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8 Comments

  1. Typically, bikes ship with an amount of spacers that work with the length of steerer. It’s odd that this bike didn’t. You absolutely need to remove a spacer, though, as there is not enough steerer for the stem to clamp currently.

  2. ParkertheKid on

    Not okay to assemble the headset like this. You want the top of the steerer tube to essentially sit flush with the top of the stem. Some setups require a few mm below top of stem to allow space for the top cap to sit flush, but this amount of space is not passing the vibe test.

    Please ensure that the headset bearings are flipped to the correct orientation & that they are fully seated in their cups. If that is all well & good, remove one of the spacers under the stem and re-check.

  3. according to most manuals, top of the headtube shouldn’t be lower than 3-5mm from the top stem edge.

    (removing one 5mm spacer should help here)

  4. OrmTheBearSlayer on

    The steerer tube should come up above the top bolt (otherwise the clamping isn’t gripping properly) but be bellow the top of the stem.

    There should be about 2-3mm drop from the top of the stem to the top of the steerer so the preload bolt can take out any play in the system.

    Try removing 1 spacer.

  5. Specialized says no more than 3mm gap. That’s just for their carbon steerers but this much gap makes me feel uncomfortable

  6. Wooden_Way_1481 on

    Mission completed guys, than you! My first bike with fully internal cables routing and I already hate it xd

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