This bike was given to me by a relative, I haven't owned a bike for 30 years, I need help :))
Tires need replacing (with tubes or without?), chain is rusty (clean or replace?), brakes seem to bite well with good rubber on them.
by Tiger_smash
This bike was given to me by a relative, I haven't owned a bike for 30 years, I need help :))
Tires need replacing (with tubes or without?), chain is rusty (clean or replace?), brakes seem to bite well with good rubber on them.
by Tiger_smash
13 Comments
Everything needs replaced nuts, bolts chain, tires. Just take it to a bike shop.
I somehow doubt that the wheels on this are remotely tubeless-ready. Use tubes.
First you are gonna need to change the chain or clean it, but it might be worn, after check or changing the brake pads, check the inner tube of the tires, maybe they are still working, check the condition of the cables, if they are rusty change them, they are not expensive.
Also check the frame, the seatpost and that the bolts of the wheels are tightened.
Extra: normally I check the bottom bracket and the crankset for safety reasons 🙂
It can be a beautiful bike
Where to start…
I use this general checklist whenever I’m checking out a bike for purchase.
It also applies to inspecting and maintaining a bike you’ve already own.
It will encourage you to go through and become familiar with the major systems on the bicycle.
I recommend viewing Park Tools videos on bicycle maintenance for details on some of this stuff.
GCN also has a lot of good videos on things like bike fit and riding techniques.
Start here:
1) Tires inflated.
2) Rims are true.
3) Spokes aren’t loose.
4) Brakes adjusted and inspected (cables, pads, braking surfaces)
5) Chain clean, lubed and measured for wear.
6) Shifting adjusted properly.
7) Wheel bearings checked for play and friction.
8) Bottom bracket/crank/pedals checked for play and friction.
9) Headset checked for play/friction/indexing.
10) Is the seat post stuck?
11) Is the stem stuck?
12) Is the frame intact and is it true?
13) Does it fit the intended rider?
Good luck.
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to follow up.
I’d be most concerned about what looks to be a quick release on the rear wheel. With that horizontal drop out and single speed, it should be a wheel with nuts to secure it properly
New chain, chainring and maybe rear cog. New tires and tubes. Then check the bottom bracket and headset to see if they are still good and re-grease those or replace bearings. Check hub bearings too and re-grease along with axle. Brakes look decent and as long as the wheels are true and they bite ok then no adjustments needed.
The rust on the bike needs to be looked at by a pro, might just be surface rust but if it’s deeper it could mean the frame is toast.
I don’t know how tight you are on money, how much sentimental value you have in this bike, and how much you intend to ride. My opinion is that you should probably go to Wallmart and buy a new one rather than try to fix this one, it will still be cheaper and more comfortable in the long run, I’m afraid…
Also, is the bike the right size for you?
The crank is going to tear up your ankle. How the chainring is mounted is all wrong. You’ll need to figure out how to fix that before anything else. If you can’t, you’re just wasting time and effort.
Once that’s taken care of, brake pads and probably tires/tubes. Maybe brake cables if the brakes aren’t pulling smoothly. Chain lube. Ride.
The fact the chainring is held on with hardware store bolts concerns me greatly. If those bolts are smaller in diameter than the chainring/crank arm holes, then they will allow the chainring to move subtly, and that movement will break a bolt eventually, and that broken bolt will lead to a sudden tacoing of the chainring.
The chain does NOT need replacing IF each and every link can pivot freely.
What’s wrong with the tires?
The rear brake caliper is set up wrong. The Quick Release is in the open position. Ideally you’d loosen the cable, close the quick release, and then readjust the cable tension.
Do you plan to ride this in an area with very few hills? It is just a single speed. In my area it would be useless.
First up, I’m afraid from a lot of experience this bike is likely to cost you a lot more money than it’s worth, unless you are handy enough to do most of the work yourself. If you’re absolutely committed to keeping it (which I understand, I once went down that road with an early bike, was a big learning experience for me), please first and foremost swap the chain for a new one that isn’t going to snap under load, and swap those bodged-in bolts on the chainring for some proper single-ring chainring bolts, they’re wigging me out! Do you have a bike co-op near you where you could do this and maybe get some help?
Don’t try to DIY this. This is a major project. The rear brake is likely not adjusted properly: its quick-release is wide open. There is a quick-release skewer through the rear axle, rather than standard axle nuts, which make me question how well the rear wheel will keep its position. The drivetrain rust might or might not be worrisome, but needs to be dealt with. It does, however, make me question what else is rusted, particularly bolts. If you can’t tighten/adjust the stem, handlebars, and seat/seatpost, it’s a real problem. The crankset needs proper chainring bolts to keep from chewing up your ankles. And I question whether those brake cables are frayed. If it were mine, I’d be stripping off all of the components, then cleaning them to see if anything needs replacing. I’d be checking the wheels to see if they’re true, properly tensioned, and have proper rim strips in place. I’d replace the cables and housing up front. Likewise with the chain, chainring/bolts, and rear cog (a single-speed conversion of a rear freehub). I’d be taking all of the bolts apart to see if anything is seized up, then cleaning and relubricating everything. I’d be checking and overhauling the hubs as needed. All of this is necessary to ensure that the bicycle is safe to ride at speed.
I’d expect to spend about $300 at a mechanic, plus the cost of replacement parts. Whether this is worth the cost to you, I can’t say.
Step 1.) walk it outside step 2.) find closest road (the big asphalt stretches) 3.) place tires on pavement 4.) sit on bike 5.) push pedals with the underside of your foot 5.) stonkz