No. If it was trail side and an emergency you could smack it against a stump but this is obviously not trail side or an emergency so you need a new wheel. Aluminum can’t be bent like that and retain its integrity.
bdidz1 on
Possible.. looks severe. I’d double check the joint on the rim, I’d guess it’s separating. The juice is not worth the squeeze on this one. IMO
I’ve had them pop back, but it’s rare. They also will most likely do it again
couchwjr on
As art work. Hang it on the wall and get a new set of wheels
TheGreatOtakuMaster on
It’s a pringle wheel!
Delinquentbyassoc on
The Classic Taco
Max_Rower on
Forget the rim and, probably, the spokes. Use the rest to build a new wheel.
spyro66 on
Can’t hurt to try, want to learn how to true a wheel? You’ve got nothing to lose… aside from time.
Before you start, inspect the rim for any cracks (around the spoke nipples, in the sides, etc) or any big dings, or any separation at the rim joint. There’s no use fixing the big issue and then finding another crippling issue later.
Start by de-tensioning everything – loosen off each nipple by about 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn each time, just going around and around the wheel. Nipples loosen as if you’ve got a screwdriver turning them from the end of the spoke, like through the tire, so it feels a bit backwards when you’re using a spoke wrench.
Keep going until the spokes rattle. Only do 1/4 turn each time (there’s a couple reasons – you avoid doing further damage by unbalancing the wheel even more, but also just because of ergonomics; you don’t have to take your fingers off the wrench), start at the valve hole, it’ll probably take you 3-4 trips around the wheel to get everything de-tensioned.
If you’re lucky, at this point, the rim will have sprung back to *mostly* straight. It’s ok if it’s not perfect, but it should be significantly better than it is now. Inspect it again, to see if any new issues have appeared.
Now you get to re-tension your wheel, slowly but surely. Look up some YouTube videos, that will illustrate it more clearly than I can explain in text. I’ll see if I can find a good one.
Mech0_0Engineer on
Yes I did (aluminium rim), still good to go for commuting and riding lightly on dirt paths (no roots and drops etc.) but I won’t push that rim much. I’m still trying to find a good wheelset for my bike and until I can, I dont have any other option than using this for commuting.
(also we fixed this roughly by pushing it against a tree and hitting the rim on the ground on the tire, not on the rim itself and then truing it)
Also make sure the rim doesnt have any cracks on it after truing it, cracks are definitely not safe to ride after this kind of bend, if there arent any cracks, it will be good to use lightly for commuting etc. until you can get a new wheel
10 Comments
No. If it was trail side and an emergency you could smack it against a stump but this is obviously not trail side or an emergency so you need a new wheel. Aluminum can’t be bent like that and retain its integrity.
Possible.. looks severe. I’d double check the joint on the rim, I’d guess it’s separating. The juice is not worth the squeeze on this one. IMO
I’ve had them pop back, but it’s rare. They also will most likely do it again
As art work. Hang it on the wall and get a new set of wheels
It’s a pringle wheel!
The Classic Taco
Forget the rim and, probably, the spokes. Use the rest to build a new wheel.
Can’t hurt to try, want to learn how to true a wheel? You’ve got nothing to lose… aside from time.
Before you start, inspect the rim for any cracks (around the spoke nipples, in the sides, etc) or any big dings, or any separation at the rim joint. There’s no use fixing the big issue and then finding another crippling issue later.
Start by de-tensioning everything – loosen off each nipple by about 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn each time, just going around and around the wheel. Nipples loosen as if you’ve got a screwdriver turning them from the end of the spoke, like through the tire, so it feels a bit backwards when you’re using a spoke wrench.
Keep going until the spokes rattle. Only do 1/4 turn each time (there’s a couple reasons – you avoid doing further damage by unbalancing the wheel even more, but also just because of ergonomics; you don’t have to take your fingers off the wrench), start at the valve hole, it’ll probably take you 3-4 trips around the wheel to get everything de-tensioned.
If you’re lucky, at this point, the rim will have sprung back to *mostly* straight. It’s ok if it’s not perfect, but it should be significantly better than it is now. Inspect it again, to see if any new issues have appeared.
Now you get to re-tension your wheel, slowly but surely. Look up some YouTube videos, that will illustrate it more clearly than I can explain in text. I’ll see if I can find a good one.
Yes I did (aluminium rim), still good to go for commuting and riding lightly on dirt paths (no roots and drops etc.) but I won’t push that rim much. I’m still trying to find a good wheelset for my bike and until I can, I dont have any other option than using this for commuting.
(also we fixed this roughly by pushing it against a tree and hitting the rim on the ground on the tire, not on the rim itself and then truing it)
Also make sure the rim doesnt have any cracks on it after truing it, cracks are definitely not safe to ride after this kind of bend, if there arent any cracks, it will be good to use lightly for commuting etc. until you can get a new wheel
https://preview.redd.it/59uu1jeukjoe1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=c66c5c06eefd0cdcf8311f4a0e4c1224f61db6a7
Just need a couple turns with a spoke wrench and she’ll be solid
in all my years cycling ive never buckled a wheel that bad