


Hi everyone! I’m new here, but I have this 1970’a era Eaton Competition 10 speed that I am working on getting back on the pavement. Unfortunately, I’ve been stuck for weeks with trying to get this end cap off the one side of the bottom bracket. Does anyone know a tool to use for it? I’ve tried vice grips, low rise spanners, and crescent wrenches with no luck. Looking for any advice, thank you!
by Arny712
13 Comments
Width of the cup is 21mm as well!
[Thank me later.](https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html#:~:text=To%20remove%20a%20right%2Dthreaded,the%20cup%20screws%20itself%20out)
Does it look like it could be the same as the “2 Flats, 16mm Width” tool listed here? Yours might be slightly wider.
https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection-threaded-and-thread-together#HCW-11
If so though, that site suggests a HCW-11 model tool. A bespoke tool might be your best bet. I would have tried an adjustable spanner/wrench as well but the engagement is so tiny I can already feel the frustration of it slipping off!
Park has a wrench that has a closed top, 36mm i think. Use a threaded rod and washers to hold the wrench on, like a press, pound with hammer. You have to tighten down the washers onto the wrench so it dose not slip. The washers have to be bigger than the bottom bracket.
Start with a LARGE (12″ or larger) adjustable wrench. And then get a thick steel washer (40mm OD with about a 10mm to 15mm hole) and a nut and bolt that fits the washer. You need to tighten down and secure the wrench onto the cup using the washer and nut/bolt so the wrench doesn’t slip off while you’re trying to turn it.
Make sure to turn it the right direction.
Heat it with a gas welder, add penetrating oil to it for a week (from the inside on the threads). Also as someone said before, make sure you are turning it in the right direction.
You could cover the hole with duct tape, lay the frame on the side, and then fill the bottom bracket shell up with poenetrating oil and let it sit for a week or two.
When you get a tool that fits (or just go with the Sheldon bolt/nut), tap it hard with a hammer (or stand on it with one foot), if you are turning it in the right direction it should loosen up quickly.
This works great
http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/BBTool/
Is there a reason to remove it? Usually I just leave that side in and clean it. If you are upgrading or replacing, you can weld a socket on there and remove it with a breaker bar.
Keep in mind if it’s an English threaded bottom bracket it will be left hand thread.
Take it to any welding shop. I’ve done this before for damaged freewheels that wouldn’t be removed using the proper tool.
Local flea mkt, found a big ol monkey wrench with straight jaws. We’re talkin serious old school stuff, here. No “hardware” store round here carries tools like this. Nubbed that onto the fixed BB cup flanges (edges) and relied on impulse tapping with a ball peen hammer. Use plenty of penetrating oil in the process.
PATIENCE works wonders. Stick to it and it will bust loose.
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Remember, as was stated, the cup (English, Japanese, etc.) loosens counter-clockwise, just so you avoid a major headache. The French bikes used to be clockwise!! Never could figure why.
Hey there, what’s the correct name for the clamp that holds the shift cables on frames that doesn’t have them already, i’m trying really hard to get one online and the one your bike has looks so nice