Hello all,
Thinking of upgrading this steel bike and actually using it lol.
However, I am not adept with bike parts, but I would like to transition to a 2×10 or 2×11 speed group set.
I intend to keep the 53t/42t 170mm campagnolo victory crankset, but the 7 speed gotta go.
From wheel base to the lowest cog there’s about 38mm space. Also hoping to keep the original wheels since they are no where to be found in my area.
My front wheel has a quick release skewer or if I’m better off with something similar to what is there, what size would I need for the rear to support 10/speeds?
Is there a way to make this work with this bike?
This is just a franken-bike I want to mess with lol.
I really just want to change the drive train/rear wheel components to be honest.
Then once parts are considered good, I’ll paint her up!
Any suggestions por favor?
by Hanaldulce93
3 Comments
Those wheels have steel rims and a 7-speed cluster. Guessing it’s a freeewheel. If so, impossible to upgrade to a 10 or 11 speed cogset. Instead, you need a wheelset that takes a freehub that is compatible with whatevrer 10 or 11 speed cogset you want.
>From wheel base to the lowest cog there’s about 38mm space.
That doesn’t matter. Modern wheels with freehubs require a 130mm distance between the frame’s rear dropout. Since your bike is steel and likely 126mm, you can just force the modern wheel in there. But I suggest cold-setting it to make a permanent change from 126mm to 130mm.
>Any suggestions por favor?
I personally wouldn’t spend much money or time on that Le Tour. Plenty of much higher quality frames from that era. So I’d just sell it and buy an 80s Japanese frameset made from double or triple butted tubes. They’re pretty cheap.
Ok, so before you do anything else, fix that rear brake! I’m guessing it was a centrepull brake that you decided to upgrade. The outer cable needs to run all the way to the brake.
Are you trying to keep that rear wheel or not? I can’t really tell and talking about the front wheel at the same time makes it more confusing.
I can’t really tell but I think thats a freewheel so you’re realistically limited to 7/8 speed using that rear wheel.
If you want to change the rear wheel to get more speeds, you’ll need to take the rear wheel off and measure the gap between the dropouts. 126mm used to be a standard back then, you can ‘spring’ that to 130mm but if you need to go to 135mm should probably get a shop to cold set the frame.
This has already been significantly upgraded.
Your biggest limitation is the rear dropouts, which pretty much demand a bolted rear axle.
I don’t think there’s much value in pushing this antique (70’s makes it nearly 50 years old) further.