Bought this for next to nothing and took it to a bike shop to get serviced (picking up later today). The shop said that it looks like it has been stored stored indoors for a very long time; someone probably put in their garage and forgot about it. They said that I shouldn’t need to replace anything because everything looks functional on it – Just very old.
Every internet search I’ve made on the subject suggests that, due to their age, I should replace some items regardless of their condition (Wheels, Tires, and Cables were typically recommended).
This is my first bike, and I don’t know what I’m doing, but I want to make this as safe and comfortable as possible while maintaining most of the aesthetic. What would you replace on a bike like this, and why?
Also, was 80 dollars a good price for this? Everything is stock from the factory (1984)
by Sea_Helicopter2153
26 Comments
I would not change anything it’s a classic old school design for a great cruise thru a downtown scene 😎
I like replacing things I have contact with, but I think those pedals might still be comfortable. The saddle could be upgraded with a Brooks, and I am a fan of more modern bars/brake levers.
How handy are you? I overhaul every bike I plan to keep for myself with repacked bearings (headset/bb/hubs), new cables/housing, brake pads, tires, chain, bar tape, and saddle, and truing the wheels/adjusting everything. If you’re relying on a shop, it’s not practical for the cost to do it, and I agree that in this condition it’s not strictly necessary, at least upfront. I would at least replace the chain with a SRAM PC-830/850/870 (any of those 3, it’s the best chain for friction-shifted bicycles) and re-tape the bars with something other than those nasty foam tubes. Black cork bar tape would be great. If you have a bit of money, I’d also suggest a Brooks leather saddle, you’ll be a lot more comfortable and actually enjoy riding the bike.
Assuming that the tires are original, it’s probably a good idea to replace them. Check the sidewalls for dry rot (cracks) and definitely replace if you notice any. Aside from that, replacing the brake pads is also recommended as the rubber will harden over time and lose effectiveness.
From what I can see, the foam padding on the bars looks to be in very good shape. If it has hardened, have it replaced with new handlebar tape.
Finally, a bike this old could most certainly benefit from fresh grease in the headset, hubs and bottom bracket. That can be expensive as it involves a lot of disassembly and reassembly.
Good luck and enjoy your new bike!
I’m really surprised they didn’t suggest changing the tires. Maybe they don’t keep 27” tires in stock. That’s probably the only thing I see as obvious.
To make it feel like new you’d change tires, chain and cassette though that bike may not have a cassette per se.
Gorgeous rig
I’d keep it as original as possible, except for the seat I don’t think I could live with that one & put a modern one on
Saddle and bar wraps. Maybe better pedals – something that’s comfy and does not shred shins. Rear shifter cable is rusty, I’d change that one, too.
Those nasty ass foam grips, the saddle and pedals if they aren’t comfortable (flatten out the saddle, if you feel pressure on your taint when it’s level you need a new saddle), tires and brake pads if they’re the originals.
Brakes. Everything else from that era worked pretty well but modern dual pivot brakes are so much better its not even close.
Rear braking cable looks a wee bit worn. It’ll get wet in there and will become tougher to brake.
(Also that couch of saddle!!)
How’s braking? How’s shifting? How does the wheel alignment? Do the tyres hold pressure? How’re the spokes?
You should ride it for a few miles, and some of what needs help may become obvious.
$80 feels solid.
Edit: rear braking cable added.
I think you should put a drop of oil on all the moving parts , (if they move, they’re moving parts, the cables, brake pivots, the derailleurs at all the places they move, the entire chain should get 20 drops of oil along its entire length). Then I’d start riding it. You’ll figure out how much you ride and what’s uncomfortable. All the comments are basically correct, but you may think differently after you ride it. You can get a small bottle of oil at a bike shop for little money. Put a hundred miles on it. See what you think. Brake pads that are hard are ok. They’re not basketball shoes, they don’t stop with “grip” – it’s friction. You’ll know after a few miles if they’re no good. If there are things that crumble due to age, it will be apparent, otherwise, ride it!
So yes, a fine price for that. I just found a late 70s / early 80s Schwinn Continental in the street in similar (mostly stored) condition. Assuming the shop has put it through its paces, if it shifts well-enough, then you don’t need to worry about cables (however DO IT if needed as it’s not expensive and worth it), or chain or any “drive train”-related changes to start.
YES to all the commenters who said any rubber should be considered suspect (tires & brake pads) unless the shop says they are ok, likely NOT.
I second the seasoned DIY person who says lose the foam in the bars, unless it’s in Ok shape (those crumble quick with enough age).
Depending on your “vintage” aesthetic preferences… cork tape.. eh… maybe not? A synthetic padded tape will last longer and ease vibration a bit more.
And Brooks saddle..? I mean sure, very “vintage-y” but not cheap and not for everyone… just FWIW. There are very decent, comfortable saddles out there for $35-40, look for low-end Selle gel.
Worth paying for in spades (and saying to the mechanic up-front when you pick it up) 30 mins of labor cost to have the shop help you get the bike “fitted” to you as best possible. This involves making adjustments, and having you test ride for a minute or two in-between to see what feels best.
This involves, generally:
— adjusting saddle (seat) height, tilt, and front/back position on the “rails” (shop will know what that means)
— Handlebar (stem) height, and angle, and possibly bringing the brake levers back or a little forward accordingly.
*** Proper fit, over many other things, makes for more comfort, control(!) and fun and is maybe, long-term, the most important thing…
And then… ride it!
And ride it some more!
And enjoy it!
The upgrades you may make will depend on wear, but also your own comfort/choices after you’ve spent time on her… it’s YOUR bike. Don’t let others aesthetic preferences dictate what is best for you. I’d argue that it’s about the ride (unless for you, it’s more about the look, no judgement).
If you LOVE that bike, yeah, down the line… 700cc wheels (which could then mean new and better brakes) would be a real upgrade to the feel of the ride, adding responsiveness and some confidence to riding and cornering at speed. Also your tire choices expand infinitely with modern wheels, as 27” wheels are an older diameter with limited tire options.
You have to like the bike to do that though. Otherwise find something else.
My every day ride is a 90s Fuji touring frame with “swept back” (think French/English 3-speed country lane) handlebars for comfort. I love it, and as a look it’s prett common swap these days on vintage frames in a city, as being “on the brake hoods” is not so friendly for banging around.
And sorry, once I starting writing I could not stop until I felt I’d covered most things… lol.
Hope that helps!!!
And rock on 🤘🏼
If you actually want to ride this I would put aluminum rims on it
i recently got this same bike for real cheap. i stripped it and made it a fixed gear. i realize thats not what you’re looking to do, but its currently my favorite fixed gear. solid bike.
New pads, tubes, tires and maybe cables and housing IF needed. This bike is extremely antiquated and it’s bot compatible with most new parts and components. Use as a vintage Sunday ride etc but don’t sink money into it
In this order
1. Brake pads (safety)
2. Brake cables and gear cables (safety)
2. Inner tubes and tyres (reliability)
3. Chain and freewheel (reliability)
4. Wheels, maybe lighter alloy ones. (Speed)
5. Bar tape (comfort)
6. Brake levers (comfort/upgrade)
7. Saddle (if uncomfortable, this may be higher up the list)
Depending on how much you use and like the bike, you may want to stop at a certain point. This bike looks like it uses 27 x 1 1/4 wheels, which are not a modern standard like 700c, so l’m not really going to spend much if it was me. This is because 27 x 1 1/4 will probably disappear at some point, so already there is a limited choice of tyres out there for that size.
Here’s what you need to do:
1. Replace brake pads: Kool-Stop Salmon Road Brake Pads (from Amazon or other).
2. Replace Tires and tubes: 27″ x 1-1/4″ tires or even better I like 27″ x 1″ tires, 27″ tubes (I like Kenda tires, you can buy on Amazon, 90 psi).
3. Replace brake and shifter cables: I just use the ones you can get at Walmart.
4. Grease the axels and crank bearings with lithium marine grease (also from Walmart).
5. Clean the chain with degreaser, then re-lube with WD-40 or some bicycle chain lube from Walmart.
6. Spray the rear freewheel and derailleur with WD-40.
7. Adjust the brake cables.
8. Leave the foam handle bar wrap, it’s super comfortable!
Total, maybe $75 give or take…
…and Voila! It will ride new, like you just rode it off the show room floor!!
Ugh I’m sorry but you kinda overpaid. This is a $25 bike. Steel rims and low-end parts.Steel rims for one thing are not safe when you’re braking in the rain.
To upgrade to some decent 700c alloy rims would be better accomplished by finding another newer lighter better-working bike in your local classifieds for $50. And then riding that one instead and using this bike to learn bike mechanics on.
I see aluminum-frame Treks and Raleighs and Giants and even Cannondales for cheap all the time. I just paid $70 for a Cannondale MTB in almost new shape I found on Craigslist not long ago.
Are you primarily looking for performance or safety?
Safety: tubes, tires, brake pads, chain, and a tune-up by a professional
Performance: Clip-on pedals, aluminum wheels, lighter seat
My spare bike is a 40-year old Fuji that I’ve continually upgraded over the years. No where near original but it’s functionally better than the original.
$80 was a little high, you’ll spend another $50 on new rubber. Tires and tubes. Hopefully cables are not rusted, or you’ll replace them too. Another $50 or for 40 year old bike that was almost certainly less than $180 new. That being said, it’s probably a little better than a current $200 bike. So it’s probably right on the money.
Take your savings and buy yourself a helmet before you start riding.
Tubes, tires, cables, break pads.
Brake pads, but only if you want to stop.
Replace the chain. Check the freewheel and chainrings.
Treat any rust on the frame.
Pedals if they’re gritty in the cones and cups. Or repack with fresh grease.
Grease in the headset, bottom bracket, and hubs.
Regrease the stem/headset tube to protect against seizing.
If you are replacing handlebar tape and brake cables, consider changing brake housing and adding “cross brakes.” Cross brakes are an extra set of brake levers that allow you to brake from the flat part of the bars. They’re cheap and not hard to install. They add a completely different hand position with full braking control, and this allows you to stay on the bike for longer.
All of that sounds like a lot, but if you do them on one by one you’ll have a bike that’s ready to stay with you for life. Those old steel frames are great.
I have this same bike in the same color. I put red tape on mine though otherwise everything is as is.
Cables, housings, tires, brake pads, and grease. Check your chain and gears for wear and stretch, replace if need be. And good luck if the bushings in your brakes or levers are worn out, for some reason even though they’re a maintenance part there’s no support there.
Good news is that they’re a simple shape you can get 3d printed, bad news is that while the calipers and levers might still be in production they cost as much as modern tech parts.
I put a new groupset on mine Shimano 105s when you could still get them at half the US price by ordering from Chain Reaction in the UK before the US dealers forced Shimano to close the loophole. I’d probably just do SRAM now.
That and some new wheels, brakes, and it’s a pretty nice bike now tbh.
tires, brake pads, cables and cable housing are pretty standard. see if they have more cable housing colors than just black — they sell silver and red cable housing that would look so good on this. those are the essential make-this-safe services. they should probably just replace the chain, that’ll take less work than cleaning the existing one and won’t be expensive.
you should also remove the seat/seatpost, clean off any old grease from the seat post and seat tube, and re-install it. seatposts sometimes get stuck on older frames like this if they’re not greased. shop can do this but you can too.
other commenters have pointed this out too, but you should consider more extensive work — mostly cleaning out all the old grease and repacking it. this will make riding better overall. this means:
* cleaning and re-greasing the headset
* cleaning and re-greasing the bottom bracket, and installing a new one if the current one is pitted or worn out
* cleaning and re-greasing the hubs
this more extensive work can wait for a bit. but it should be done at some point. winter is perfect for this, in fact, when shops are slower.