I picked up an old Roo that was sitting in someone’s garage for $100.
At this point, after trying WD40, PB Blaster, allens, my impact driver, and several impromptu cursewords, I can’t even budge the old clip pedals- either of them.
How do you break these free??
by rularendition
31 Comments
thats the left side. it unscrews righty-loosey
Lefty tighty
normally the next step would be heat. Start gentle like a soldering pen on the head of the fastener. Then move up to butane then propane then MAPP then oxy acetalyne.
In this case, turn it the other way.
You have to BACK OFF pedals. You always turn the wrench from upright towards the back of the bike to get them off. So, are you accidentally tightening the pedal?
Always turn towards the rear. Use heat and melt a crayon so it seeps into the threads. Worked for me anyways.
I had a set of 105s that was taking off to put speedplays on. I had one that was so rusted in (I had used washers to increase my q-factor and they locked them to the crank arm) that it took disassembling the pedal, taking the crank arm off, grinding the spindle flat so that a bench vice could grab onto it and using a pipe on the crank arm. Prior to that, I broke my allen bit trying to knock it loose. I soaked it in triflow, used spray lubricant, the works.
Lol! Reply All:
Can’t edit- I do know my Lefty Loosy! Just took a picture for the interwebs. Both sides are completely frozen.
You might need more torque than you’re getting out of that multi tool. Do you have access to a longer handled wrench?
Take it to an auto shop and have them use the air impact on it, it will come loose or it will explode
Just make sure they know about the backwards threading
Take it to a shop and have them do it.
Maybe a pedal wrench? Pedros makes a nice one.
A pedal wrench would likely get those right off. If you don’t want to invest in one, I’m sure your nearest LBS can pop those off in a jiffy.
As others have said, turning towards the rear as these are threaded deliberately so they don’t work loose from pedalling. Also, if you’ve started to round the Allen and can’t get purchase anymore, it looks like there are flats on the pedal side too (black boss on pedal side of the crank). It looks quite deep so you may be able to get a proper spanner on there, rotate the cranks to around 8 o clock and go for it. You can also chain spanners if you need, just be careful not to slip off and loose your knuckle skin!
Like others have said – get on it with a longer wrench. If that doesn’t work I’ve had success removing the cranks, placing the crank arm in my bench vise (wrapped with a shop rag to prevent scratches), and then hauling on it with my longest Allen wrench
We’re all having fun here but let’s not downvote OP for asking for help when they came across a problem they didn’t understand.
https://preview.redd.it/yfwpnawh25ne1.jpeg?width=1078&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=424fae02569cd79bec90d89ca04c00fabbf2eeb0
the way I keep pedals straight in my head is that you tighten towards the front of the bike and loosen towards the rear
if you’re having trouble with these pedals, consider removing the cranks and then clamping them into a vice grip or something
Seafoam deep creep
You will break that multi tool before you get pedals off.
You need a full size wrench. And not even your typical hex key you’d have at the work bench. You might need a socket and breaker bar.
A lot of pedals no longer have wrench flats but the fact a pedal wrench is 14” should give you a clue.
User handles wrench and then try to find a Long Bar that you could put over the wrench probably over three to four feet long to give you more leverage that will make it a lot easier to loosen. But first put penetrating oil or WD-40 or whatever you can find and let it sit for a couple of days and just keep putting more oil then hit it with the wrench
Take out the crank arm and put her in a bench press
Leverage… lots of leverage
OP, you can buy a cheap 1/2” breaker bar on Amazon (for $13.59 found a 15” Aiourx brand breaker bar and for $13.99 I found a 16 pc hex socket set from Sedy that includes a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter). You’ll probably need a breaker bar, OP… and for less than $28 for the bar and an entire hex set with magnetic rail and adapter, it’s a decent investment.
Heat the cranks and turn the spindles before they get warm . Alloy will expand faster than steel.
if it doesn’t turn give it another squirt of PB and try again with the heat after everything has cooled to equilibrium.
E: A soft flame like a tea candle or BBQ lighter is all you need.
in the past I have had good luck with stuck pedals using a hammer and a 15(iirc) spanner and a mallet. might be placebo effect but felt like it had more oomph than an electric impact.
1. Use a wrench instead
2. Use a wrench and Allen key simultaneously
3. If you have a bench vise lift the bike and put the opposite crank arm in the vise. Wrap in cloth to prevent scratches.
You should have safety glasses beyond this point
4. Hammer the wrench while applying intense pressure to the wrench and Allen key. Try using your impact driver too.
5. Using a heat gun (or hair dryer) apply gentle heat to the crank arm around the pedal bolt. When hot repeat #4. Try not to heat the pedal bolt.
Approaching possible damage
6. Use more intense heat from a torch. A handheld propane torch should work. Careful not to overheat the aluminum crank arm.
When I broke free the pedals of a decathlon new bike I used a long tool and It smelled like something has burnt!!
pedal wrench or correctly sized open ended wrench between the pedal and the crank.
Everything loosens by pulling the wrench towards the back tire.
I have found getting the wrench in about the 2-3 o’clock position and whacking it with a rubber mallet products good results most of the time.
Try an impact driver before applying any flames. And a day of penetrating fluid.
Up and out. You definitely need something longer though.
Maybe try drilling them out. When i got my bike, the clipless were seized so tight the LBS had to drill them out and then retap the threads in the crank.