i tried going to vulcanizing shops and other bike shop laboring they rejected this because they might break it
by Last-Preference-141
i tried going to vulcanizing shops and other bike shop laboring they rejected this because they might break it
by Last-Preference-141
7 Comments
gonna need a bigger hammer.
Make sure you have both cups removed (on both sides) and then use a hammer that’s not just a rubber mallet. A brass hammer or a deadblow would be best.
Torque is force times distance. If you can’t add more force, get a longer lever.
Also, I don’t think it matters in this case, but out of habit I would always remove the NDS cup first. Do remember that both cups are going to unthread in the normal cranking direction.
Longer lever is key after knowing the threat direction; find a long pipe to go over your tool to have more leverage. I managed to remove a lot of BB this way.
Put the tool in a vice so it’s facing vertically, then with the frame on its side, lower it onto the tool. Then, use the frame as the lever and turn it around the tool.
I used a 36″ pipe wrench recently. They are £16 delivered. Bite the wrench teeth onto the BB spline tool, as close as you can get to the frame. Was the only method that worked, including, impact driver, 40″ pipe extension on wrench, hammer as you are doing, penetrating oil, etc.
The difference is, the pipe wrench can get much closer to the cup itself (1.5 inches closer), adding more direct, less distorted/deflected force.
I usually use a ½” impact gun.
But something (or someone) holding the frame solid, and whacking the wrench good and hard with a proper hammer (not rubber) has yet to fail, you’ll get more torque doing that than with my impact.