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13 Comments

  1. Regular_Software_621 on

    if that’s a threadless stem, no it won’t work, with a threaded steerer you need a quill stem or a threaded to threadless adapter which you can then run a threadless stem on

  2. hello_zuko_here- on

    is that a threadless stem on a threaded steer tube? that by itself feels plenty sketchy to me…

  3. Low_Transition_3749 on

    It’s weird, but that’s a steel steerer. It should be strong enough. Stick in a 1″ starnut in , add spacers and a top cap to set bearing preload and it would even look kinda norm.

    You could even throw a couple of spacers on there and a locknut from a threaded headset so you can set bearing preload before clamping the steerer and it should work. Jam a champagne cork in there to keep water out for a unique look.

  4. Substantial_Airport6 on

    Not the popular answer…but it’s probably fine. Add a star nut, spacers and a cap.

  5. I’m gonna be a prick and instigate this tomfuckery. Use a 1 1/8” to 1” spacer on the stem, make sure the top cup is properly adjusted and use some spacers and it might just work. Might. Just don’t go sending it off any gaps.

  6. millenialismistical on

    I’ve done this on one of my road bikes. It’s fine. My fork is 1″ threaded and I use a 1″>1 1/8″ shim to run a regular threadless stem. Plus the steerers are usually steel on these forks. I might feel differently about doing this on a mountain bike or something that’s ridden on rough terrain.

  7. WrenchHeadFox on

    The threads have weakened a steerer that is already not designed to have a clamping force on the outside of it. It can be made to work, it can also be fine – but it can also be not. That’s the consideration to make on the front end of the thing transporting your meat sack at 20mph.

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