Trek Emonda 2016

The only addition to internally routed cables would be for something to go into the bars at the lever and come out before the stem or have something come out under the stem.

It isn’t worth it. Makes maintenance a pain in the ass compared to actual performance gains.

You can get some Chinese carbon handlebars that route the cables in the handlebars and then out the bottom, but not right next to the stem. This allows you to then send them where they need to go.

I’m with others in saying that it’s not worth it, though. It will look almost exactly like what you have now. You just won’t have cable housing under the bar tape. It also forces the cables to go in a more constrained route which might affect shifting.

You can cut the chimney off the steerer tube, though. Just make sure to leave enough so that you can put a 5 mm spacer on top and so that the top cap won’t touch the steerer tube.

In terms of tires, I’ve experimented with my 13 mm internal width wheels and Panaracer Agilist 28s blow up to only 26. The thing is that with the small rim volume, there isn’t actually much more air. Also the poor shape of the tire doesn’t really give good performance. I’ve actually settled on 25 as being optimum for that setup. They only blow up to 24, so only 1mm wider than 23s! But they seem ever so slightly better.

If you were to seriously go after 28 mm tires, I would try to find a wheel with a wide inner width rim. However (and I’ve run the numbers myself), it’s just not worth it. First, you have to make sure you have enough room (because the tire will blow up bigger) and the cost of new wheels with a 18 mm or 19 mm inner rim width is something like 1/3 the cost of a whole new bike with much, much, much better wheels that you have now.

So… I just wouldn’t bother. Run 23s or 25s at the lowest pressure where you don’t get too many punctures and enjoy riding a piece of history.