Hi,
Last summer, I got a 2019 Specilized Allez Sprint Comp (Shimano 105)to lose weight. Recently, I’ve been falling more and more in love with the sport, and really wanting to get to the “next level”. To do that, I have recently gotten a bike computer, training routine, etc.
What I am here for today is to learn. Besides tune ups being backed up for months, and expensive, I’ve always wanted to learn to work on the bike myself.
I am here with a SIMPLE question, what to do about my chain and gear sets, as, the points aren’t pointy and the chain looks beat up
-
Buy chain tool, break chain, replace chain and maybe the bottom most cog? All of it? Any links to what I should get?
-
Just take chain off, degrease/ultrasonicclean/soak/ dip in wax?
-
Nothing, I’m overreacting
-
Take it to a shop, it’s something that needs more than novice wrenching
When I bought the bike, the shop said it looked pretty good for its age. I know the previous owner did a ton of racing and the chain hasn’t been changed since.
*Literally any advice, from the sport to maintenance is welcome. I am new and really just want to start getting good and learning my way around the bike. I work on my own skis and car, so this is next in line. Thank you so so so much
by annnyoentnt
2 Comments
You’re going to get a bunch of different responses about this because there are lots of different opinions. Here’s mine:
I ride in dry, often dusty conditions and I like Rock’n’roll Extreme lube.
Basically every ride, I wipe off the chain, use a stiff bristled brush to clean the casette, derailleur jockey wheels, and front chainring. Then I apply the lube to the chain and wipe again. This process takes less than 5 minutes and keeps things running smoothly and gives a long service life.
I used to use a park tool chain cleaner periodically, but in those days I let everything get a lot dirtier. With more frequent brushing/lubing, I never need to clean the chain because thebsolvent in the lube takes care of that for me.
Some people are all about removing the chain to dip in wax. Some people rotate through multiple chains to try to maximize drivetrain lifespan. To me it seems like more work for not a lot of benefit l, so I stick to the quick brush/lube program. Perhaps in wet or muddy conditions I’d choose differently.
As far as the points / lack thereof – to me your drivetrain looks fine. There are a lot of subtle features designed into the teeth to assist in shifting. The variations you’re seeing are likely the shifting features. When your drivetrain goes bad, your bike will begin shifting poorly and/or your chain will start skipping.
If your chain/gears/drivetrain is skipping you will most likely need to replace chain + casette (rear gears) + chainrings (front gears). The whole system wears together, so usually when one piece starts acting up you need to replace everything. But again, your drivetrain looks to be in pretty good shape so it’ll probably be a while before you need to do that.
Remember – Basically everything on a bike is just helt together with screws. You got this.
I really hope this helps! Welcome to the sport!!!
I think it is a good idea to learn to do your own chain maintenance.
A chain break tool will be needed. You should also get a chain checker to use to know when a chain needs replacing – they should be replaced when they reach a certain % elongation (exact recommended percentage depends on drivetrain group set) to prevent the chain from causing premature wear on the rest of the drivetrain (which it looks to me like is already happening on your bike). Keeping the chain clean and lubed prevents premature chain wear – this is easiest for a lot of people using the hot wax method; but getting the chain and other drivetrain components absolutely clean first is imperative unless you use something like Silca StripChip to convert the existing oils into something compatible with wax.
If a new chain causes a tendency for gears to slip, that is a sign that the gears are too worn and also need replacing.