort of left a bit of the city behind. As you can see, there’s heaps of people cycling along the canal. Some with panas, so maybe doing the canal to midi. It’s a beautiful day and it’s going to be hot. So, I’m going to be very thankful for these trees. I’m pretty excited after the train journey to be turning pedals. It’s sort of late. It’s already 11:00. So, I’ve got a bit of a long ride ahead of me today to get to FA and I’m looking forward to it. But first, time to have my chocolate. Obviously, I was tired when I bought this because uh it’s not a chocolate, it’s a panoren. Anyway, looking forward to eating this. Not a bad place to have it either. So nice to be in the shade on the canal leaving Tuloose behind which is pretty calm. Just hear the wheels turning and the birds singing. And you can see just how beautiful is this. So about 28 km ridden and it’s now the time to leave the canal behind. It’s the direction I’ve been traveling in. It’s been super beautiful, super shady. And now heading this way. Goodbye canal. Goodbye lockouses. Goodbye cycle tours maybe. and onwards to Aries Adventures direction Fua. Well, I’ve just had some very tough climbs and now I’m enjoying the view. The whole Pyrenees mountain chain in front of me. I’m not sure if it’ll come out on camera, but there’s snow on the peaks and fields in various state. There’s baby sunflowers just ahead of me. Vending machines of France. First, the baguette. €1 for a baguette tradition [Music] vending machine. Number two is pizza. Still yet to try a pizza from a pizza vending machine. Heat it up in 3 minutes. Oats cheese, four cheeses, royale, jambon, arajis. Wow. So pretty cool. Different types. Um, yeah, if you’re a hungry traveler, pizza and baguette vending machines. Just a quick stop on the road coming into some signs which bring back memories having lived very close to this area for 6 months when we first moved to France. And doesn’t matter what I do, I never ever got sick of these sort of views here. And it’s typical Aries. It’s, you know, lumpy valleys. You can see just hopefully it comes across on camera, but the the land just drops away and it’s sort of rolling countryside. These big wind farms and the Pyrenees mountain chain just right in the backdrop there. With the snow on it, you can sort of make the mountains out so much more. So, got a lot of this rolling road to come now. Beautiful. Lots of sunflowers in the field next to me here. [Music] Yet another climb. As I said, very rolling countryside. [Music] up to my favorite old section of road. The amount of times I rode here when we lived in this section of the area and I remember the first time I came across this avenue of plain trees or you call them sycamore trees. I was just wow. And uh just so beautiful in the field here. It’s just all coming up with baby sunflowers. So hopefully in four or five weeks these will all be flowering. See the peak of the Pyrenees there. [Music] Wild flowers. Moto is having fun. I’m having fun too. It’s a hot day. Uh, and I’m probably I don’t know, maybe almost halfway through. So, um, it’ll be nice when I get to Squa. From here, it’s pretty familiar. I go into Mazer, then Pameier, and then Pua. So, not too far. And all familiar roads now. And there’s something mentally about riding on places you’ve been before. I don’t know if you feel like that, but I certainly do. Anyway, um, it’s an absolutely mega place to ride. Just stunning. So the D16 near Jabel. Beautiful. Look at that blue sky. [Music] Fur closed. Bugger. Dead flat and dead straight for 4 km. I know this road so well cuz it takes me to the village we used to live in for a bit. I used to do my head in, but I’ve got a tailwind and it’s blowing strong. So, we’ll take it. It’s cooking. It’s pretty hot. Just refueled at a car for because all the bakeries were closed. Makes me sad. But at least it’s a beautiful sunny day. [Music] Oh, first a Claire or cafe and orange orina of the trip in this super lingerie which is like an oasis. It’s open 6:30 or 8:30 to 6:30 every day, even Sundays in a place where nothing’s ever open. So, this is really good. [Music] After being up high and the rollers and the climbs up and down, up and down, descending, we’re now very much in the river flat on the flood plane. It’s pretty cool. The light’s awesome. The glow of the barley crop there, blue sky, and if you can make it out, I’m not sure, but the Pyrenees mountains are looking magic. I think I’ve been commuted on a private shiman. Hopefully I’ll be able to connect through. There was a lady came the other way and she didn’t seem to sort of shoe me away. This is not the normal way that I’m used to. Bit rusty. Anyway, it’s quiet. The other road was very busy. So, so I’m thankful for that. the Aries River. After what felt like a few wrong turns, it’s lovely to see it. I’ve hit that point in the ride where I just want to be there. Nearly I am so happy to see you. Yoohoo. Made it to my home for the day. Hotel Lons. Check in, shower, and eat. [Music] Not sure I’ve ever had a hotel bedroom with a view straight out onto the river. That’s pretty cool. There’s a couple of ducks just picking back there. The flags from the areas region. It’s just amazing. And straight ahead is the road that I descended down to get into Fua. Um, but yeah, it’s pretty cool. Very happy. The trade-off is I have a toilet in a cupboard. But anyway, that’ll have to do. At least I have a toilet. Showered and feel human once again. And now doing what I love doing the most when I’m in far and that is walking the lovely tiny streets in the city. City town. It’s definitely a town. So beautiful. So that’s the hotel there. Hotel Lons seems pretty good. I would recommend it so far. But I mean, how many streets can boast a castle view like that? It’s absolutely phenomenal. Chatau Deoa Fua. Just after sunrise, the streets are empty, the shutters are still drawn, and the only sound is my cleats echoing off centuries of cobblestones. But this town hasn’t always been so peaceful. Perched above me is the chatau dewais which was once a stronghold of the counts of fua and a key player in the Qatar resistance during the middle ages and wars of religion. But this morning it’s just me, the quiet cobblestone streets and a growing need for coffee. Let’s keep on moving. Early morning in fa. Not much is happening. First light hitting the shadow. Aries River looks beautiful. See the road where I came down was just where that netting is on the mountain side yesterday. And I’ll be heading in that direction on this road out of town here to the next stop today which will be Keon. Early mornings is always a great time to get out and about. There’s my hotel there. And uh I can actually see my room. It’s the room on the the second window on the right just above the terrace where the blinders are. A beautiful beautiful place. And uh great soundproofing as well. One of the things I love is being an early bird because not many people are. So, everyone’s stuck in bed asleep and you sort of have the streets to yourself. There’s no one around. You can sort of get and see a bit without people in there. If you’re a photographer, it’s a great time to be out because you don’t have people in your photos. [Music] So, a bit of a slower start than I would have liked today because it’s a public holiday. I joke with Steven all the time that I’m cursed because I always plan to do things and there’s a public holiday which sort of stuffed things up a little bit. It’s not too bad. It’s just everything was closed and what is open isn’t open until like 9:00 in the morning. So, I’ve had to wait. But, I’ve stocked up on food because I’m not expecting or I have to expect that things might not be open today and that would be a disaster. So, heading back to the hotel, get changed, get everything on the bike, and head on. Yay. So, the great thing is the hotel has this awesome bike storage. It was full. I’ve obviously a bit later to start than usual, but lot of hanging spaces, a couple of bikes still here, taps, there’s lube. People obviously are storing their bike cases if they’re staying longer. There’s a pump as well and it’s all locked which is fantastic. So, uh can definitely recommend Hotel Leons in Fua. Finally loaded up and ready to go. Just chatting to some moto tourists from the UK and worded them up on a few good places to see. And uh yeah, time to say oravo or ar and on to keon up there. Here we go. [Music] 7 or so km out of fl so far. It’s gently climbing. sort of between 1 and 5% throughout in a lovely forest. A lot of it’s actually been in the shade which is lovely. Um and yeah, a very quiet road. I’ve actually seen more bikes than cars. And unlike yesterday’s end of the ride, which was in the river valley, you really feel like you are properly sort of in the mountain range now. We’re only in the foothills and climbing so gently, but it’s still so beautiful. Just leaving the little commune le sabote. Not much to it. About three buildings really. But I just thought so far this ride’s given me everything I love about bike touring. I’m on a quiet road in between beautiful countryside and I’ve got the bird song for company. It’s just beautiful. So for those playing along at home, this is the D1 and it connects Fua to Lavlin. And because there is a main road, like a big car road that also does that, it’s pretty much devoid of traffic, which is fantastic. And look at this. So, you can sort of also get an insight into the industry here. There’s some forestry plantations, uh, but mainly it’s just countryside, small farms, and another bike traveler. Bonjour. We’re also very very close to the Spanish border and Andor and in times gone past this was actually a area of safe passage to get people out during the war and in the resistance. Uh, so there’s quite a lot of recent interesting history in this part of the Arz if you want to dig into aside from all the Qatar castle history as well and the the Katar crusades and the wars of religion which went on in this area over gosh many many many centuries ago. That there straight ahead I think is one of the most perfect trees. Beautiful shape, just perfect all on its own. Lovely long grass. I’m not sure whether the camera will pick it up, but it is definitely wildflower season. And this field, this meadow in front of me is filled with buttercups, which is lovely. And I hope you can hear the bird song as well. That bit of the mountain there where you can see the rocky escarment there sort of gives a hint of what’s to come because half of this ride is going to be through some spectacular gorges and I really cannot wait to hit those and you can sort of see on this side as well just that those rocky bits you don’t sort of get that as prominently where I live in the Pyrenees and the ought Pyrenees. They’re much different. But yeah, this is a beautiful valley. Beautiful church in a beautiful quiet valley. Herd of cows over there. And you can see the road now has opened up a little bit and the valley’s opened up. But it’s a beautiful day. It’s going to be hot. Knowing my luck, it’ll be the hottest when I hit the massive climb for the day. But what a beautiful day I’ve got. In fact, there’s not a single cloud in the sky. the old Michelin road marker there, which I I love. You see them a little bit through France, not much. So, this road here, this smaller road turning off takes you to the Rock Fort Leascard. Uh, it’s a beautiful waterfall and at the base of it, it’s all petrified. I think I’m trying to remember if it’s petrified rock or petrified trees. I’m half tempted to go there because it’s just a little diversion, but I can’t remember if I’ve got a big climb or a big descent. So, I’m not sure. I’ve decided to go to the Cascade. Life is full of detours, right? Here we are. Rockport Cascade. Not cascading too much, but it might just be cuz there’s still some snow melt to happen. The water is very, very clear. beautiful trees and uh join in the park with a few local lads. But yeah, it’s super super beautiful. A nice little spot, a little hut up there. This one. So, this is awesome. This is just at the start of the hiking trails. And uh this is a solless charging station for ebikes and mobile phones. So you can plug your ebike in to charge and your mobile. And from the look of it as well, this is a area that people go to ride uh mountain bike trails. So there’s mountain bike trails here. And there’s a little place. It’s closed, but I imagine it’s a cafe in summertime that sells drinks. But yeah, I’ve never seen this before. Have you? Have you seen a solar charging mobile phone and ebike charger? If you have, let me know. Here’s just another look at where the charging connectors come in. So, there’s quite a lot of them. There’s eight of them, I believe. And on the other side, I think, is a spot for mobile phones. So, it says you can charge ebikes, e- scooters, and I guess e vespers, like um yeah, how awesome is that? So, that building straight across the way was the I think it’s sari. If I have it wrong, I’ll put it in the comments. And if you look above it, you can see a sort of rocky plateau and an outcrop. And according to an information sign, that’s where an old castle used to be. So yeah, the old shadow ruins. And now back onto the road. Great little detour. [Music] Another little village on the road. This one’s called Tanya. Doesn’t feel like much happens here. [Music] And this has to be the best part of cycle touring, being able to just stop and take in an incredible view like this. I’ve often been heading in the other direction and known that this has existed, but haven’t had a great place to stop to take it in. You can see again that sort of big rocky escarment and steep sort of plunging valley down there which is absolutely mega. Again, still not a cloud in the sky. And yeah, what a place to ride a bike. I’m on a little bit of a climb at the moment, but I’ve only got 500 m to go. It’s been about 3 km long and I’m fairly sure that at the end of this climb I’ve got a nice descent to prep me for the very steep cold to come. Anyway, what a day. Ah, climb’s finished. Time to drop down. Made it to Bea. Not sure how you pronounce it. Some work being done here restoring a place. This is the river Lur. Uh which runs right through it. Fly is where we’ve come from. And uh this direction is where the coal starts. I think I’m not too far away from it. Bonoot guys all focused there. There’s been a fair few cyclists out. Mainly road cyclists. Most of them really friendly. Uh, and yeah, still a blue sky, sunny day, and uh, the climb awaits. I’m feeling not too bad, but I am at the base of it. And I think it’s about 7 km and averages about 6%. So, a few twisty turnies to come, a few steep sections in that as well. And then after the climb, it should plateau before I drop all the way through two amazing gorgees into Keon. So, the best part of the day is still ahead of me. But let’s get this climb sorted. There we go. Blink and you’d nearly miss it. So, this is kilometer zero. This kilometer averages 6.3%. I have 7 km and 403 m of climbing on the You can’t see because of the branch, but it is the Calder Quad Moore. And at the very top is 898 m. Average gradient 5.7. Maximum gradient for a whole kilometer is 7.8. There are some cheeky double digits gradients in between that. But the road is pointing uphill. I think I’m okay. Let’s see how I go. I’ve not moved a minute. And this beautiful old man came out of the house over there, crossed the road, took a pair of cutters to that cherry tree, and then picked me a wild bunch. Maybe he knows more than I do, but I got cherries for the climb. Awesome. 4.8ks to go. Feeling it. Bit of shade, bit of sun. Had to hit the third kilometer. I’ve done 2.8, I think. So, that one averages 6.1. Getting up there. Been a lot of cars giving me cheers. It’s uh I’m very very hot. Sweat pouring off me. But so enjoying a little bit of shade at the kilometer marker. I must admit that’s why I stopped. Anyone who finds themselves doing this climb, I can tell you that after the that kilometer marker and the 3 km to go, the third kilometer marker, it’s a really nice flat bit. We love flat bits. Just passed the sign for the fifth kilometer and it was so beautiful. It said the average gradient of like 1.1%. These flat bits you pay for with extra steep bits. I hit 14% for quite a while back there. But wow, beautiful. And it is in the sun this climb. There’s not been much shade. The forest is strictly either side of the road and pine trees don’t cast much of a shadow. But I’m just enjoying it and not too much longer to the top. Shade. Sweet. Sweet shade. Woo. Woohoo. I made it. Yay. Wasn’t too bad. There were a few sections which were pretty punchy, especially in the sunshine. There’s no shade, so it was a bit of a sweat fest, but caladmore, we did it. Loaded up, had some cherries, and look at the beautiful wild flowers. And I’m not sure if you can see, but through that gap in the trees is a snow covered peak. And this is the direction I’m going. It’ll be flat for a bit, and then I have downhill all the way back. So, I’m going to eat a bit of food and that’s me done. About to cross into the department during partner. Bonjour. Look at this. It’s just opened up. I’ve been in a forest for so long and it’s amazing just to see this beautiful opening of a view. And you can see a few little bit of snow drifts on the peaks there, but it’s a hot sunny day. The wind is in the grass and I’m looking forward to a lovely descent. [Music] Definitely on the plateau. Winds picked up, but it’s not too bad. It’s actually nice. sort of cooled me off a little bit after that hot climb. Made it to the lovely water fountain in the little village of Espazelle and I need to have lunch and there’s table and chairs here in the shade. I can refuel bottles. This is absolutely perfect. This fountain is from 1874 and uh little street library. Yeah, absolutely fantastic. [Music] left the little village. If I’m quiet, you might be able to hear some cowbells in the distance. And now descending for I think 3 km on this road. You can see the road down there. He’s going to drop me into this valley which is the valid robanti. I’m sure I pronounced that wrong. And we’re going to have some pretty epic scenery to come. But what a magic day in this part of the Pyrenees. Can you get over it? I just had the most beautiful time chatting with this lovely lady who’s from the village there at Espazelle. Her name is Marie Luci and she was telling me she’s always wanted to travel, but she also just really likes the tranquility and calmness of village life here. Uh she was surprised I was riding on my own and she wished me bonkarage and uh yeah, she’s just a beautiful lady. So anyway, bonurrage indeed. There’s a car coming up. So I’ll stop filming and get riding. Time for things to get a little bit ridiculous. The gorge duronte. Been tracing this tiny river descending down and it spins me out to think this is what’s created this huge gorge. Woo! Woo. Is this place for real? Like honestly, there’s the river. This is the gorge. There’s a beautiful smell of wild garlic in the air. I wanted to say that so that I remember it later. It’s just beautiful. What a place. What a place. Probably a couple of kilometers from the gorge. This beautiful little village, Zhuku. Ambience of a barking dog in the background. Beautiful little spot. Just uh about 9 km to Keon. This is the little village of S. Martan Liss I think it is. This is the Odd River. Beautiful. And uh wa places that make you feel about the size of an ant. You’re not going to be able to make it out here, but I am watching one, two, three, four massive vultures. Five, six, all coming out there. Amazing birds of prey just therming here. It’s a bit of a busier road, but absolutely spectacular. And wow, what a place to ride a bike. Some places make you feel small, and the gorge to Pierce is definitely one of them. Carved out by the odd river, this narrow canyon feels like nature is just showing off. What a ridiculous place to ride a bike. Towering limestone walls close in on you from both sides. The road is twisting between rock and river like it’s barely squeezing through. It was pretty dramatic and wild and for me so exhilarating and completely unforgettable. Arrived at the hotel, showered, feel human, and doing one of my favorite things, which is walking the streets. It’s 6:30 p.m. So on a public holiday, everyone is now at home in the evening. And Keon, like many cool villages in France, have these lovely Mand Devilles, beautiful garden, sort of see everything, people hanging their clothes. Um, but yeah, it’s a lovely place so far. Very happy to uh be staying here tonight. So, I’m discovering new things about Keon all the time. I already knew that the mountain scenery around it was out of this world, but I didn’t know that there was a chatau or the ruins of a chatau at the very top of the village. It’s not a surprise that it’s at the highest point in the village because that that’s where it was the easiest place to defend from. But yeah, there’s just this old shadow ramp, like the ruins. Very much a ruin, but you can still walk inside it and imagine what life was like. Something I always love about these places are, and of course, I can’t see any just as I’m talking about it now. But the um slits for arrows to be fired from, in fact, that’s probably Yeah. Wow. And you can just imagine what it was like. I’m not sure if I can walk down here. I think I can. Try not to fall in my beautiful hiking Birkenstocks. Let’s take you on a little wander. [Music] Oh, those legs are feeling the kilometers of today. Let’s see how they go tomorrow. But yeah. Wow, that’s pretty cool. And um back down to the vil. And look at that view. There’s the beautiful odd river there. And look at these high mountains all around. People on the terrace enjoying an afternoon drink. And yeah, what a beautiful spot. Absolutely gorgeous. Keon’s a place, having visited it, I I think I could settle in a place like Keon, the outside of the chat ruins, old entrance, and this is what I’m talking about, the arrow slit holes. Imagine someone being on the other side, an archer shooting arrows out, defending the castle. Wow. And that’s where I’m leaving it for part one of my cycle tour here. Stick around for part two where, can you believe it, the weather continues to just get ever hotter. Oh, just trying to get it done. 10ks to go and I’m broken. And the scenery levels up, making me feel even tinier and more insignificant as I make my way through the gorgeous de Galamoose onto Carcasson. And then I deal with a route planning misadventure and you’re way off course. Oh my gosh. Where I wonder, am I ever actually going to make it back to Tuloose in one piece. No idea when I top out on this. Hopefully soon. If you’ve enjoyed this video, please make sure to like it, leave a comment, and subscribe to our channel. I plan to upload more of these style of videos throughout the year. And be sure to check out some of the previous videos and playlists which showcase some of our tours from the past.