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The past few years have been rough, so much so that I attempted suicide in spring 2022. Since I was a kid I’ve always loved to travel, especially just “being on the road”. Recently I had my first long vacation since the pandemic started. I did a solo bikepacking trip from Denmark to the Netherlands over EuroVelo Routes 10 and 12, following Baltic and North Sea coasts. Not counting 1-2 day tours, this was only my second bikepacking trip ever, after my bike trip to Santiago de Compostela with my grandmother when I was 17. I’m now 42. She passed away this year.
I did this tour to find myself again, experience a lust for life again, and also to honor my grandmother. I was anxious that I would feel lonely and would regret my choice, but it turned out to be one of my best vacations ever. It changed me for the better. It got me hooked.
The absolute highlight was when I stumbled upon a church in the town where I booked accommodation after my first day of biking. The side door was open so I entered. I was there alone. The evening sun was shining through a back window towards a door in the front of the church. When I approached it, this beautiful balcony and vista of the sea emerged in front of my eyes. I felt utter gratitude in that moment. This feeling has stuck with me since.
I almost never do stuff without friends but for this trip it was the absolute right choice. I did have quite some social contact on the way but my moments of wonder were almost always entirely for me alone. Also I become anxious if there’s no clear travel plan, but I forced myself to book accommodation a mere day ahead of time. I just knew which routes I wanted to follow (more or less). Turns out this all went surprisingly well and gave me much needed flexibility.
I did 447km in 4,5 days from Copenhagen (DK) to Lubeck (DE), where I took the train to Hamburg to rest one day and took a second train to Bremen (DE), where I started a 420km trip to Groningen (NL) in another 4 days. The German part (excluding the cities) was the least exciting and the often most confusing and dangerous to bike. Still I don’t regret even 1km of the trip. It feels like the unpleasant bits are as much part of the experience as the pleasant ones. It makes the end feel “earned” if you catch my drift.
I lost three spokes along the way but got help where needed. I managed to never really panic even with some body, bike and battery issues at the end of a long day (though staying calm took effort). And being solo I connected to strangers much more easily. Especially in the Netherlands and Denmark.
I feel like I was gone for a month instead of a fortnight because I had so many new impressions. I miss it already. I want to find another (established) route for a second solo trip but I hesitate about taking my tent or stick to booking hostels, bnbs, etc. I also think I need to redistribute a bit of the weight of my bags to the front but not sure how. And maybe get more handy in fixing my bike (I only know how to repair or replace a punctured tire).
Any recognizable emotions, any tips or strategies?
by Beijaflor81
1 Comment
I have done some parts of that route myself, also solo, also with only a vague plan ahead and I too had an amazing time.
I absolutely understand all the points you make – the solitude being a revitalising thing, the kindness of strangers when travelling solo, the desire to get back out on the road and the way time seems to pass both faster and slower at the same time when out on the bike.
For me, carrying a tent and being fully self supported only adds to these feelings and to the freedom of that lifestyle. Knowing that you can’t get lost because you have no destination and can stop wherever you find yourself at the end of the day is a freedom like no other I’ve ever experienced.
Its addictive!
If you enjoyed Denmark I can definitely recommend Sweden. The south is very similar to Denmark and very popular with cyclists. Wild camping is legal and there is a pretty good network of free camp shelters. It is a little more wild if you head north but still very accessible with lots of towns for resupply.
Don’t worry too much about finding named routes. Get yourself on [opencyclemap.org](https://www.opencyclemap.org/) and look for the highlighted roads. You’ll see all the EuroVelo ones marked but also national and regional routes as well.
Now you have the bug the world is your oyster, enjoy it and good luck!