After a dusty ride, my chain milage says it's time for a relube. But.

1) there's this sound – is that… Normal? It sounds like sand in there.

2) The internet says to just use a clean cloth to wipe the chain, add lube, and wipe off the excess. Ok. But no matter how much I try to wipe off excess, the chain keeps turning black and gritty when it goes around the gears. Wouldn't you have to clean your pulley wheel and cassette as well to not just get much right back in and mixing with the new lube? That's not just today, that's always, and it makes me feel dumb for not grasping the most basic maintenance. I can never just get a clean chain by the end.

Thanks in advance.

I may be an idiot who doesn't understand simple chain lubing
byu/InternetOwlhead inbikewrench



by InternetOwlhead

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8 Comments

  1. I had the same issue. I ignored modern internet’s advice and took the advice of an old-school forum that told me to use plain old white gas (that’s what google TL tells me it’s called in English, maybe it’s sold under another name – it’s just naphtha) to degrease it with a “shake”. I removed the chain completely, submerged it in the gas, shook, put it out to dry for half an hour. Wiped down with a clean cloth, in the meantime I cleaned out the cogs with a brush and more gas and some soapy water. Put the chain back on, lubed it and voila, it’s completely quiet and works like a charm!

  2. The internet is obsessed with clean and waxed chains right now, but this is not needed for drivetrain durability. While I clean my chain on a regular Basis, all my family members only get oil twice a year and never get cleaned. While their drivetrains look bad, they run for years while all are commuting with their bikes. This year, my mothers bike got its first chain swap after 8 years and multiple thousand of kilometers. They all run on oil as it lasts much longer than dry lube or even wax.
    What I want to say: dont obsess to much about chain cleanlyness, adding random cleaning compounds wont help and can even remove oil from inside the chain where it is needed. Your drivetrain will always be a little black, if you want to do it a favor, get a brush and scrub down the cassette and chainrings, then use shop towels to wipe down the chain, then relube it.

  3. Belgiumgrvlgrndr on

    Degrease, re-oil. Off topic a bit but how many miles do you have on that chainring?

  4. negative-nelly on

    I squirt pro link on my whole chain. Let it sit for a second. Then run the chain thru a rag or whatnot, basically grabbing the chain with my wadded up rag hand, focusing on the top/bottom and then the sides. Sometimes I do it twice. It’s all I’ve ever needed to do. Takes 90 seconds tops. If I see grit I’ll try to clean the jockey wheels a little. Outside of Chain should not be wet by the end. Many people spend way too much time on this.

  5. I used to detach and meticulously clean my chains, but nowadays I feel any cleaning is too much hassle. I just add some dry lube when necessary and swap the chain for a new one when it’s 0.5% elongated. Haven’t had any issues and I live in a pretty harsh climate too.

  6. wishy-washy_bear on

    Don’t overthink it. Lube the chain and go ride your bike.

    The chain will last a long time even under harsh conditions as long as you keep up with lubrication. Chains are robust and built to be out in the elements. When you add new lube any dirt and grime will work its way out of the links and then be replenished by new lube.

    Standard maintenance routine goes like this:
    Add lube every 100 miles. (For some people that’s every other day, and they definitely don’t degrease their chain every single time they lube it)
    Degrease chain up to a few times per year if you feel like it
    Replace chain when stretched to 0.5%

    Assuming this isn’t a performance road bike, a chain is a very cheap part, so it’s not worth stressing about too much. even neglected chains usually last quite a long time.

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