So I have a steel frame bike that I've been putting some mileage on the last two months.
I'm new to cycling, and as I've been getting fitter, I've been finding myself doing more hill climbs. Obviously what goes up must come down, so I've been doing more descents as a consequence.
The only problem is, I build up momentum too fast, and my brakes don't feel powerful enough to stop me.
They are mechanical Tektro brakes and are adjusted well as far as I can tell.
I am squeezing the leavers hard as I can, and I'm no feeble person. On steeper descents (15-20%) there is absolutely no way the bike will stop if I let it get above about 10mph; The momentum and combined weight is too much.
I do weigh slightly over 100kg, and the bike is about 15kg with attachments.
I've almost been caught out once or twice, letting momentum build up enough that it took several hundred meters to come to a stop. I'd have been done for it a car or other obstacle appeared.
It's got to the point that I'll creep down hills dragging the brake, which I know is terrible for them. I've been avoiding descents due to this.
Is this normal braking behaviour, or how can I make it better? I remember when I was younger on a MTB, that I could stop pretty quickly under pretty much any condition.
by BigSexyWelshman
30 Comments
Remove the brake pads and check how much material is left on them. If it’s all gone you’ll need new brake pads.
If the pads are good you may want to invest in brake adapters. It looks like you have 160mm rotors. You can buy 160mm-180mm adaptors which will shift your callipers to work with larger 180mm rotors. Braking will feel easier after that with less effort required
Obviously you’ll need to buy the larger 180mm rotors if you go with the second option
Absolutely not normal, and not safe. Have you checked the brake pads for wear?
If everything is adjusted properly, the brakes are probably glazed. Sand down the disc and pads with rough sand paper and that should fix it.
Sounds like glazed brakes. Check your brake pads.
Definitely not normal. Try brake cleaner to get rid of any oil or other contaminations and check your brake pads or simply replace them as they’re not expensive.
They are misadjusted, contaminated, or both. When you squeeze the brakes, do the levers to go the bar, or do you feel a (very hard) resistance before? You shouldn’t be able to pull the levers to the bar with any amount of force.
Before investing in new material, ask a LBS to assess the issue. To be honest, these cheap mechanical brakes, -20%, and ~120kg system weight is not a good combination, but they should still be able to stop you reasonably fast.
I recommend upgrading to Trp HY/RD brakes. They used to be expensive until Decathlon starter using them at their bikes and selling them separately as well. Make sure to buy the right version (post or flat mount) and remeber that new pads they will come with, need to be broken in
Things that will likely help.
1) bringing the inner pad in – that looks to me like a single actuation caliper, so adjusting the inner pad closer to the rotor until you hear it contacting then backing off a click will help. You can adjust the outer to the same point.
2) different pad material – sintered or racing pads will have better bite the more heat builds up in the.
3) different rotors – getting an aftermarket upgraded rotor, like a Hope or Magura or even TRP rotors can provide more stopping power.
These are things to try in order of progressive expense. Thicker rotors, like those made by Magura and TRP give you more mass to work with and better mechanical advantage with your caliper.
The really expensive option is to go Hydro, but that’s hundreds of dollars, even used.
I’ll throw this out there, and I’m not sure what brand the brakes are… My girlfriend is about 125-130lbs and I weigh a bit over 200 right now. I work on her bike quite a bit, and I have adjusted/replaced brakes. They stop for her like they should, but if I was on a descent I would be in the same boat as you. They just don’t stop me at all, full fucking grab. If I adjusted them tight enough to stop me they would be dragging the rotor when I was not braking, and then I still wouldn’t have faith in them. I’m sure there’s nicer mechanical discs out there that would absolutely work fine, but not hers. SRAM red mechanical levers and maybe TRP calipers. It’s a 2016 Cannondale.
No one seems to have pointed out that those look like mechanical disk brakes.
If you want more stopping power you should look into hydraulic brakes, they’re not too expensive in the grand scheme of things. Way cheaper than a broken collarbone.
if you fix them they’ll just overheat and glaze over again. You could try different disks and pads, but I wouldn’t spend money replacing the disks and pass without first replacing the brakes.
Imho the airgap in the picture is too big, at 100 kg i would even accept the slightest bit of rubbing due to the disc never running 100% true.
Grapevine says bb7`s are better but generally cable discbrakes are basicly like cantis a headache to set up right.
I had this problem, I am a heavier rider and built up a steel bike. Even with the mechanical disc brake adjusted correctly, I could not stop fast enough while in the hoods (where I ride the majority of time). I could stop relatively easily from the drops, but in an emergency, I didn’t want to need to switch hand positions to not die.
I ended up swapping my brakes to the TRP HY/RDs and oh my god, night and day difference. They are cable actuated hydraulic brakes, which makes it a super easy upgrade! I would highly recommend checking them out
Get hydrolics they are cheap, I have electric bike got hydrolic set for around £30 and on emergency braking I can do a flip. Have cables before, they do streach quick with force and weight, I swap new cables and in about 2 weeks you have no brakes. Get hydrolic or at least look in to bigger disc like 180mm or 220mm. On cleaning side I hear you need to put your disc and pads under fire for quick time to burn off oils, but im not sure about that method I didnt test it. Be safe
I’ve glazed brake pads…. Amazing how quick that can happen. If you aren’t going all “weight weenie”, there is a solid defense for getting a rim brake bike for cheap.
Too small of a disc for cable brakes, switch to rim brakes and have 700c wheel braking surface, which is fine for cables.
Or hydro.
In other news, try not to close your quick release skewer levers against the frame. Whist it may look lovely, it makes them tricky to open when you need to and worse, may limit the travel so they might not be closed up properly when you start riding. Close them into free space, preferably trailing towards the rear of the bike to avoid snagging.
Definitely not right. I have the same brakes and can brake hard using one finger and a light touch. Must be an issue with the pads. Maybe they got degreaser or something on them when you were cleaning your bike?
They also look pretty loose. Maybe it’s me but I would set those closer. Almost that is the rotors was a bit bent you may here a swish at the beginning of the rides. Anything mechanical I would always run super tight. Ive since then switched all bikes to hydro but that point is moot.
Even a glazed pad will still provide a lot of braking force. Typical contamination will make the brakes squeal, but will not greatly diminish braking performance unless everything is literally coated in oil. The only reason for the brakes to almost completely not work at all is a lack of pressure between pads and rotor. For hydraulic brakes, the fluid level is low or there is air in the line. For mechanical brakes, adjust the position of the lever, cable, or both.
Swich to a wider brake and get cooling fin ceramic brake pads.
Rubbing alcohol on the disc, wipe with clean towel/rag, bed them in again. Your could also do the same to the pads just let them dry.
You could have glazed pads , or the pull may be off , but it also could be the fact that mechanical disc brakes , especially basic bottom line ones don’t do the greatest job at stopping . Hell , I have PAUL Klampers on my gravel bike and while they do have pretty good stopping power , it’s nowhere near the GRX hyd brakes on my wife’s bike
You can get larger diameter rotors. The current sizes are 140 (rear only road bike) 160 (std mtb) 180,200,220 (DH racing) Older sizes can be 185, and 203 (still current in some series).
A rear 160mm bracket will be 180mm on the front. The modern brackets are sold +20,+40+60mm.
You can buy a bigger front rotor and a matching adapter bracket to replace the one that’s already there.
Try a 180, and if it isn’t enough get a 200f, and move the 180 to the rear. The size offset gives more even pressure at the levers. Alternate front/rear brakes when controlling speed going downhill so you don’t overheat one end.
A bike shop can do this for you if you’re not skilled.
That will take care of braking power. But if the downhill is longer, then heat buildup becomes a problem.
If the brakes become less effective as you go further down the hill this needs to be addressed.
Metallic brake pads will help, but the rotors must be absolutely clean, or brand new to switch pads. They also require much less frequent adjustment and last much longer.
Shimano offers bimetal rotors that run much cooler (-100*C) Icetech RT-86 in 6 bolt. They can be about $20 each more than normal rotors. They run very smooth and quiet especially on mech. brakes I use them on urban Ebikes. It takes longer to bed in metallic pads with these because they run much cooler.
Finally there are better calipers. Avid BB7 have been around for 30 years now. There’s a reason for that. The ball bearing action gives much better feel (modulation). this is important in slippery conditions. Not cheap, maybe later on? Snip the tab off of the inner pad to use these with Icetechs.
2nd choice would TRP Spyke (mtb) or Spyre (road). They move both pads like hydraulics. But no ball bearings.
If your rotors are compatible try sintered pads. If you’ve been using resin or hybrid pads people will say u need a brand new rotor that’s only been used with sintered. I am also heavy and ride fast so switched to sintered with same rotors and helped a lot but you’ll get best performance on sintered pads with brand new rotors. Sintered are a little louder but work very well for my big ass.
u/BigSexyWelshman
>several hundred meters
so that is at minimum 300 meters or 1000 feet …please provide actual information
Thank you everyone for the advice, I appreciate everyone’s input.
I’ve taken off the discs and pads, cleaned, sanded, and cleaned again.
I’ve adjusted the pads so that there’s no rubbing, but you can barely see a gap between them and the rotor on both sides.
I’ve also adjusted the quick release levers so that they’re not against the frame.
If they’re still not working well, I’ll upgrade to cable actuated hydraulic calipers and a bigger disc.
I’ll bed them in later before seeing how they perform.
Wish me luck!
I had some of these brakes and they were so temperamental. When things were bad, and that happened quickly, it was absolutely terrifying. I ruined a pair of shoes trying to get the bike to stop on a steep hill.
The solution for me was to spend some money. I figured that £100-£150 to stop on demand, every time in all conditions, was worth every penny. I bought TRP Spyre calipers (£50 each from Merlin) and some good brake pads, and after installing them, I spent as long as it took fiddling with the three adjustable elements – cable tension, pad adjuster, barrel adjusters – until they were spot on.
The result – near total confidence in my braking, safer riding and no more arse clenching descents while desperately seeking an open gate or run-off or sloping drive.
No one has mentioned this, so I’ll throw it out there.
Are your brake levers maybe long pull, when those brakes need short pull? That would account for your lack of braking power, and also the way you describe how the brake lever moves all the way to the handlebars. Is this the stock setup, or did you change either the brakes or the levers?
Disc brakes just don’t work that well. It’s the hydraulics that makes them usable. I would put hydraulic brakes on there or at least hy/rd calipers with compressionless cables
I have the same issue with mechanical Tektro brakes (200lbs). Others are saying there is an issue with pads/glazing/etc, but this has been the case since the bike was new. I took it in to LBS to put on compressionless brake housing and adjust the brake system and it barely improved braking performance.
I bought a nice road bike with hydro brakes and have 0 problems stopping. Tektros are just trash and I will never buy another bike with them.
I would doubt the glazed/contaminated pads are causing that level of loss of braking force. If those brakes have an adjusting hex bolt adjust the inner pad as close to the caliper as possible without rubbing. Also adjust the cable tension to the caliper, an easy way to do that is loosen the pinch bolt holding the cable, pull the caliper up towards the engaged position while pulling the cable down with a pair of pliers and then tighten the pinch bolt. This should take the slack out of the cable. Try this one caliper at a time (starting with the front) and see if it fixes your braking.