Cycling 2750km from Belgium to Spain (Ep. 14)

All Music by “Under the Skin”: https://open.spotify.com/artist/0AvLxd0MOteC026aTgu8KX
Intro music by NRA lab, Audio File ID: 119647
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We wake beneath a sky brushed in soft pink, savoring the quiet before the rain inevitably finds us. Our journey begins past Château Millet, a grand estate rooted in medieval history, its vineyards stretching over rolling hills where Graves wines have been made for centuries. The clouds gather, dark and heavy, yet miraculously, the storm keeps its distance—leaving us only with the sight of a distant rainbow.

Later, a stop at a small bakery rewards us with pistachio and chocolate pastries, a welcome comfort in the cold, damp air. But as we ride into Les Landes de Gascogne, the beauty of the open heathland hides a haunting truth—two years ago, this was a forest.

In the summer of 2022, one of the most devastating wildfires in France’s history tore through this land, consuming over 75,000 hectares of woodland. Flames raged for weeks, forcing thousands to flee while exhausted firefighters fought to contain the inferno. Even now, we pass ghostly blackened trees standing near houses that barely escaped destruction. At a small roadside memorial, we pause—letting the weight of it all settle. The land is still burning, we read. Underground, unseen, the fire continues to smolder, devouring what little remains.

We press on, following long, unbroken roads where, for now, the forest still stands. But the storm we have been outrunning for weeks is finally catching up. Tomorrow, there’s no escaping the rain.

With the Pyrenees looming ahead, we face a choice—do we brave the mountains under these relentless skies, or change course toward the coast? For tonight, we seek shelter. A small cabin will offer us a dry morning, a rare luxury. More importantly, it will give us time—to unfold the map, to weigh our options, and to decide whether ambition or caution should guide our path forward.