Don't know what I'm doing wrong. I'm using the breaker bar pictured. And turning in the direction of the arrow (counterclockwise). I'm scared that the bolt will shear as it's alre starting to get damaged. Right hand side came out easily.
Should add I have no idea what style the crank is but it’s part of a Shimano drivetrain despite not being Shimano itself.
teakettle87 on
It is reverse threaded.
Hahmo42 on
Is it counter-thread?
Kahnza on
I’m sorry for your loss. But a shop may have a hard time getting that off now that it’s rounded out.
Working_Bench_6780 on
Drill it out , remove arm and if you can’t remove the rest of the bolt in the shaft . Replace bottom bracket.
WheelsnHoodsnThings on
Any chance that’s just an end cap over the actual bolt? I would not go anywhere near that bolt with a breaker bar. If you need that on a bicycle you should carefully re-evaluate before proceeding. If I’m reading this right you’re looking at 28ft/lbs? That’s not breaker bar stuff. It could be rust seized. Give it a rap with a block and hammer, or tighten it on clockwise and see if you can pop the rust glue.
I don’t know the answer for you but check the crankset online and see what it’s supposed to be. Counter-clockwise should be your undo direction, assuming the driveside was the same.
Ok-Project3 on
Your going to need an extractor now.
millenialismistical on
I see two hex heads, one for the inside bolt and one for the locking bolt (not what it’s called but it escapes me). You are trying to loosen the inner bolt, correct? As you undo the inner bolt it pushes against the outer bolt and pushes the crank arm off the frame.
echo-tango86 on
Bigger hammer (j/k looks like someone already answered)
reed12321 on
How are you doing it? Are you trying to do it on the work stand? I would advise against that since it’s harder to put your weight into it. Here’s what I’d do:
Put the left/Non-drive side crank in the 9:00 position. Put a cinder block/block of wood/rock/something to prevent the crank and pedal from moving UNDER the pedal. You’ll then have something stabilizing the pedal and crank arm so you’re not fighting the drivetrain. You might need someone to sit on the seat just to hold everything in place. Use the breaker bar and you’ll be good.
Usually for bikes that have the crank bolts that are torqued correctly and aren’t stuck, I put the 8mm wrench in the bolt at the 6:00-7:00 position, and the crank will be at the 8:00 position. I pull up on the crank with my left hand and push down on the wrench with my right so my hands are pushing in opposite directions. It’s easier to get more leverage starting slightly apart.
What are you planning on doing when you get the crank off? Do you have the crank removal tool? It looks like you have a square-taper crank/bb and you need a special tool to pull the crank off.
10 Comments
Should add I have no idea what style the crank is but it’s part of a Shimano drivetrain despite not being Shimano itself.
It is reverse threaded.
Is it counter-thread?
I’m sorry for your loss. But a shop may have a hard time getting that off now that it’s rounded out.
Drill it out , remove arm and if you can’t remove the rest of the bolt in the shaft . Replace bottom bracket.
Any chance that’s just an end cap over the actual bolt? I would not go anywhere near that bolt with a breaker bar. If you need that on a bicycle you should carefully re-evaluate before proceeding. If I’m reading this right you’re looking at 28ft/lbs? That’s not breaker bar stuff. It could be rust seized. Give it a rap with a block and hammer, or tighten it on clockwise and see if you can pop the rust glue.
I don’t know the answer for you but check the crankset online and see what it’s supposed to be. Counter-clockwise should be your undo direction, assuming the driveside was the same.
Your going to need an extractor now.
I see two hex heads, one for the inside bolt and one for the locking bolt (not what it’s called but it escapes me). You are trying to loosen the inner bolt, correct? As you undo the inner bolt it pushes against the outer bolt and pushes the crank arm off the frame.
Bigger hammer (j/k looks like someone already answered)
How are you doing it? Are you trying to do it on the work stand? I would advise against that since it’s harder to put your weight into it. Here’s what I’d do:
Put the left/Non-drive side crank in the 9:00 position. Put a cinder block/block of wood/rock/something to prevent the crank and pedal from moving UNDER the pedal. You’ll then have something stabilizing the pedal and crank arm so you’re not fighting the drivetrain. You might need someone to sit on the seat just to hold everything in place. Use the breaker bar and you’ll be good.
Usually for bikes that have the crank bolts that are torqued correctly and aren’t stuck, I put the 8mm wrench in the bolt at the 6:00-7:00 position, and the crank will be at the 8:00 position. I pull up on the crank with my left hand and push down on the wrench with my right so my hands are pushing in opposite directions. It’s easier to get more leverage starting slightly apart.
What are you planning on doing when you get the crank off? Do you have the crank removal tool? It looks like you have a square-taper crank/bb and you need a special tool to pull the crank off.