I bought this Specialized Tarmac SL7 three months ago and the hanger became bent.
I ordered the hanger and while I was trying to install it, I didn’t see that the new screw provided with the new hanger was a 4mm hex screw instead of the T25 screw the original hanger had and I ended up threading it.
It’s not completely threaded but a 4mm hex wrench couldn’t get the screw out.
Specialized bike shops near me refused servicing on it.
How can I fix this?
by ntitleduser
13 Comments
You can buy extractor bits for removing rounded bolts/screws.
They refused to help you extract a bolt? Or they refused to cover it under warranty?
Extracting a stripped bolt is something any bike shop should be able to accomplish. A damaged screw extraction kit should be in every shop. It’s something they should absolutely charge you to do, but they should be able to do it.
Side note, your chain is on backwards. The straight part should be on the upper side
I’d take it to a decent bike shop and let them do it.
Left hand drill bit and buy a new hanger. The hanger comes with the new bolt. Easy fix
If you have access to the torx keys, try and see if some of them is the “right size” for the bolt. I usually see this the other way though. In fact I opened a half stripped allen bolt today with a torx bit. If you have bits, great, give it a little whack to properly seat the torx key deeper, that usually help with friction. Also apply more downward pressure on the tool to prevent it slipping further when opening.
If you fail to get it open like this, next and final step is bolt extractor bit.
BTW. I also noticed your chain in upside down. The flat side of the chain should be on the outside, you can also see that the rival/sram text is upside down on top part of the chain.
Any bike shop can help you with that, or like others said get an extractor bit and do it yourself. It’s an easy fix.
I’m wondering what was the reasoning for the Specialized dealer refusing to help you? Is your bike fake or something?
First try getting a rubber glove and put it over the end of a hex bit and try getting the bolt out that way. Sometimes it will offer enough but other times it won’t. But it’s always worth trying because it’s quick and easy.
If that doesn’t work try hammering in a Torx bit into the head of the bolt. If you’re lucky it will come out.
If that doesn’t work don’t panic it’s not over yet. Have a look online for a “Easy Out” set, I got mine on Amazon.
What these are, are basically bits with a reverse thread on. You drill a little hole into the bolt then use the bit with a reverse thread to cut a thread into the head of the bolt and hopefully get enough purchase to undo the bolt.
I recommend watching a YouTube video on it first and getting some safety goggles just in case you snap a drill bit.
Have you tried persuading a T27 or T30 in there just to get enough purchase to turn it out and replace ? I do this when we have rusted in 1/8 hex screws at work(non bicycle). Obviously you can’t pound it into place the way I can with steel parts but you still may have some luck if your bolt isn’t torqued down
Find a torxs bit like 4mm or 5mm and hammer it in and turn it
Sadly I think I know why your shop declined to try and it’s all thanks to liability and insurance.
It used to be that in cases like this shops would take it in on the understanding that there were no guarantees and if it went wrong there was the possibility of damage being caused but there have been a few claims for damage to frames in cases like this and insurance companies were not happy. The insurance company my shop has used for years told us last renewal that they would no longer offer cover for any damage caused when attempting such work and if we took it in we would have to pay out if it went wrong.
We found a different insurer that cost a bit more but I know of a couple of other shops in my city that chose to start to refuse in cases like this.
This is so simple. 1) your bike shop sucks and they need to learn how to do actual work on bikes instead of just assembling and pushing inventory, 2) just back it out with a extractor kit like others have posted. I run a bike shop and we do one of these daily. Put some penetrating on it and let it sit for like 10 min before you start with the extractor.
Use a the extractor bit isn’t difficult. Install the through axel to keep the rear triangle stiff. Make sure you drill in reverse slowly and at a 90 degree angle or you will break your bit. Ask me how I know.
You’ll know it’s working correctly when your bit becomes sticky and difficult to remove. I had to remove cleat bolts recently and I got real good at using the extractor bits.