Hi all, thought I’d ask here before taking her back to the shop on Saturday (I’m still going to, just hoping someone can miraculously provide me with an answer). I’ve been having this issue with my bike for a while and no one can seem to figure it out. I just had it tuned up last weekend, and on my first ride the wheel popped out of alignment. Took it back and they replaced the wheel pin and assured me that its rusty condition was the culprit.

I rode it home from the shop and it was fine, but this morning as soon as I kicked off the wheel started hitting the frame yet again. At this point I’d just love to know if I need to get a new frame or if this is fixable and for some reason the shop guys just haven’t found the real issue. Any suggestions are very appreciated!

by richardmanuelsbeard

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11 Comments

  1. randy_butternubs_III on

    You have to make sure your wheel is centered in the dropouts before tightening the axel. It also looks like your tires are too wide for your frame.

  2. The tyre looks too wide for the frame. There is a bit of flex when a bike is moving, I would size down the tyres and see if that helps.

  3. > I just had it tuned up last weekend, and on my first ride the wheel **popped out of alignment**. Took it back and they replaced the **wheel pin** and assured me that its rusty condition was the culprit.

    By “wheel pin” I presume you mean [“quick release skewer”](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51rNnPnchbL._AC_SL1100_.jpg)

    And by “popped out of alignment” I assume you are describing a wheel that is true and dished (rim is centered over the hub) correctly that slipped in the [rear dropouts](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/350×289/ffhwd_6fe1d6a4a0ca163f04f35baf86366fb28df66bdd.jpg), causing the hub axis to go askew and drive the tire into the chainstay.

    If that’s the case, it’s one of two problems:

    1 – The QR skewer wasn’t tight enough and the QR simply slipped.

    2 – The Dropouts are bent or the rear end of the bike is out of alignment.

  4. It’s hard to tell from this angle, but I bet this frame has those old forward facing dropouts and the driveside is pulling forward when you pedal. Chain tugs are usually designed for track ends, but can probably work for this.

  5. vintage_cycles on

    I had a similar issue with one of my bikes. the quick release threads were damaged and healthy thread was only sufficient to lock the wheel initially. It would pop out of the healthy thread after some riding (or bumps). If that is the case try checking and swapping/replacing the quick release.

  6. Infamous_Air9247 on

    Wrong size wheels. Big tyre. It’s not about wheel dish only. Make sure the bike isn’t for 650b or something weird sized wheels.

  7. Gotta crank the shit out of that QR, if you’re taking off and it pulls the wheel to the frame. Also your gear ratio can also cause undue torque, try starting from a stop with an easier ratio. 

  8. This looks like an 80’s Schwinn World Sport 10 speed with 27 inch rims.

    With the quick release repair, they might have missed something bigger

    Was the wheel removed in a bike repair stand for the fix or was it done on the floor?

    How tight/difficult is the closing of the lever against the frame?

    Can you push the rim right towards the opposite side with the qr lever closed?

    You could have a broken hollow axle that is running on the qr rod

  9. Easy_Purple_5499 on

    Also, some of these older bikes had a guide that clipped into the rear dropout to limit it from setting all the way. I had an old nishiki that had one that I had to source a new one to keep this from happening.

  10. Might be missing a QR skewer spring, sounds crazy but was the solution to a similar issue

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